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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. DerangedGoose

    DerangedGoose Senior member

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    In their FAQ about the leathers they use, they have one finish listed as "brush off" which is described as a "slightly leveled skin" -- this is probably their euphemism for corrected grain. In all of the shoes that I am interested in, however, none of the descriptions or technical details are listed as having the "brush off" finish, so I assume the shoes I am interested in employ full grain standard calf?

    Do you think I should email them to be sure?
     
  2. Xtra

    Xtra Senior member

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    Norway
    sinfjotli: thanks for the clarification on open/closed quarters in suits, I was curious as to what the quarters meant in suits but now I know.
     
  3. DerangedGoose

    DerangedGoose Senior member

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    I found these meermin's for really cheap, but they are a 9.5 UK, which is a 10.5 US and I am closer to 11. They are an E width. When I asked for measurements, They were .1-.2 inches short in outsole length, and more or less spot on in insole length to my slip on loafers, which are a size 44 (10.5 US). The only difference is that my loafers have stretch gussets built into the sides of the tongue, and these are just standard shoes. Do you guys think they will be too tight of a fit?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    Probably.
     
  5. Thahmas

    Thahmas Member

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    Hi, I've just had a suit made. Not overly happy with the fit so will be taking it back for some tweaks shortly. One other thing I've noticed is some stitching on the underside of the lapel? Is this normal or is it a short-cut? Does this mean that there's no canvas in the lapel?
    [​IMG]
     
  6. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Firstly, re. corrected grain, there is no obligation to tell you either way. For trading purposes, leather is leather. If the person you ask knows the difference they might tell you, otherwise they'll just say "it says leather on the box, that's all I know". But like I said, don't get hung up on it: they're cheap, and if you like them, try them. Even if it is corrected grain, there are degrees from awful to decent-looking. And if it looks decent, give it a go.

    On the sizing point, be careful. "E" means different things - in England it's normally narrow, although some makers use it for medium (especially the top makers, whose lasts are often narrow anyway). Which last is it? Check the Meermin thread for comparisons, but I understand that most of their lasts are quite slender. Also, don't be mislead by the length of your internal shoe measurement. A loafer often has a more rounded toe, and a shoe that is more tapered can feel plenty smaller even if it's an inch or more longer: the elegant extended toe box doesn't give your foot any more room. Also, watch the comparisons: there is no direct equivalence between size systems and no standard for manufacturers. Depending on last shape, sizing will vary a lot from person to person. For instance, several places call a UK 9.5 a 44. It's actually 43.8. I'm a 9.5 usually, and wear 43.5 or 44 depending on the shoe. I also have a 10 wide and a 9.5 regular from the same maker that fit - just different shapes.

    So in short, I think that shoe will be too small for you...
     
  7. DerangedGoose

    DerangedGoose Senior member

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    Thanks for your straightforward input, mimo. I kind of figured the shoes would be too small. If anyone wants, I can PM them the link to the ebay auction. They are going for 80+40 shipping, no bids and a BIN of 130 or 150

    I just picked up these allen edmonds kenilworths slightly used off ebay for 120 shipped. They were by far the cheapest option in the price range. I already have a horsehair brush, what else should I grab? renovateur?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2013
  8. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    A dauber brush, an old toothbrush, a few rags (cut up an old t-shirt, maybe), leather cleaner/conditioner (Allen Edmonds is what I typically use, it ships for free from AE, and is currently on sale), some Meltonian cream (not the only brand, but I like it).

    There are thousands of webpages and youtube videos on shoe care, so I won't bother going over the details here. There's also the SF shoe care thread, at http://www.styleforum.net/t/228153/the-official-shoe-care-thread-tutorials-photos-etc/0_50, where you can review thousands of posts on this topic, never mind that taking care of your shoes really isn't all that complicated.
     
  9. DrewBru75

    DrewBru75 Member

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    Ok quick question. Men's cardigans...blue and black with small horizontal stripes?

    Yes or No.
     
  10. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    No. Get a blazer and man up. :)
     
  11. DrewBru75

    DrewBru75 Member

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    Wasn't saying that solely...I'm talking about as a piece for layering.
     
  12. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Yeah. I'm just being a dick. But still no. :)
     
  13. DrewBru75

    DrewBru75 Member

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    Thanks Richard!

    Hahaha
     
  14. sanchito

    sanchito Well-Known Member

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    Quick Question...finding it impossible to find a Navy Blue Sport Coat in my size on Etsy, Ebay, or in a thrift store...where can I buy a new 44L sport coat for under $300? Thanks!
     
  15. sanchito

    sanchito Well-Known Member

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    Before the smart asses say something smart I mean a stylish, nice fitting, good quality jacket...I'm finding the options overwhelming.
     
  16. DerangedGoose

    DerangedGoose Senior member

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    Is it possible to wear my black cordovan Alden loafers with shorts? If not, is it possible to wear them sockless with colored chinos in the summer?


    I am trying to figure out what the hell I can use these things for or if I should just get rid of them
     
  17. redboat

    redboat Senior member

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    San Francisco, California
  18. sanchito

    sanchito Well-Known Member

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  19. sanchito

    sanchito Well-Known Member

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  20. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    The lapels aren't freakishly wide, like something Greg Brady might have worn to the high school dance, and which Marcia would have declared groovy. Just a little wider than the current trend for somewhat narrow lapels happens to favor.

    Anyway, don't worry about the age of a jacket, as such. I have a few items in my closet from the 1990s, and they look great. One's a suit I picked up on eBay last year (in unworn condition - the pants bottoms were still unfinished), and I know it dates back to at least 1995, since the label bears the name of a store that went out of business that year. It's a handsome glen plaid suit, traditionally styled, from a well respected clothing line. I wore it to an engagement party, just last week. One of my favorite suits.

    No, its styling doesn't reflect today's fashion trends, but since I don't particularly care for the current too short, too closely fitting, overly narrow lapeled look...

    The Polo jacket you're asking about is likely a few years old, but probably no more than a few. It it's in good shape, don't worry overmuch about the size of the lapels. The lapels look okay today, and in a few years, when narrow lapels look ridiculous, that jacket's lapels will still look okay.

    Polo was around the middle of the Ralph Lauren lineup. Not the best, and not the worst. (Think of it as being better than than Chaps or Lauren, but it's no Purple Label or Black Label.)

    I'd say that Polo tended to be better several years ago, than it is today. (And no, that's not just an "everything used to be better" response.)

    Ultimately, if you like the looks of the blazer, and the measurements make it sound like it'd fit you, then go ahead and buy it. I mean, it's forty bucks. A new Polo blazer probably retails high enough that the sales tax might set you back around $40. Buy it, and once it reaches you, if you don't like the looks or the fit or something, you can probably put it back on eBay and get back whatever it cost you, near enough. And if it reaches you and you do like it, well, then you found yourself a real bargain, right? And if ever it gets stained or torn or something, you can shrug it off as a $40 loss, and not a $500 loss.

    Tons of really nice sport coats and blazers on eBay, often selling for pennies on the dollar. Such that with just a little patience, and a moderate talent at discerning treasure from trash, one can easily put together a collection of a half dozen very nice sport coats and blazers for less than a single one might sell for brand new, with tags, at a retail store. Well, maybe not in unusual sizes, like 36S or 54L, but 44L is not an uncommon size at all.
     
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