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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,806
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    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    I'm asking this feeling like I already know the answer...

    I picked up a RLBL navy linen blazer online in my usual size and sleeves need to be shortened a touch, shoulders fit well, but the chest is a bit snug and constricting. When I lift my arms outward, the lapels bow outward, etc.

    Can that be altered by a good tailor or is it either too costly or too labor intensive and risking throwing off the balance of the jacket overall?
     
  2. rudals1281

    rudals1281 Senior member

    Messages:
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    May 15, 2012
    I have 2 RLBL and believe that is one of the distinct features of RLBL suits. I think the cost will be a bit high to fix that. What size are you?
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2013
  3. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,806
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    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    

    40R almost always - 40L once in a great while
     
  4. rudals1281

    rudals1281 Senior member

    Messages:
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    May 15, 2012
    RLBL is a bit weird. I also am 40R (only with RLBL) and because they're DROP 7, I had to have the pants tailored to 31/32. The jacket fit me perfect but it is a bit tight around the armpit area and so it would cause the shirt to bunch up there. I really suggest against going with the sports jacket. Will be some work that will cost $$$.
     
  5. TM79

    TM79 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Boston
    Bout how much would you guess? I got it at a deep discount and if the results will be good I don't mind paying for it.

    I have access to an excellent tailor who does bespoke work in my city.

    I'll be bringing him the jacket but I can't until next week - that's the only reason I'm asking how much you think it could cost instead of just waiting for him to tell me.
     
  6. rudals1281

    rudals1281 Senior member

    Messages:
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    May 15, 2012
    I think there is a TAILOR section in SF where they can give you better advice. Take a pic and see what they say. Hope the discount was very good.
     
  7. theh00d

    theh00d Senior member

    Messages:
    270
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2012
    Location:
    Bay Area
    Looking for sizing advice in Charles Tyrwhitt Extra slim fit shirts
    I'm 5'8 and 135-138lb for reference
    XS in uniqlo slim fit oxford
    What size would I be?

    Thanks
     
  8. minervau

    minervau Senior member

    Messages:
    284
    Joined:
    May 6, 2010
    

    I'd guess 15/32 or possibly a 14.5/32 or thereabouts. I am 5'8" 150 and wear a 15.5/32, for reference.

    In previous shirt brands, what have your neck and sleeve length measurements been?

    The thing to keep in mind with shirt measurements (perhaps this is just stating the obvious) is that the neck has to fit, and the sleeve length is pegged to the length of your arms, so those are the only two dimensions that you need to know. Whether the shirt fits your body or not is a product of the maker's cut and cannot be fixed by dropping to a different size of neck or sleeve, since those will just fit you wrong in those two elements.

    My suggestion is to buy one shirt with a neck and sleeve length that is right for you, and hope it fits well. I've found that Tyrwhitt ESF is slimmer fitting than Brooks ESF, for what it's worth, and a more athletic cut (more drop between chest and waist). If you are skinny-skinny with relatively little drop, then Brooks ESF may actually be better.
     
  9. TheBeggar

    TheBeggar New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    Aug 6, 2013
    Could somebody recommend some dress shoes that meet the following criteria:

    Medium to high quality leather
    Available in a wider fit (E/G American/UK)
    Average to rounded toe (not pointed)
    Classic dress shoe styling
    Quality blake stitching
    Thinner than average soles


    I love the quality and fit of English shoes, but I want to find a sleeker sole without the welt in the $300-600 range. Can somebody give me some direction?
     
  10. Halifax

    Halifax Senior member

    Messages:
    222
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2013
    Location:
    Illinois
    Hi SF,

    Does anyone know if Tramps Tailor OP and Art's Tailor Thaniya in Bangkok have a contact email? If so, would you be willing to supply me their details? It looks like I'll have a tight schedule in Bangkok, just over a week, and I would like to make contact with them before I travel.

    Cheers
     
  11. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

    Messages:
    4,642
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    Jan 19, 2010
    Location:
    DCish
    
    They're fine, keep wearing them. What you have there is a channeled sole, where a small cut is made for the stitching holding the sole to the welt, and then glued shut again after the stitching goes in. As the sole wears, the channel often opens up and exposes the stitching- nothing to worry about, just part of the expected life of that sole. Get a resole when you're close to wearing a hole in the sole- if you push on the middle, it'll depress really easily.
     
  12. michaelyork

    michaelyork Senior member

    Messages:
    205
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2012
    Just a quick question---what do you think would be the reasonable price of a Jack victor (Saks house brand) cashmere sportcoat, size 46L, 2nd hand but no signs of wear at all if worn at all, but from 2007? the style hasn't really changed from 2007
     
  13. backtaro

    backtaro Senior member

    Messages:
    235
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Anybody have experience on Billy Reid OCBD in term of quality and fit?
     
  14. dragulievic

    dragulievic Active Member

    Messages:
    36
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2013
    Hi there,
    I just bought this light summer jacket recently. Unfortunately it does not have any label in the inside at all.
    There is a "Made in Italy" label on the neck from the inside. The only thing which might help to identify the jacket is a small, hand written label, which I found in the inside pocket (see pic). Does anyone have a guess what it might be? Is it possible that the jacket comes from a small tailor´s shop? I don´t even know what the material is, I guess it is either canvas or linen but it is quite soft. Actually it looks pretty high quality and I would wear it anyway but I´m apparently curious.
    Oh, and there is one strange thing about it, there is a small paper between the fabric and the lining (which must be removed) with the number 48265059.
    Does anyone of you have any idea what this jacket could be? Thanks!

    Here is the pic of the paper found in the pocket:
    http://imageshack.us/a/img546/8846/8h8z.jpg


    Here you can check out the rest of the pictures:

    http://imageshack.us/a/img42/3412/wseh.jpg

    http://imageshack.us/a/img823/7725/a8pa.jpg

    http://imageshack.us/a/img268/6734/auc.JPG

    http://imageshack.us/a/img94/1416/uqs0.jpg

    http://imageshack.us/a/img838/7681/odrl.jpg

    and the paper with the mysterious number :

    http://imageshack.us/a/img14/1693/74a6.jpg
     
  15. rudals1281

    rudals1281 Senior member

    Messages:
    575
    Joined:
    May 15, 2012
    How are RLBL shoes regarded? I have a pair and I am happy with them. I would like to get another cap toe under for $600~$1,000. Any suggestions? Tramezza? Botched spelling fo sho~

    [​IMG]
     
  16. meursault42

    meursault42 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    61
    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2013
    Location:
    Seattle
    Quote:
    It's a little hard to tell from the photo quality, but it looks like shoulder shirring. Which, for the record, is not a defect, but an aesthetic choice. It would be easier to tell if you snapped a photo of the side of the jacket without your arm in it. If the ripples are still there, then you have shirring. If not (and again, it's hard to tell from the photo you have, but it's not hard to tell if it was on purpose) then you might have some pulling in the shoulder, but since this is bespoke, that's pretty unlikely.

    http://www.bespokenn.com/post/5277648787/what-is-a-neapolitan-jacket

    Look at shoulders in the jacket from the link. You'll notice the distinctive ripples of shirring at the shoulder compared to say, most other jackets which have perfect lines at the shoulder.
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2013
  17. brightoner

    brightoner Member

    Messages:
    14
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2013
    Can my suit jacket sleeves be lengthened if my tailor has already shortened them? How much longer should they be?

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

    Messages:
    2,467
    Joined:
    May 31, 2009
    Location:
    Frankfurt, Germany
    

    They should not be a single millimeter longer. They're perfect as is.
     
    2 people like this.
  19. brightoner

    brightoner Member

    Messages:
    14
    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2013
    Glad to hear it, thanks! I am driving myself nuts trying to get the proportions right for my wedding. Is the shirt sleeve length good too?
     
  20. dragulievic

    dragulievic Active Member

    Messages:
    36
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2013
    becnal is right, to me it seems perfect as well.
    both the suit and shirt sleeves are good imo :)
     

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