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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Gosroth

    Gosroth Senior member

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    Tokyo
    I have a double-breasted 6x2 jacket in a loud black/white PoW check (no overcheck pattern).

    Any ideas for oddpants to wear with it? (Any ideas from slacks to jeans welcome. Things I've tried so far: grey flannel slacks, cream jeans, dark red cords). Not totally happy with any so far.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Orthodoxy dictates that a PoW check should always be a suit, never a sports jacket. Of course, this rule is frequently broken, often with much style.

    What makes yours difficult, though, is that it is double breasted. That's inherently more difficult. To be honest, I would avoid trying to wear it with jeans or similar at all - if it were single breasted and close fitting you could probably get away with mid blue jeans or chinos. But as it stands, it's just too strong for that. I'd say you were almost there with the grey flannel, but try charcoal flannel, or if you want something lighter, a finer wool in black. Add black whole-cut shoes, a light blue shirt and muted burgundy tie, a straight white or other solid PS, and you will have a very presentable business casual arrangement.
     
  3. My Red Socks

    My Red Socks Active Member

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    Paris / Internet
    And a SF Member will match his socks to what is beautiful ;)
     
  4. Gosroth

    Gosroth Senior member

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    Tokyo

    It is in fact a suit, but I am finding the occasions to wear it as such to be quite limited so I was looking for ways to get more millage out of it. :)


    Thank you for the insight, I agree fully with that comment. Pairing the strong check pattern with the double-breasted configuration was perhaps a little too much at once.
    Luckily I did not pay much so it was a rather affordable lesson.

    For some reason I'm still tempted to have another DB suit made up in a brown moderate size houndstooth, or plaid DB sportscoat... I'm a bad learner it seems. :p



    I tried both black and charcoal, black looks a little better imo.
    Very light blue shirt looks better then darker light blue.
    My only burgundy tie is wool knit, so I paired with a white silk square.
    I don't own any black wholecuts, but plain toe black double monks (that I wanted to find get more use out of as well) work really well.
    Sorry for the crappy photo tough.


    [​IMG]

    Overall it feels like a very sleek and balanced black-white-red-light blue combo.
    (The sleeves on the shirt I'm wearing are way too to short, but that's wholly a shirt-issue).

    I do regret that I had button stance put made so low, not sure what I think about the patch pockets.
    Considering having the tailor nip the jacket in 1-2 cm in the waist, but I'm not really sure how the DB should fit here. The inner button is really loose and could easily be an inch or tighter, but does the inner panel on the DB need/should be buttoned as tight as the outer button? A tailors thread question, I assume.
    Will need some decent black pants (wearing awful ones from awful black suit).


    Thanks for your input!
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2013
  5. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    You're welcome. That configuration makes it even harder because it's just so classic and formal. A 6/1 configuration seems more popular these days. Anyway, I'm glad you found another use.

    There is one thing though: maybe you should just wear it more as a suit! You have the slim figure to carry off the DB, and a PoW suit is awesome. So just wear it more! If you want to be a little more contemporary, then the full suit can be fine with tan or brown leather or suede shoes to give a less formal look - the knitted tie you've got there would fit into that look too, and the unusual patch pockets also make it a bit more casual.

    So maybe that's your answer: stop trying to do weird things with the jacket, and rock that suit as hard as you can - even if you're just going for coffee. Isn't that what classic menswear is all about?!
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2013
  6. Gosroth

    Gosroth Senior member

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    Location:
    Tokyo
    Quote:
    I've been strongly considering a 6x1 configuration, as I feel that the stronger V-shape would make my puny 32 inch chest look wider. Still looking for the right fabric tough.

    I think I'll try a bit that. I can always add a nice crew- or v-neck sweater underneath the jacket to take it down a notch in formality. Forest green, brown, pale lavender seems to work well.

    Burgundy sweater with PoW coat looks bad on me for some reason, even when I swap to a brown tie.
    No idea why, looks awesome in this BB add:

    [​IMG]

    (Now when I look at this again, I realize he's wearing a gray v-neck with burgundy trim... oh well)
     
  7. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    He's also standing next to a chick, which messes up the assessment process for most men. I don't like his sweater anyway.

    Try a navy or even bottle green crew neck (the V would be too close to the V in the suit). And tan shoes. And cool socks. You can do it. :)
     
  8. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

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    New York
    Noobie question from a senior member. One of my cheaper belts is starting to show significant wear on the buckle, seemingly out of nowhere. I really like the belt and don't want to replace it unless I have to. It has a brass buckle and I'm not sure how to clean it and remove the wear. I spent time on Google and searching here, yet the results were inconclusive.
     
  9. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    Is it really brass or just brass plated? Stick a magnet next to it. Brass is non-magnetic. And what kind of wear are you talking about? Is it tarnishing or something more serious?
     
  10. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

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    Harvey - it is solid brass. There is very minimal tarnishing, which I could handle. There are scratches, which appear to have just popped up. I worry if I strip it and refinish it, it will be uneven. I also don't know if the polish will apply unevenly with the scratches. If I have to replace it, it isn't a huge deal seeing as the belt is just an older Banana Republic belt; it would just be a pain in my ass since I actually like the shape of the belt and the buckle.
     
  11. eqcitizen

    eqcitizen Well-Known Member

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    Dec 4, 2012
    I know you asked Harvey, but i think i can help. I work with brass all the time (as a woodworker, brass tends to be used a lot for hardware). If the buckle is solid brass you can actually sand the belt buckle with very high grit sandpaper (the same kind that an auto finisher would use, P1000, 1500, 2000) or better yet, steel wool (it is graded from 0 to 0000, the latter being finer) to clean it and then polish it with brasso or even paste wax, it will come out looking great (with a slightly duller finish). If you want the higher gloss look, buy a can of lacquer (believe it or not, most "polished" metal is lacquered) and spray the buckle with a light coat (make sure you didnt wax it first). It should look like new.

    As long as the buckle is solid brass, and as long as you sand off the finish completely, it will not look uneven.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2013
  12. Touching Cloth

    Touching Cloth Active Member

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    Feb 14, 2013
    Opinions sought: If you could only get one suit, which of these would you choose?
    (Helps if you've had experience with more than one, obviously).


    Seymours (local San Francisco tailor)
    mytailor (Joe Hemrajani)
    Samuelsohn trunk show
    WW Chan
    Barney's house brand (Caruso, less desirable personally since fabric choices are limited to plain blue or grey)
     
  13. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Feb 12, 2012
    Question: Is this jacket waist measurement normal for a 40L jacket with these measurements?

    Shoulders - 19"

    Chest - 42"

    Waist - 40"

    Length - 32.5"

    Sleeves - 25"

    The trousers have a 36" waist measurement.
     
  14. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    Excellent advice.
    I fully endorse Samuelsohn.
    Doesn't sound too far off. If it's a little big that's probably a pretty easy fix for a tailor to take in.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2013
  15. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    Thanks, Harvey. I usually wear a 41L/42L Regent or Fitz taken in an inch and a half(from its unaltered state, of course). I hope this one can be taken in as much. What would you say is "appropriate" or expected in terms of jacket waist size? for a 40L?

    Would the 36" waist indicate it isn't a 6" drop?
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2013
  16. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    Expected would probably be around 38. I wear a 42/43L and usually a jacket waist right about 40 is what I get OTR.
     
  17. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    =[ Do you think it was altered? (I'm buying a preowned suit)
     
  18. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    Probably not. It's a lot more trouble to let out an OTR jacket then to take it in.
     
  19. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

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    THank you very much for the help, harvey. I hope my tailor can do it; he's one of the top 3 in the bay area, but I know that the suit itself may limit him.
     
  20. Harold falcon

    Harold falcon Senior member

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    What brand and model are the suit? You may be able to check online to see if it has been altered.
     

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