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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    This ^^

    Both patent and calf are technically acceptable for black tie, but patent is considered by some to be a slightly weak alternative. The same principle applies to satin vs grosgrain silk for the tie and trimming.

    But in respect of pumps, I think the distinction is stronger: pumps for white tie would never be right in patent, in my opinion. As a dandy step up in black tie, maybe, but well-polished calf would still be more classy.
     
  2. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    Florida, unfortunately
    

    I prefer a highly polished calf shoe. I'm in the military and during inspections by Master Chiefs and Master Gunnery Sergeants I have been asked if my shoes were leather- which means you can make leather shine just as beautifully as the plastic corfam
     
  3. HasSoxWillSock

    HasSoxWillSock New Member

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    I am going to be attending a lot of fornmal events in the next year and have decided to get a tuxedo made. Does anyone know of a good resource (website/bookt/forum) where I can learn about all of the decisions that will need to be made: collar, pockets, vents, buttons, cuffs, materials, color, etc.? Thanks you guys and good thread.
     
  4. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    http://www.blacktieguide.com
     
  5. johnlocke

    johnlocke Member

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    Hi, I asked this before but the subject went off on a different topic of my question, so I thought I'd ask again: I'm in the process of buying a charcoal herringbone suit. I want to avoid a herringbone that looks like a self-stripe, though, in favor of one that looks totally solid from a slight distance. Do you think either of these fabrics would work?

    http://www.kentwang.com/charcoal-herringbone.html
    http://www.kentwang.com/charcoal-herringbone-1.html

    ‚ÄčI'm leaning toward the former, as it looks like it's a bit smaller scale and thus more likely to look solid. Any thoughts? Would either of these look "stripey" from a distance?
     
  6. marf

    marf Member

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    Would anyone mind to give some suggestions for a shirt/tie/trouser (color/fabric) combo for this sport coat? I will be wearing it at work (business casual).


    [​IMG]
     
  7. jamestruro

    jamestruro New Member

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    Here's a jacket which I recently found in a charity shop / thrift store in England. This is to me somewhat unusual - I've never seen a jacket like this before; it has military style patch pockets (I'm not sure if there's a more proper term for these?), a gunflap on both shoulders, and quasi-peaked lapels.

    Based on the label on the interior, it seems to have been manufactured by odermark in Austria, and retailed by a (now defunct) gentleman's outfitters in the South of England.

    The wool is a reasonably course heathered (orange and yellow flecks) grey/green herringbone tweed.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Does anyone have any idea what sort of use this jacket was manufactured for (if any), and how old it might be? (based on the labels and tailor, I wouldn't think it could be newer than the 80s).

    Would any of you wear this? What would you suggest pairing it with?

    thanks!
     
  8. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Who cares? Whether it was made for shooting, walking or just "looking country", it's a beauty! But if you don't like it, and it's kind of a big size..PM me...(and if it helps, I was born at Trelisk...!)
     
  9. jamestruro

    jamestruro New Member

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    Well, I like knowing what I'm wearing - and it'd be nice to wear it in the spirit in which it was intended to be used for!

    re: size it's probably about a 40R - and just about right for me, I'm afraid; I'll most likely be hanging onto it! [​IMG] If I ever get tired of it, though, I'll let you know...
     
  10. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    And if I ever lose about sixty pounds, I'll let you know!

    Well it looks in great condition, so whatever the intention it doesn't seem to have done much actual deerstalking/peasant shooting etc. I would suggest accompanying it with some sturdy boots and a thick walking cane, and sitting in the corner of a posh pub with an eternally half-full real ale, peering over a copy of Horse & Hound and scowling at tourists. I suspect that might have been its previous life.

    Enjoy it - it's beautiful!
     
  11. decogeo

    decogeo Active Member

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    What would you call the shade of blue Montezemolo is wearing on this pic? I've been looking at shades of blue on wikipedia but the difference between some of these shades are fairly subtle, and the page is not well organized to allow for comparisons. If someone knows a good source for identifying colors that would be helpful too. Thanks.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
  12. environs

    environs Active Member

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  13. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    Lots of things, just make sure either the tie or the shirt is a solid. As for trousers, tan, brown, olive, navy. Stay away from grays or blacks.
     
  14. jamestruro

    jamestruro New Member

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    I wonder if 'peasant' is a malapropism or not? Either way, since found in the Cotswolds, probably not inappropriate! :)
     
  15. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    Lots of possibilities. Why don't you offer some of your choices, and we can comment on them if they seem amiss?

    Oh, what the heck, if only so as not to be criticized as unhelpful, I'll suggest brown wool pants, an ecru shirt, and a green tie. All solid colors, since the jacket's got pattern enough, all by itself.

    These colors could work pretty much year 'round (particularly if you vary the shade of green represented by the tie). I chose ecru, rather than white, because the color will do everything white could do in this combination, while bringing along some minor advantages of its own - for example, some complexions which can look washed out next to a white shirt, fare better next to ecru. Besides, anybody can pull a white shirt out of the closet; ecru is at least a little less commonly seen (for all that it's hardly an exotic shirt color choice).

    Let me add that I think making the ecru shirt an OCBD, and the green tie a bow tie (wool in the winter, silk or cotton in the summer), would be a fine option.

    As for the brown pants, I'm well aware of the "no brown in the city" rule (which has only limited validity, in any case). But to whatever extent one chooses to honor it, it's largely a rule involving conservative business attire. Your sport coat is, itself, a rather casual item. Therefore, one has no cause to criticize the wearing of brown pants with it as impairing its formality, or rendering it insufficiently formal for business wear. (Fine, if you're still not convinced, just don't wear the brown pants with this sport coat if you're conducting business in London. Problem solved.)

    I'd wear a white linen pocket square with it. And burgundy loafers (simply because I like loafers). And probably one of my yellow (gold) wristwatches, rather than a white metal one. But I readily concede that the wristwatch thing is more of a personal choice of mine, than it is some rule of proper accessorizing. And a pair of yellow and red over-the-calf argyle socks.

    If I were wearing the outfit described, and were going to be wearing sunglasses, I'd grab my faux tortoise shell Ray Ban Clubmasters.

    There. That detailed enough for you?
     
  16. Redline9k

    Redline9k Well-Known Member

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    Mar 7, 2010
    Anyone have input on decent punchcap dress shoes in black with a narrower toe/last than AE Fifth Ave? Id like to keep it under 350.

    The AE rutledge is about perfect, but i cant bring myself to pay 450+ for a pair of AE's...getting into CJ territory.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
  17. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     
  18. azumi

    azumi Senior member

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    What types of shoes is more suitable for outdoor activities, grain leather or suede (both are dainite soles)?
     
  19. decogeo

    decogeo Active Member

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    New York
    Not knowing exactly what kind of outdoor activities you have in mind, I would say grain leather as it is easier to clean. For proper outdoors I would go with a technical shoe with a gore-tex membrane.
     
  20. swedishguy

    swedishguy New Member

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