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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. kmitch101

    kmitch101 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    70
    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2012
    Thanks for the suggestions. I saw a version similar to Kent on the Meermin site in the plaintoe (http://meermin.es/ficha_articulo.php?id=1920#) and they would definitely be cheaper. Not sure how the quality compares? And they're a little less sleek possibly. I wish Kent offered some more shades like a merlot in the captoe because I do like the sleek shape.

    Any suggestions for some dirty bucks?

    The leather sole Oak Street Trench looks very nice. I'd imagine the quality is on par with White's just without the customization? Only thing I would want to do is add a vibram half sole.
     
  2. bennyy

    bennyy Well-Known Member

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    Nov 28, 2011
    how does Church's shoes run? I want to pick up some Derbys and I wear size 7/40 in everything...Yet the store only has size UK5.5 left measuring 11.25" outsole
     
  3. squishmaster

    squishmaster New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    Feb 21, 2013
    I have recently gotten into ordering M2M shirts and suits online and have been glad that there are so many customization options. One thing that I never considered before was getting a peak lapel suit. The reason for this is that I am 6'3" (1.91 m) and heavy-set. I had always thought that peak lapels, like double-breasted suits, were designed for shorter and skinnier men. Is this true? Should I even consider buying a peak lapel at my size (54L), or should I just consider that it will be out of fashion soon anyway, and so I should stick with the classic medium-width notch that I have always worn?
     
  4. NORE

    NORE Senior member

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    Back On Here
    Depends on the last but I have found Church's shoes to run pretty true to size.
     
  5. mimo

    mimo Senior member

    Messages:
    7,380
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    Aug 16, 2012
    Benny, in my experience they're true to size, but the lasts I've had tend to be pretty long - a classic English extended toe. So if your foot is narrow, you might find them big. If it's wide, they'll be fine but maybe a touch tight across the toe. They do a wide fitting in most of their sizes. But yeah, for an average width foot, they should fit just right, just maybe with a slightly longer toe sticking out than you're used to if you usually wear American shoes.

    In your case, it sounds like a 5.5 would be too small for you if you normally take a US7. But shop around. Check out www.herringshoes.co.uk if you like Church's - they always have some clearance items, and you can search by size. I would suggest a 6.5F is more likely to fit you. They are also very helpful with recommendations and shipping - I'm wearing Church's I bought from them as I type, and I've had several other pairs from them too. Try their own brand made by Cheaney too - very good value.


    N.B. it's easy to get mixed up about width fittings in English shoes:

    Loake, Barker, Alfred Sargeant, Cheaney, CHURCH'S: E= Narrow F = Medium, G = wide. Church's also do H= extra wide for some shoes

    Edward Green, John Lobb, Crockett and Jones, Gaziano & Girling: E= Medium, F = wide

    Tricker's: some stuff to do with numbers, I think 5 = medium!

    So don't get caught out: F is regular width for Church's i.e. US D or M width.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2013
  6. donjuan17

    donjuan17 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jan 15, 2013
    Location:
    Kailua, H.I.
    What are your thoughts on Church's 'Prague' loafers? They seem to be discontinued.
    Details on them include:
    -360 Goodyear welt
    -Steel shank
    -Almond toe
     
  7. mimo

    mimo Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 16, 2012
    I think you need to ask what YOUR thoughts are on them.

    Church's have become extremely unpopular on this forum over the last few years because of a perceived drop in quality and their expansion into more "fashionable" lines since the Prada takeover. There is some justification.

    But if you like them, and can afford them, they are still a very respectable goodyear welted shoe with a famous name.

    I haven't seen these before until I just looked them up. I like them. That colour of suede is typical (and traditional) Church's too. I'd just say that there are a hell of a lot of suede loafers around. You could quite feasibly get something as good from Barker or Grenson or even Loake, for a lot less money and similar quality.

    At the end of the day, it's your money, they're not the most expensive of Church's, and the only thing that really matters is whether you love them.

    The site I mentioned in my previous post has them in stock, but not in all sizes.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2013
  8. donjuan17

    donjuan17 Senior member

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    I ask because I'm a bit new to the "higher end" shoe business. The pair I'm looking at is not in the suede but in black. I could cop them for about half price too!
    If you've seen my posts elsewhere you'll see I'm looking for a decent loafer that will age well.

    -Thanks.
     
  9. Scalable

    Scalable Member

    Messages:
    19
    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2013
    Location:
    Sweden
    How do you guys manage to tie your shoelaces without having your neatly-tucked shirt get all pulled out of shape in the back?

    I do the military tuck with my shirts and always wear a belt, but whenever I bend down, I can feel my shirttails rising from beneath my trousers, eager to escape. When I get up, the shirt back has usually ballooned significantly.
     
  10. mimo

    mimo Senior member

    Messages:
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    Aug 16, 2012
    Well, they're a distinctive style, so if you love them, go for it. But in terms of quality, there are a lot of goodyear welted black loafers around, and as long as they are decent leather (not the really shiny "bookbinder" or "polished binder" as they sometimes say), they should last plenty if you look after them. Find a pair that you really love the look of, make sure the pics are good enough to see a little bit of grain in the leather, and if the pics are too small, then a kind of leaden dullness rather than plasticky shine, is a good sign.

    The standard goodyear welting process is a pretty good baseline of quality, whatever the brand. It's not as good as hand-welted (let's not even get into that now), but if you take care of them and don't wear them every day, they could last as long as you do with the occasional re-sole by a proper cobbler (or the manufacturer). The real variations will be in the quality of the upper leather, the durability of the sole, and the shape of the last on which the shoe is made. Other things like whether they put plenty of real cork in the sole for support you will notice once you've had a few different pairs.

    Anyway, if they're half price that sounds good! Just maybe shop around a bit - how they look and feel to you is more important than the brand.
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 14, 2008
    Location:
    Baltimore County, Maryland, USA
    
    While I'm a big fan of loafers, and have no particular problem with black shoes, I do think that black loafers are often a poor combination.

    The loafer tends to be a relatively casual dress shoe. Whereas black tends to lend formality to a pair of shoes. Consequently, black loafers just strike me as being self-contradictory. Like a "Hello Kitty" machine gun, or a rap version of the King James Bible. (Okay, perhaps not quite so glaring a contradiction as all that, but still...)

    I recognize that exceptions exist, of course. For example, I've long thought that horsebit loafers look best in black. But what sartorial guideline doesn't have the odd exception or two?

    Well, just my take on it. If the loafers were brown, I'd probably have no great objection to the. But in black... I wouldn't buy them. And the fact that you can get them for half price doesn't really change my opinion.
    --
    Michael
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. bennyy

    bennyy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Nov 28, 2011
    wow most descriptive answer to my question in a short amount of time. thank you
     
  13. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Dec 12, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    The simple answer is that your shirt does not fit you well. Where are the armholes of the shirt? They should be right under your armpit, which allows you 360 degree mobility, which also prevents untucking from simple movements.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. DandyStatsProf

    DandyStatsProf Member

    Messages:
    18
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2013
    Location:
    Ithaca, NY
    I just received a new Isaia houndstooth sportcoat from STP and am surprised about the amount of loose threads. It's 37% silk, 33% linen, 30% wool. Is this common for this blend?
     
  15. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Baltimore County, Maryland, USA
    
    1. Tying my shoes seldom requires me to bend over to the extent of doing toe touches. There's usually something upon which I can rest my foot, which elevates above the ground, thus making it easier to reach the laces.

    2. I tuck in my shirt, but not so severely that my ability to perform routine tasks is compromised. (I find little desirable, from either a functional or an aesthetic standpoint, in a shirt which fits my form so closely that I cannot tie my shoes.)

    Admittedly, this morning I put on loafers, and used an Omsorg shoe horn. This shoe horn is a couple of feet long, and I seem to recall it setting me back a buck and change, at Ikea. So no bending or stretching was required. If I ever mess up my back, I'm absolutely going with loafers and the super-long shoe horn.

    My shoe horn isn't pink - it's mostly black, with a little red and white - but other than that, this picture is pretty much what I'm talking about.

    [​IMG]

    --
    Michael
     
  16. franticvike

    franticvike New Member

    Messages:
    3
    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2013
    Location:
    Victoria, BC
    I recently picked up a chocolate (dark brown, but not really anywhere close to black) suit jacket with a medium grey pinstripe on clearance. No matching pants were available. Any thoughts on the easiest match for pants on something like that? My guess is a medium to dark grey, but I'm just starting to pay more attention to my clothes and the insight of more attuned minds would be appreciated.

    Cheers,
     
  17. biged781

    biged781 Senior member

    Messages:
    174
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2013
    Noob opinion incoming; I can't imagine pinstripes looking good on an odd jacket. I sat here for a few minutes trying to visualize it, but I can only see it working as a suit.
     
  18. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jan 19, 2010
    Location:
    DCish
    

    You're in good company here with that opinion.

    Pinstripes just don't work for odd jackets except in rare circumstances. Return the jacket.
     
  19. Scalable

    Scalable Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 15, 2013
    Location:
    Sweden
    They're fairly high on my shirts - high enough that I struggle to put my fingers in to straighten a t-shirt in my shirt-sleeve if I choose to wear one underneath. I have no trouble doing simple movements and hand waves at that armhole height and tucking. It's just that when I bend down, everything goes to hell - my trousers seem to catch on my thighs, too, as well as my shirt back flying out.
     
  20. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Dec 12, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    I like chalk stripe jackets with jeans, but that is about it.
     

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