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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Semi Fly

    Semi Fly Active Member

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    That confirms my suspicion. Thanks!
     
  2. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    The top shoe is called a "saddle oxford". It's traditionally a "sports" shoe (like a spectator). I would keep it for chinos, and maybe a coat with no tie. The bottom shoe is indeed a plain toe oxford. But as you noted, the natural-coloured welt, prominent welt stitching, textured leather and chunky style, all make it casual. It's also fuck ugly - don't bother. For Sebago prices, you can get far more attractive and versatile shoes. Give us a budget and we will spend it for you. :)

    Yes, it has. A weird looking shoe and I don't much like it. But each to his own.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  3. roquesoon

    roquesoon Senior member

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    Random request:

    Does anyone in the NYC area have empty Saphir renovateur containers that they would be willing to part with? (the short glass ones, square on bottom, round opening, in case there is any confusion)

    I am a musician (bassoonist) and usually use shot glasses to soak my reeds in (anyone who took band in high school is probably familiar with the concept). I was doing my shoe polish routine when I realized that the renovateur container would make a perfect reed soaking apparatus. It holds a decent amount of water, has a wide opening, but is squat, and made of sturdy glass, so it will resist getting kicked over and shattered (I have been through a lot of shot glasses...)

    Just 1 would be great, 2 even better, and 3 would be like Christmas.

    I'll pay for shipping, or I can pick up in person or whatever if you're close to/in Manhattan. And certainly if someone further away has one, I'm interested as well, just figured we might save the trouble if you are in NYC.

    Thank you, gentlemen!

    [also posted in the Shoe Care thread]
     
  4. Baked Potato

    Baked Potato Senior member

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    Stockholm, Sweden
    Are the PRL oxford shirts sold in USA the same size as the ones sold i Europe? Normally, I wear Custom-Fit Medium, what would the equivalent be in US sizes?
     
  5. Winston S.

    Winston S. Senior member

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    The thing about reno is that it takes so long to go through. BTW their other creams come in the same bottle, so no need to restrict this to renovateur bottles. Renomat comes in a different bottle though.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2013
  6. bbhues

    bbhues Well-Known Member

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    Can anyone recommend a modestly priced brand of cotton trousers that are slim and mid-to-high waisted? Just looking for a starting point.
     
  7. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    Don't do this. A half inch difference in the collar size does matter, and while you may get fat, I'm guessing that that's not a goal. The collar is the most important part of a shirt, since it's right next to your face, where people look, and it's one of the few things visible when you're wearing a suit, or for that matter, a sweater. Buy the right size. As a 14.5 size neck myself, I've had to get rid of a fair number of 15" shirts given by well intentioned relatives who thought what mimo thought, that the collar size doesn't actually matter. It does. Get the right collar size, and get a shirt body that fits. It might be wise to try a maker other than Brooks too.
     
  8. Semi Fly

    Semi Fly Active Member

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    Man I love this site! The only pair of dress shoes I have at the moment are black J&M Meltons. I don't have any true business casual dress shoes either:

    [​IMG]

    I'll be going to business school and want a brown pair of dress shoes. Ideally, I'd like them to be versatile enough to go from OCBD/chinos to a suit. It's looking like I'll need to get one pair of business casual shoes like the saddle oxford above and then another pair of dressier occasions. In that case, I'll probably use the Meltons exclusively for suits and the sweet spot for the brown shoes will be with a dress shirt and slacks combo. Most of my pants are slim fit, flat front, if that matters.

    I'm willing to spend up to $200 but would prefer to stay below $150. I plan to wear these brown shoes much more often than the JM Meltons, which is why I didn't move into AE territory then.Money is going to be tight as I build up my wardrobe and pay for school.

    FWIW I really love the Kent Wang captoes but they are out of my budget and I think also too dressy for casual wear.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. wakawaka

    wakawaka Well-Known Member

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    I've found an Italian jacket (LBM 1911) on an auctioning website. However I've no idea what size it is... The seller didn't prove to be of much help. Here's the link: http://allegro.pl/show_item.php?item=3173333345

    There's a photo of the tag in item's description and it says "taglia 46R". Huh? Does it correspond to Small, Medium, Large? My guess is that Italian 46R is Small, but that's just a guess.

    Would appreciate some help here.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2013
  10. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Usually you subtract 10 from European sizes, making that correspond to a 36, which is very small.

    But tag sizes are worthless, if you don't have specific sizing details, move on.
     
    2 people like this.
  11. DerangedGoose

    DerangedGoose Senior member

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    Italian clothes are absurdly small. At the G star in Rome I had to get an XL jacket, and Im 5'11 and wore a 40 or 42R in suits. The only reason I went XL was because they were out of XXL.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Numbernine

    Numbernine Senior member

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    A D&G jacket size 44 reg will have chest measure 42" whats up with that??
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2013
  13. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    It does have measurements. Translated by google:

    Dimensions

    length 74cm
    width 60 cm x 2 - without stretching
    Sleeve 59 cm from the top

    If the width is a pit to pit, it would be a very, very slim 46- Basically, it would have a total chest circumference of 47.5" or so. Not out of line with superslim euro street fashion, though obviously that takes a certain figure to pull off.

    But it's in the realm of "holy crap, that's cheap", so go for it if you're still interested.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Dark Knot

    Dark Knot Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Hong Kong
    Well, I'm not trying to justify how wearable this is based on the brand, but this is a Vineyard Vines tie, and they specialize in preppy wear, which is apparently, what the intended use of the tie is for. So if it were the Kentucky Derby or something, while the green might be a little off, the general motif and color scheme of the tie would fit in perfectly. Just my two cents. And yes, I appreciate your support for my blog! Actually, if you have any ideas for content, please feel free to post suggestions or message me. Thanks!
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I was suggesting he try a 15, not just go ahead and buy one. If he's a young fellow, as I'd assumed, then it's surprising how much bulk a man gains in his late teens and early twenties without "getting fat"; and he might well go up a size or two as his musculature develops. But also, even the same size can feel different between shirts, and even between shirts of slightly different styles by the same maker.

    But you're right, the point is to get something that fits. So the obvious adage applies: try shit on. And definitely check some different brands, yes indeed.
     
  16. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    OK!

    Your black cap toes are just what you need for the more formal occasions with a suit. Well done. Look up some polishing tips on this forum, get some shoe trees as and when you can, and there's no reason a pair of oxfords in that price range can't look really sharp.

    So, to your "business casual" shoes. For something you can wear with slacks and a blazer, or just chinos and a polo, I think you're right that brown is the way to go, and I would also suggest tan as an option. The brown captoes you showed are nice, but as you said, perhaps just a little too stiff to mix with jeans. The middle way might be to get a brogue or semi-brogue. If you do go in that direction, it might be just a little too casual for a suit - especially if the colour is lighter. But you have the black captoes, and I think these might cover every other occasion:

    Firstly, here's a brown captoe in your price range:

    1. http://meermin.es/ficha_articulo.php?id=2034 The downside with this one is that the orders can take a long time. But in terms of value for money, I'm told these are not bad at all. If you're not in a hurry and do love the captoe, then this is formal enough for a suit - especially a lighter coloured one, or lovely with navy - and fine with blazer and grey flannels or chinos. I'm not sure what means of shipping they use. Check out the "Meermin" thread for info in that regard; they will answer your questions on import duties and whatever (I am assuming you're in the US?).


    Secondly, here is selection of brogues and semi-brogues from a shop I've used myself. One of the good things about these guys, and the reason I've chosen them for you over other sellers I use, is that they use EMS for postage. That's the international courier arrangement used between most national postal services. This is important, I'm told, because it means you'll get your shoes via USPS, and they don't charge a fortune for processing stuff through customs like DHL and Fedex might, and you might even avoid any import duties at all. So, here they are, in ascending price order, but all within your budget (with VAT removed and postage added).

    2. http://www.pediwear.co.uk/loake/products/11.php I have a suede pair of these (that I would recommend if you were only wearing them casually). The finish isn't perfect, but it's a really comfortable, well-shaped shoe made of decent materials. It's a full brogue (wingtip) so at the less formal end, but I'd be happy wearing these with a sport coat, especially on a more summery occasion. This one also comes with free shoes trees and a tie - bargain!

    3. http://www.pediwear.co.uk/loake/products/315.php Same as number 2, but in a half brogue (punched cap toe with medallion). Just a touch less "country" than the full brogue. It's not out of the question to wear these with a suit, especially if it's a light colour or less structured.

    4. http://www.pediwear.co.uk/barker/products/4138.php This is a really good shoe for the money. The more sober colour might be what you were looking for, and although it's a half brogue, with a good polish I think it could be pretty smart with a navy suit, as well as the more casual looks. In my experience, Barker use nice leather and have good quality control. If you like it, and they have your size, then this price is great.

    5. http://www.pediwear.co.uk/barker/products/2801.php We're coming up to the top of your price range here, and it's another Barker - a half brogue again but in a more casual walnut shade. I bought the full brogue version of these for my business partner a while back and they are really, really good. The leather is beautiful, the colour is really attractive and they are well made. Less formal than the brown ones above, but they really sing quality. For an English-made shoe, in leather this good, this is a bargain price. Just one thing: they come in a wider fitting (like a US "E" fitting). I don't know what your size is (and they don't have many sizes left), but bear in mind the fit will be generous. Then again, if you've only worn sneakers for most of your life, you might find them very comfortable. While I'm at it, numbers 2&3 also have a generous fit. 1 might be a bit narrow.

    6. http://www.pediwear.co.uk/grenson/products/4317.php Grenson is a pretty prestigious name, although this range is actually made in India I think (as are the Loakes in 2 & 3). But the leather also looks decent. The styling is a tan half brogue again, and with the natural coloured welt it's even more casual, so probably just a little too laid back for a suit. It's also bumping at the top of your budget, but worth considering.


    Alternatively, you could go in a completely different direction, and try a whole cut. The trick here is to balance the plainness of the shoe, that implies formality, with a stylish shape and lighter colour. My pick is:

    7. http://www.bexley.com/Bexley/en/p/dress_shoes/peter/chestnut?coloris=acajou I have only bought trees from this French company (good value, depending on how the shipping adds up for you). Again, they usually have the option of shipping by EMS. But some other SF folks have bought these economical shoes and they really don't look bad at all. This chestnut wholecut is seriously classy in shape and colour, and any wholecut is going to set you apart from the college crowd. Actually, there are a dozen shoes you could take from here, but this is my favourite, and different to all those above. Or maybe this is even better - a slightly squared off toe and darker shade, very classy: http://www.bexley.com/Bexley/en/p/dress_shoes/carnegie?coloris=chataigne



    Now, here's a wild card for you: http://www.samuelwindsorshoes.co.uk/shop.cfm/shoes/lace-up-shoes/57/7341

    These are cheap. Really cheap. And some of them, frankly, will look it. The shipping will cost as much as the shoes. But, it gives you the option of two pairs within your budget.

    I bought a pair of suede half brogues for my son, and although I can't say the leather used is the most beautiful, I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of construction and finish, and some little touches like the inclusion of shoe bags and travel trees. They are goodyear welted so won't fall apart, and if you're prepared to do some work with the polish to make them look a little more natural and grown up, they might be worth a look. Especially if you're keen to get a minimum selection really quickly, with a view to trading up over time.

    So, skip the very cheapest ones, and perhaps look at either of these two for your "business casual" shoe, or even both as your two-for-$120:

    http://www.samuelwindsorshoes.co.uk...-brogue-tan-italian-leather-upper/57/no/65156
    http://www.samuelwindsorshoes.co.uk/buy.cfm/lace-up-shoes/prestige-siena-shoe-tan/57/no/65171


    And then for a really casual but still respectable shoe, if you only take one of the above, how about something in suede, a real country brogue, or even a chukka boot? These stand out to me:

    http://www.samuelwindsorshoes.co.uk/buy.cfm/lace-up-shoes/prestige-oxford-shoe-suede/57/no/71356
    http://www.samuelwindsorshoes.co.uk/buy.cfm/lace-up-shoes/prestige-country-brogue-brown/57/no/71363
    http://www.samuelwindsorshoes.co.uk...s/prestige-kensington-boot:-brown/57/no/67605
    http://www.samuelwindsorshoes.co.uk...restige-chukka-boots:-french-blue/57/no/67602


    Now, here's a thing: to a point at least, you will get what you pay for. The temptation to get more shoes for less money is pretty big. But I would only do that if you feel a desperate need to have two more pairs of shoes today. Personally I'd go for number 5 for the quality - if the fit is going to be right, or number 2 if you need to stay a little cheaper, and with the bonus of trees and a free tie too. But if you must have two pairs, get the half brogue and the blue suede chukka. Maybe that's just me. Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
    2 people like this.
  17. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

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    I think that's a wonderful necktie. If you have a blue blazer, a pink OCBD shirt, tan trousers, tan suede shoes with green (or pink laces), a green or pink pocket square, and any socks you like (or no socks) you will be fine. If you have a Vineyard Vines belt, no matter what color, wear it, too. If you also have the good fortune to be old (as I am) a straw hat would also look good. (Full Disclosure-perhaps I am not being objective, as I have quite a few Vineyard Vines things, and really like them.)
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    Truly horrible advice.

    The idea that one should wear an item regardless of what it looks like ("no matter what color it is"), purely on the basis of its brand name, is about as wrong-headed as you can get.

    I agree that Vineyard Vines offers many nice belts. I also happen to think that Brooks Brothers offers many nice shirts. But if someone were to ask me which shirt he should wear with his new suit, I'd never tell him that if he owns a Brooks Brothers shirt he should wear it, no matter what color it is. I mean, that's ridiculous. Color does happen to matter.

    Admittedly, sometimes wearing a single attention-grabbing item - almost regardless of color or degree of formality - can be a look. Certainly, there's a prep tradition for sometimes wearing a single GTH item. It can be used to add interest to an otherwise drab outfit. It can express a (socially acceptable) degree of non-conformity. It can even [typically falsely] promote the image of the wearer as possessing a devil may care attitude toward his appearance, and not being overly concerned with sartorial details. But that's one item. A pair of loud madras pants. A multi-colored jacket. A whimsical necktie. A colorful and casual belt. Etc. Wearing multiple GTH items simply leaves one looking like a clown.

    And in the case in question, the bright green tie, with the repeating, pink animal motif, is that GTH item.

    There is a fine line between playing the rake and playing the buffoon.
     
  19. Semi Fly

    Semi Fly Active Member

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    Wow, thanks mimo! Those are awesome recommendations. Thanks for being so detailed too! I completely agree with you about the Barker half-brogue. The color is gorgeous. The meermin captoes are really nice as well. With only one other pair of dress shoes, I'm inclined to go for the captoes and then add the Barkers (or walnut Strands) further down the road when possible. I'm also considering getting the Barkers in burgundy, but I think that the tan color is one of its best features.

    I'm not as keen on the Flynn model due to the squarish toe box. Maybe it's just the angle, but it looks "clunkier" than the others.

    I live in the US and wear a 10.5D. It feels a bit tight but I've only worn the shoe 3 or 4 times. Would you happen to have any recommendations in the US? I'll check out a few stores to see if they carry these brands. I'm a bit concerned about international shipping when dealing with returns or exchanges.

    Thanks again!
     
  20. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

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    While the notion of a shoe "breaking in" is not completely false, neither does it tend to happen to anywhere near the extent some people expect. In general, if your shoe is tight after 3 or 4 wearings, it's simply too small, and it is likely to remain tight.

    Sometimes a shoe can be stretched. And sometimes that is all it takes. Sometimes.

    You may want to look into this option, since wearing too small shoes will - at best - be uncomfortable. At worst, it can lead to long-term injury to the foot.
     

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