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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. johnlocke

    johnlocke Member

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    Apr 15, 2013
    Well, that was sort of my original question -- how do I tell if something will look like a self-stripe from just a swatch?

    I'm leaning toward this: http://www.kentwang.com/suits/charcoal-herringbone.html or this: http://www.kentwang.com/suits/charcoal-herringbone-3.html.

    For reference, Kent Wang's standard charcoal suit is made from this: http://www.kentwang.com/suits/charcoal-twill-3.html.
     
  2. AZsundevil

    AZsundevil Well-Known Member

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    Dec 26, 2012
    What is the consensus on "the gap" that is formed when buttoning a jacket that leaves the belt buckle and part of the shirt visible? I'm not sure if there's more accurate terminology I should be using here. To explain what I mean, I snagged a picture from the WAYWRN thread of our esteemed friend NewYorkIslander. It's not my intention to pick on NYI, but his picture demonstrated exactly what I'm curious about.

    [​IMG]

    When is it appropriate and when is it not appropriate? It seems to be more of a casual/odd SC thing, whereas a well-made suit would not display any gap? Am I right in guessing that "the gap" is just a little more casual vs a jacket that completely overlaps and does not show the gap?
     
  3. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Aug 16, 2012
    I would say that the quarters are too open (that's the expression) in this pic of NYI. In my opinion this is a little too nipped in the waist (the stretching/creases around the button are a giveaway, but this is very common with the fashion for a close fit these days), the quarters are just cut too open, and the trousers could have a slightly higher rise (again, the current fad is low rise; I dislike it).

    Generally, if you can see your belt buckle, and certainly if you can see your shirt below the suit button, then that's a bad thing. One of three things could be wrong: the buttoning point of the jacket is too high, the quarters are too open, or the trousers sit too low. In this case I'd say the second, possibly with a hint of the third, AND that the jacket is just a touch too small around the body. He's a splendid dresser for a schoolteacher though, isn't he? Actually, he's a splendid dresser by any standard.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
  4. sanchito

    sanchito Well-Known Member

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    Feb 16, 2013
    Call me crazy but I actually dig it...the hint of metal juxtaposed with the tie is cool...I agree with the other poster that it's more casual than a suit...it lends it a certain something...or as the French say a certain je m'appelle insouciance. ;)
     
  5. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

    Messages:
    667
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    Dec 30, 2012
    Location:
    Florida, unfortunately
    

    No worries, Irish. In hope that you find some folks over there who can help you out.
    Cheers.
     
  6. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    The French say "my name is insouciance"? Weird.

    Anyway, what I forgot to add was that there should be some gap. And maybe a "hint of metal" as you put it, is OK. But really, if you can see the whole thing and/or shirt and tie, then something's not quite right.
     
  7. sanchito

    sanchito Well-Known Member

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    Feb 16, 2013
    I was being purposely malapropic with a phrase (hence the winky thingy)...I'm sure you were expecting "je ne sais quoi"...I thought it was clever...c'est la vie...jokes like fashion choices sometimes fall flat...non?
     
  8. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Haha...OK that's kind of what I thought...we're on the same page after all!
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. redboat

    redboat Senior member

    Messages:
    174
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    Feb 10, 2013
    Location:
    San Francisco, California
    I actually find the 16-33 slim fits and extra slim fits that my neck and arms need from Brooks Brothers are slightly too wide in the shoulder. Maybe 1/4"-1/2" on each side. But so far it does not bother me enough to do anything about it.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. wohwoh

    wohwoh Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 6, 2013
    I tried searching, but to no avail. I really do not know how waist suppression work, so here's my question:

    Can a waist suppression on a suit jacket be undone? If yes, would it go back to the way it exactly was before the suppression was made?
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
  11. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    4,135
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    Dec 18, 2009
    Location:
    Not Manhattan, unfortunately
    

    It depends on whether the original material was cut off or left inside the lining. Smart tailors would probably leave a little more room for "undoing" the suppression. Only looking inside the lining would tell.
     
  12. Bartleby Trout

    Bartleby Trout Senior member

    Messages:
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    Sep 1, 2012
    Hello all,

    I was wondering if these would go both dress pants and jeans/chinos.

    Thanks a lot [​IMG]
     
  13. sinfjotli

    sinfjotli Senior member

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    Nov 4, 2011
    Location:
    California
    IMHO, the contrast sole edge makes them a little more casual, but they would go perfectly with chinos and jeans.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. jackyleec

    jackyleec Member

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    7
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    Apr 25, 2013
    A D&G jacket size 44 reg will have chest measure 42" whats up with that??
     
  15. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Aug 16, 2012
    Depends what you mean by "dress pants". You couldn't really wear these with a formal suit, but then if you were wearing something light in colour, like a beige linen suit, it would fly OK. These are fun, casual shoes, but could still pair with classic "dress" wear if it is light and informal.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

    Messages:
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    Dec 30, 2012
    Location:
    Florida, unfortunately
    I second the comment above- it would seem to me that of the fabric was not cut out during the original alteration that it could be taken back out.

    Good comments on this so far- they are nice enough for slacks, linen, etc, but not good for a proper suit. Informal dress would be fine.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. Bartleby Trout

    Bartleby Trout Senior member

    Messages:
    113
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    Sep 1, 2012
    Really helpful answers, thanks everyone.
     
  18. Bartleby Trout

    Bartleby Trout Senior member

    Messages:
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    Sep 1, 2012
    

    I meant like work casualish. Dress pants with button down shirt and tie (or no tie). Sleeves probably rolled up.
     
  19. Displacement

    Displacement Senior member

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    Oct 19, 2010
    I have a question about formal pumps. I always thought patent leather was the convention for black tie, but seeing this picture from Vox's tumblr has me reconsidering. As there's no mistaking formal pumps for standard dress shoes that have been polished up for the occasion, would calf be preferable? I don't have any fondness for patent and I feel patent pumps might be a bit in-your-face.
     
  20. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

    Messages:
    2,139
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    Apr 3, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    I've seen formal pumps in both patent and calf. I personally prefer calf, as I can't stand the idea that my shoes have been coated with plastic. I think either one is appropriate. If you polish the calf at the beginning of the evening, they will shine almost as much as patent.
     

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