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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Benjimin

    Benjimin New Member

    Messages:
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    May 18, 2013
    Location:
    O H I O
    I'm trying to put together some sort of wardrobe that goes well with my frame. I've checked everywhere and I seem to be an odd build. When I look up "skinny", "tall" seems to be implied. I'm not tall. When I look up "average height", "average build" is implied. So, I came here for advice for dressing a skinny, average height frame. I'm 5'11" and 150lbs. Anybody got any tricks? Tips? What are some "must haves" in my wardrobe? Did I mention I'm clueless? If you find yourself using a fashion term, feel free to assume I won't know what you mean. Thanks for any help.
     
  2. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    Location:
    Baltimore County, Maryland, USA
    
    It would likely be preferable to go to the tailor, put on the shirt, and have him mark/pin it up while it's on your body. This is true for various reasons, not the least of which being that unless your bespoke shirt is constructed virtually identically to your new dress shirts, a straight "clone" would be challenging to produce, and unlikely to yield optimal results.

    You've neglected to indicate where you're located, but I suspect that there are alterations tailors local to you capable of doing the job adequately and perhaps even at an affordable price. That is, there's likely no reason to send your shirts thousands of miles away to get this work done. Such being the case, why not go in and spend a few minutes putting on the shirt and letting your tailor do the job right? (I suppose you could be at a research station in Antarctica, far from any local alterations tailors, but just how many custom tailored dress shirts does one really need at a research station in Antarctica?)

    I would add that variations on your question are pretty common. Often along the lines of, "Can I measure my favorite suit, and send the measurements to the tailor and tell him to copy them when altering my new suit? Oh, and what measurements should I provide? And how do I take them?" You, at least, suggested sending in the bespoke shirt, and not just measuring it. Credit to you for that. But still and all, there's nothing superior to having the guy who's going to be cutting on your shirt actually having you put it on for him first, and indicating what you want done, and how much, and all the rest. (And when you pick up your altered shirt, try it on while he's standing there, and make sure you're satisfied with it, before you take it home.)

    BTW, alterations to the chest tend to be more expensive/complicated than alterations to the waist of the shirt. If all you needed were alterations to the waist, and even the sleeves, it'd be a dead simple and affordable job. You really couldn't find dress shirts that fit okay through the chest?
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2013
  3. iluvbrownale

    iluvbrownale New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Joined:
    May 18, 2013
    Location:
    Tassie
    Gentlemen, ladies, persons of interest....

    I've just switched suit brands and am giving Charles Tyrwhitt a whirl. I LOVE the fabric and the quality of construction for the money. But the fit is of course, different to that which I'm used to.

    My concerns are: should the jacket sleeves be shorter? With arms by my side they show 2-3mm of cuff. Can a suit with working buttons be shortened in the arms and is another 2-3mm do-able? My left arm is more reflective of the actual length.

    My biggest concern is the volume it he pants - too big? They're perfect on the waist, just wonder if they are flappy at the back? (Note - they have not been shortened yet)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. akious

    akious New Member

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    May 19, 2013
    What color socks should I wear with gray suit and burgundy color shoes?
     
  5. OTM

    OTM Senior member

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    Oct 21, 2010
    Location:
    Oslo, Norway
    Navy, to go with your tie.
     
  6. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Baltimore County, Maryland, USA
    
    As the saying goes, "A businessman chooses his socks to match his pants. A gentleman chooses his socks to match his mood."

    I wore a gray suit and burgundy shoes a few days ago. As I recall, my socks were grey, red, and yellow OTC argyles.

    I realize that some men wouldn't wear argyle socks with suits. But I do it occasionally, I'm comfortable doing it, and if this marks me as a rule-breaker, then so be it.

    I've even been known to wear OCBD shirts with suit and tie, and on infrequent occasions will wear tassel loafers with a suit. Verily, I am rebel. Hear me roar. :)
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. mimo

    mimo Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 16, 2012
    Quite right, Michael! It's a matter of confidence really, a bit like choosing a pocket square. If you're not really sure about putting together a tasteful ensemble while being a bit daring, sticking to navy/black/charcoal socks, and a white PS or none, is the safe game.

    But there's certainly no rule that socks have to be dull. Argylls are perhaps more country socks, and I don't normally wear mine with a business suit. But that's not to say never, either! Even when being very formal, I often go with a bit of colour - burgundy, bottle green, even raspberry and bright red.
     
  8. ovlov

    ovlov Senior member

    Messages:
    604
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2013
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Quick question re shoes tree guys. New to this and worried I may be damaging my shoes. I just got some Saphir trees for my Edward Green Chelseas. My only previous experience with trees are some nordstrom trees I use on my AEs. When I opened the box I noticed quite a few dark splotches on the inside of the box indicating that it had gotten wet at some point. The trees looked and felt fine though. But when i put them in it felt like a really tight fit (I had to loosen up all the laces and hold the heel steady to squeeze them in). the box says they are size 10uk and I am a 10.5 so the sizing should be correct. Is this a normal fit for hinged trees or have they warped and now pushing too hard and liable to wreck the shoes? any advice would be greatly appreciated. cheers
     
  9. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Aug 16, 2012
    You're a 10.5 UK or US? If the trees got really wet, or are still wet, they might have swollen a little, but should shrink again if dry.

    It sounds to me like they're just too big. You shouldn't have to go through acrobatics to get them into the shoes, although hinged trees will be a little more awkward than sprung ones. Now they're in, have a feel around the shoe and see if the trees are pushing the uppers out an any unusual places e.g. the side of a toe cap. If so, they could just be a really unsuitable shape for the shoe. Also, if, now they're in, you can't lace the shoes as you normally would, they're probably just too big.

    Trees are to keep your shoes more or less in shape when your feet aren't in them, as well as to dry them out. If they're changing the shape of the shoe or stretching it, then they're not the trees for you.
     
  10. marke

    marke New Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    May 19, 2013
    Picking out groomsmen attire. Pants and vest with tie; no jackets.

    Is it inappropriate to have mismatched pants (solid grey) and vests (super-fine houndstooth)?

    Thanks
     
  11. Bartleby Trout

    Bartleby Trout Senior member

    Messages:
    113
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2012
    Hey all,


    I need to put something together QUICK, but I'm not sure if it works.

    Grey pants, burgundy loafers.

    Does this work?

    Thank you so much!

    I also have black wingtips if that would be better. Kind of boring, but it's all I have right now. Ideally, would a lighter brown be the best bet?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2013
  12. ellsbebc

    ellsbebc Senior member

    Messages:
    752
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    Feb 2, 2012
    Trout you must define the purpose, event, etc.
     
  13. Bartleby Trout

    Bartleby Trout Senior member

    Messages:
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    Sep 1, 2012
    It's an unexpected, but very casual work meeting. Basically, I just need to make sure it works. For this particular event, it's not really about what's appropriate (it's pretty much just look decent), and more about putting together something that flows. In other words, forgetting the event, does this outfit work (burgundy and grey)? Or should I go with the black/grey? I would also add in the fact that it's partly an outside meeting, which makes me wonder if I should wear socks or not.

    Thank you very much.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2013
  14. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

    Messages:
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    Apr 3, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    
    Burgundy loafers and gray odd pants are a nice combination. Do you have a light blue button- down collar shirt?
     
  15. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    
    Your groomsmen are going to be mistaken for the waiters. Don't do this.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Bartleby Trout

    Bartleby Trout Senior member

    Messages:
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    Sep 1, 2012

    I do, but it's not the greatest. I think the collar is off. I could be wrong, though. I'll post a picture:
    (the shirt isn't dirty, but the mirror needs a bit of a cleaning!)


    [​IMG]
     
  17. Van Veen

    Van Veen Senior member

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    Nerdo Crombezia
    
    It's inappropriate to wear pants and vests without a jacket, so you can do whatever you want.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. TryHardAtSchool

    TryHardAtSchool Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    May 19, 2013
    I would like a bit of feedback on this suit. How does it fit? Should I have used a different tie color?

    http://imgur.com/643G69A
     
  19. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    Location:
    Baltimore County, Maryland, USA
    
    I was so focused on how horrible an idea it is to dress everyone in matching groomsmen's uniforms, that I failed to notice the awful "without a jacket" part. Good catch.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Bartleby Trout

    Bartleby Trout Senior member

    Messages:
    113
    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2012
    Yikes, can anyone answer my questions real quick? It's almost time to go!

    No to be impatient, but I still don't know what I'm doing.
     

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