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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Van Veen

    Van Veen Well-Known Member

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    Nerdo Crombezia
    Other than Pantherella, what are some good brands of dress socks?
     
  2. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    7,379
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    Aug 16, 2012
    I used to know someone called Van Veen...anyway, I digress: personally, although I like the look of Pantherella, I'd never buy them because their over-the-calf socks are all mixed fibres. I will only wear over-the-calf socks with a suit, and only pure cotton or pure wool in general. Pantharella does not have that combination

    But if you click here, you will find others that do, in my personal SF sock guide for gentlemen.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  3. Van Veen

    Van Veen Well-Known Member

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    Are the "Niemen Marcus" branded ties sold at NM Last Call an outlet brand or the same ties sold in the main store? (I hate when they do this "compare to" BS since you don't know if that's the original price or just some made up number to make it look like you're getting a deal.)
     
  4. Veremund

    Veremund Well-Known Member

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    Frankfurt, Germany
    

    Good god no! You are a between a regular and even a short. I'm also 5'10" and wear both.
     
  5. Veremund

    Veremund Well-Known Member

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    Frankfurt, Germany
    

    No, MTM and bespoke are hardly necessary. But all jackets do need to be altered a bit. Sleeves shortened and jacket nipped in at waist. Actually, you and I have the same measurements.
     
  6. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    Sep 18, 2007
    

    Marcoliani. I think they are better than Pantherella in fit. You don't have to buy their wild colors and patterns. They also make some simple, elegant patterns in classic colors. If you really want a treat buy a pair of their "Light Cashmere". They are ture luxury.

    http://www.oconnellsclothing.com/manufacturers.php?manufacturerid=5&page=1
     
  7. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    You can usually tell that most of the merchandise loaded into Last Call is made for the outlet. It is obvious when you see a lot of the same cut, fabric, style with similar labels. Manufacturers produce these "closeouts" to order so that they aren't even closeouts at all. To make margins they often cut corners in quality. However, you can find the one-off item that didn't sell at regular retail. They are in there but it is a snipe hunt.
     
  8. WSGII

    WSGII New Member

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    Aug 11, 2013
    Location:
    DC
    I would say so I'm afraid-although I too am a beginner, so what do I know! Ideally I would go for either a less obvious boot cut, or just have them tailored a bit. I've had this problem in the past from several brands, most noticably bonobos. If you have the extra cash, my favorite is Grown & Sewn, but if your on a budget, just go with a tailor (the pant's look great otherwise).
     
  9. Julian Wilson

    Julian Wilson Member

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    Aug 31, 2013
    Thanks for the advice.

    Yeah, the problem is it's not a boot-cut. It's straight-slim. How much would it cost to get them tailored?

    Julian
     
  10. kayhill

    kayhill Well-Known Member

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    Jul 19, 2013
    Location:
    Australia
    I thought your concern was that the pants were flushing out too much? Not sure what that means exactly, but I'm guessing you'd like the pant legs to taper in as they come down to the hem?

    A boot cut flairs out towards the bottom.
     
  11. OCMichael

    OCMichael New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    Sep 1, 2013
    Advice on style: degree of tapering

    Any feedback is very much appreciated. I just had this sport coat (Hickey Freeman) tailored. Is the taper too much on this jacket? I’m fairly conservative, late 40’s if that makes any difference.

    Thanks

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  12. Veremund

    Veremund Well-Known Member

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    Frankfurt, Germany
    

    No, the tapering is perfect. But the sleeve are too long; a quarter to a half of shirt sleeve needs to be visible.

    And get your hands out of your pockets. :D
     
  13. Sprezziamo

    Sprezziamo Well-Known Member

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    Jul 11, 2013
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    Milan
    +1

    Even though I see some sort of incoherence between the jacket's waist and and the sleeves' width.

    Nothing too bad though, it just makes it more obvious that the jacket has been tapered. (And you probably might try to size down next time, and/or go for a different cut or a higher drop value)
     
  14. Kenneth Cole Haan

    Kenneth Cole Haan Well-Known Member

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    434
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    Jul 9, 2010
    Does Crockett & Jones make these Peal & Co, and are they worth the $650? They look benchgrade. Worth it at this price point? What about if they hit me with one of those "40% off one item" coupons again?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2013
  15. WSGII

    WSGII New Member

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    Aug 11, 2013
    Location:
    DC
    I've been quoted anywhere from $10-30. Goodluck!
     
  16. OCMichael

    OCMichael New Member

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    Sep 1, 2013
    Thanks for the feedback. I can see the incoherence with the sleeves and the length issue. I always thought I was fairly standard, 5'10", 44" chest and 33" waist, but a 44R always seem too big and a 44S too small. A 42 does't allow for movement.

    I'll look for a different cut or higher drop value... and keep the hands out of the pockets :)

    Many thanks
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2013
  17. Julian Wilson

    Julian Wilson Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 31, 2013
    

    Yes, I'm unsure if they flair out too much. I've been told that slim all the way down is more of a trend, but I'm looking for more opinions. If I end up deciding to close it in a bit at the hem, how much would it cost? It's 14 inches all around right now. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks a lot.
     
  18. hennree

    hennree Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 29, 2012
    Location:
    England
    Anyone recommend a good reasonably priced place for MTM suits in the Cambridge (UK) area?

    ...or a tailor?

    Thank you
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2013
  19. JHT652

    JHT652 Well-Known Member

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    376
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    Jul 20, 2013
    Location:
    North Yorkshire, UK
    

    Is this ok? Or should I go with a lighter shirt? Thanks
    [​IMG]
     
  20. danielqtaylor

    danielqtaylor New Member

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    Aug 31, 2013
    [[I mistakenly posted this as a standalone to the forum rather than here where it belongs, mods can you please delete that separate standalone thread?]] [Note: I am having difficulty with the SF text formatting across multiple browsers on my ancient system, and cannot get line breaks to appear, so apologies for the Wall o' Text below!] Greetings Gentlemen,

    I took an expensive Italian suit jacket into the tailor the other day for shortening. It seems that in order to get it short enough for a reasonably proper fit, he will have to remove the bottom button (of four) and the stitching for the faux buttonhole; he cannot say, however, if there will be traces of the faux hole left until after the stitching is removed (the fabric is a very light wool, but I am concerned that such traces may indeed remain, marring the appearance of an otherwise splendid jacket). There is also the matter of my unequal arm lengths (over 1/2" difference, apparently), but to factor this in if the alteration is being done at the sleeve bottom obviously complicates things enormously, as then there would be a rather obvious inequality of distance from the bottom button to the sleeve end between one arm and the other. (I should add that the tailor also mentioned simply removing all the buttons and their faux buttonholes, but again could not guarantee that marks would not be left...)

    The atmosphere at the tailor was rather tense, as I felt unsure of which way to proceed, and whenever I asked for his advice or suggestion, he would respond that he didn't know, that "*you* have to decide." When I asked what the response of other customers was to similar alterations, he said he didn't know, "they didn't tell me" (English is not his first language, and he does not seem to be an overly outgoing type, so I don't think he is too often engaging in feedback-seeking conversation with his English-speaking clientele). So I continued to ask questions and to silently consider my predicament, eventually him saying something along the lines of his losing money with the time all these back-and-forth considerations take. Still unsure of what to do, but at that point -- having already spent +-20 minutes in the shop -- I committed to plan A which was to make the arms equal lengths, with one button and faux buttonhole removed on each sleeve. The jacket is at the tailor's, pinned/chalked, to be worked on later this week.

    But... I am still concerned about those faux buttonholes leaving traces, the unequal arm length issue, and the tailor's seeming lack of interest in achieving the best possible outcome, throwing all decision-making responsibility onto me (I would think that someone who had decades of experience in a certain field would be able to offer observations on the optimal manner of proceeding, and indeed would be happy to do so). And although he did volunteer, unasked, to check my arm lengths and to make the sleeves unequal, he never suggested altering at the shoulder (which is also a job I would be concerned about, as this is a pinstripe jacket and I have had a bad experience in the past with a major alteration done to a pinstripe jacket where the pinstripes ended up noticeably asymmetrical between sides).

    So, given the above, what do I do? Let him proceed, and hope for the best? Head back there before he cuts away, and reclaim the jacket (giving him $10 for his wasted time) to further ponder my best course of action?

    And just how likely is it that the removed stitching of the faux buttonhole will be noticeable on this light wool jacket? (If it's likely not going to be noticeable, I would probably opt to simply have all the buttons and their faux holes removed and then have the sleeves shortened unequally at the bottom.) Have any of you had this done and regretted it? Were you ever able to wear the jacket again?

    Thanking you in advance for your replies, Dan
     

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