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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. rudals1281

    rudals1281 Senior member

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    sigh...where I find such bargains;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
     
  2. mrjester

    mrjester Senior member

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    Phoenix, AZ
    Good men's style books? "Dressing the Man"?

    Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk 4 Beta
     
  3. Shaun B

    Shaun B New Member

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    Jul 6, 2013
    I got a quick question. I got a pair of redwing iron rangers. I went to the store so the fit is spot on. However. I oiled them the first night to try and loosen them up a bit and they got darker. They are 8111 amber harness and I used redwing boot oil. I use it on my other boots and they usually lighten up with wear. Does anybody have experience with these?
     
  4. Mandelbrot

    Mandelbrot New Member

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    4
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    Jun 30, 2013
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    I'm thinking of adding to my suit collection. Right now I have 3 Dolce and Gabbana Martini suits (charcoal, navy, grey) and an E. Zegna (black). At 6'1" and 160lb the D&G suits fit me the best, I get complimented on them all the time, and as a result I wear them all the time. The 38R jacket fits perfect OTR and the shape is spot on and generally I get these on sale at Harry Rosen for around $1200.

    My questions is: Can I get a Samuelsohn suit (maybe the truck show MTM?) to fit the same as the D&G suits or should I stick with what works? Also what other colours should I be looking at next?
     
  5. docka

    docka Senior member

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    May 2, 2013
    Do you guys size up on sweaters when they are layered over a dress shirt?

    I'm typically a XS for dress shirts, but I'm thinking sweaters in XS will be a little too tight when layered.
     
  6. CruzAzul

    CruzAzul Senior member

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    Harlem, NY
    

    In a word, no.

    They stretch.
     
  7. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    Location:
    Baltimore County, Maryland, USA
    
    I would mention, in passing, that proper dress shirts are not sized in letters (such as S/M/L), but are sized with actual numbers, indicating collar size and sleeve length (for example, 16/34).

    If you typically wear an XS dress shirt, I suspect what you're actually wearing is not a dress shirt at all, but rather a sport shirt.
     
  8. Oysters

    Oysters Active Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 28, 2012

    Dear mimo,

    First of all, thank you for a very detailed answer. I'd like to begin by saying that I can buy very expensive stuff, but I won't, and here's my reason. I will be wearing these shoes to school (well, private school where I have to wear polos in the spring and suits in the winter - so don't laugh at me for buying dress shoes for school!). My school campus (especially the extensive gravel bits) is like a shoe destroying machine. I bought a pair of dress shoes in September 2012 for school and now they barely qualify as shoes. The front has all but turned green from scuff marks, and I also step on my heel very steeply (I don't know a better way to describe it) - but I have already chiseled away so much of my right heel that the wood is showing. The last thing I'd like to do is torture my first pair of Allen Edmonds to death like this. So, I have decided not to invest in nice shoes until later - when I really need them (half the people in my school get away with wearing boat shoes so $300 dress shoes really aren't imminently necessary - I hope you'll understand my logic).

    I was also wondering how Samuel Windsor makes shoes that cheap! I mean, I read that finding goodyear welted shoes even under $200 is a miracle - here they are for $50! I would say that they have been doing some serious photoshopping, but you say they are great for the money. How would they compare to other cheap brands like Clarks?

    Well, I was also wondering about these very attractive tassel loafers: http://www.johnstonmurphy.com/product.aspx?c=1208&pid=66980&VID=67016&SEARCH=breland#tabRatings

    They are not square toe, the leather appears to be slightly less... dickskin, if I may, and they have leather soles. Am I taking a step in the right direction now? And, same with the Meltons (http://www.johnstonmurphy.com/product.aspx?c=1215&pid=38301&VID=38301#)?

    P.S. On an unrelated note, I found it peculiar that you put John Lobb over Edward Green. I used to think it was the general consensus that Edward Green is sort of the "one and only."
     
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2013
  9. docka

    docka Senior member

    Messages:
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    May 2, 2013
    My apologies. I'm XS in sport shirts and my measurements in dress shirts are very similar to XS in sport shirts. I only used XS for comparison purposes to the sweater.
     
  10. LBC Demon

    LBC Demon Well-Known Member

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    Aug 3, 2012
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    
    American Apparel for American made sweat shop free shirts at a cheap price.
     
  11. mimo

    mimo Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 16, 2012
    You're welcome, my friend.

    Answers:

    1. Dress shoes are always appropriate; I wouldn't dream of ridiculing a man for dressing well. As for the wear problem, you're being silly. If you're heavy on your heels, you might like to consider a Dainite sole (or similar) that is very hard wearing. Also, steel taps can be put on the edge of the heel and the end of the toe if you want to stay with leather, and will prevent these problems completely. As for scuffs on your shoes: be more careful, and as we all live in the real world, polish them! Shoes are designed to be robust and designed to be used, so don't be afraid of them. With careful use of brushes and polishes, there is barely anything you can do to your shoes that cannot be covered up or transformed from damage into "character", at worst. So don't just wear crappy ones and think of them as disposable. Your logic is flawed - that one pair of $250 (sale, on now) Allen Edmonds can be reinforced and last you the whole time with proper care. Or how about a Dainite-soled Church's suede chukka for your summer chinos, at $150 as a second? (An example of something I saw on Herring's site). Your options are wide, don't compromise too much if you don't have to.

    2. Samuel Windsor and their like can make Goodyear welted shoes that cheap because Chinese factory workers don't earn shit and work really long hours with no pee breaks. Just as Loake can make a brogue on the 26 last in India and sell it for $150, whereas the near-identical shoe made in England costs $300. Clark's have a different model. They have a chain of high street stores, and I grew up wearing their shoes as "good quality". The best thing about them was they were the only place on the high street that measure children's feet properly. But as a man, I wouldn't ever shop there, because those overheads of physical shops mean they sell a glued together turd for your $50.

    3. Tassel loafers, good idea for your summer casuals (and so much nicer than boat shoes). But these are indescribably horrible. Leather that looks like it's been lining the back seat of a Bangkok taxi for the last ten years, and glued together. And is that kiltie really a plus? Personal thing, I suppose. But it costs $140! Whatever your size is, I'm sure we could find a dozen things that are both better looking and more durable within $20 of that price, in about ten minutes. Really, you must be kidding.

    4. These captoes do look like they might be Goodyear welted. But I can't be sure. Some shoes are made with a stitch around the "welt" and a stitch around the sole as a fashion effect (and I've been caught out myself buying a pair, only last year), hiding the fact that both sets of stitching are different sizes, entirely decorative, and the sole is glued on by a monkey. But again, even if these are welted, that's only fifty bucks shy of some of the Allen Edmonds shoes in their sale, or any number of the other options mentioned previously. And check out that nasty plastic-looking leather. For $175 plus shipping? Fuck right off, Johnston, and tell Murphy to accompany.

    Be brave. Try something else.
     
  12. mimo

    mimo Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 16, 2012
    Now, my turn to ask a question: who makes the shoes for "Suit Supply"? I saw someone wearing some double monks earlier that looked quite decent, and was surprised when he told me where they came from. I just looked up the site and they look awful in the pics.

    Any ideas where they come from?
     
  13. wojt

    wojt Senior member

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  14. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I like the brown one. Especially if the shirt is light blue.
     
  15. wojt

    wojt Senior member

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    thanks mimo, it's great that this site has posters like you, sadly so many are in ignore mode
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2013
  16. dgonsh

    dgonsh Senior member

    Messages:
    331
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    Sep 12, 2011
    Im ordering some MTM dress shirts. I followed the video tutorials and had my gf measure the tough to measure place.

    it turns out my shoulder (measured from end of shoulder bone to opposite end of shoulder bone) is 16.25". Is that way too narrow for someone with a 41" chest and 15.5" neck?

    it's hard to answer that question, i understand that. but the guy at the shirt company asked me if im sure cause someone with the rest of measurements "should" have 19" shoulders...

    uchh, this is such a crapshoot with this online mtm stuff.
     
  17. CruzAzul

    CruzAzul Senior member

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    Harlem, NY
    

    That sounds low to me. I share your neck and chest measurements, and my shoulders are around 18.5".
     
  18. LEgoiste

    LEgoiste Senior member

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    362
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    Feb 17, 2013
    Location:
    NYC
    Does anyone have any idea what brand are these wingtips?

    [​IMG]
     
  19. rudals1281

    rudals1281 Senior member

    Messages:
    575
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    May 15, 2012
    I am looking for another suit. Yes, I am a brand homer. Which designer would be the best for my physique? 165 lbs. 6ft tall. I've have 2 suits from both E.Zegna and RLBL. I am currently considering Isaia but don't know too much about them. I think Brioni and Kiton are out of my budget and TF's lapels are too big. I tried Isaia this weekend and I found them very nice and the fit to be just right. They'll just have to "pinch" a little around the waist. Nice patterns too and no boring solid colours. Pull the trigger or just go with RLBL solid...again.
     
  20. Xtra

    Xtra Senior member

    Messages:
    226
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2013
    Location:
    Norway
    I'm thinking of getting a peacoat, and I've been looking at the PRL Academy Pea coat (80% wool - link below).

    One example of where I can get one of these is from Ebay, as they don't stock it at polo.com now. (starting at USD 300 in my size - L)

    I know vintage peacoats from Vintage Trends or the like is probably as good or better than the PRL one, but with this I know what I'm getting. So when does it normally appear on the site and when does it go on sale? I know it was priced superlow around christmas I think. If you have any other good alternatives in the same pricerange (about 250-300$) from a store that ships internationally or Ebay seller, I would consider that as well.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Polo-L-...Pea-Coat-Jacket-Peacoat-RTL-495-/300921107463
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2013

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