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Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by mfais, Jan 22, 2010.

  1. Chaconne

    Chaconne Senior Member

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    Interesting, I hadn’t thought about the workwear connotations when I saw the fit critiques.
     


  2. sandfourman

    sandfourman Well-Known Member

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    so im in dire need of some pants. wanting to try the relaxed/wide thigh, then kind of tapered leg look. however im not sure if im ready to jump into drop crotch territory. any recommendations?
     


  3. Tramlines

    Tramlines Active Member

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    What have you tried so far?

    It also depends on your shape and height - if you're 4ft, it's hard to pull off. If you're 7ft, it's just as awful. If on the other hand, you are perfectly average, it's a great way to develop a relaxed comfort style with great freedom of movement (tight skinny jeans must have been the most awful invention next to cropped trousers :) )

    I like the small handmade shuttle loom type companies like Orslow - they have one wide 12 inch USN type pants tapering to 7 inch hem model so it's not so common. This is the kind of territory of Neighborhood and Needles - more eccentric Japanese street wear type labels. Neighbourhood do extreme tapers and wide riding pant styles - as do USA based Monitaly with their own fabrics. Some of the tapers can be extreme - right down to 6 inch.

    I've always liked this look, but it seems to have shot up in price over the past 2 years - it's hard to find a pair for double digit £s. If you're really stuck, just find a wide loose baggy pair of good fitting ones, and bring it to good seamstress or alteration company and get it tapered: to do it properly, the inner seam has to be unpicked - so you probably don't wish to try and switch a 9inch flared bottom to 6 inch - a 2 inch taper is workable without destroying the ergonomic. Not all seamstresses can do triple needle stitching if you have a more complicated pair of trousers to work with.

    Good luck!
     


  4. sandfourman

    sandfourman Well-Known Member

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    haven't tried anything outside of a few pairs of rick pants all with drop crotch. sadly i'm in the midwest( wisco ) so we don't really have any kind of store that stocks anything. I'm starting to make my wardrobe more loose and relaxed as i think that's my style. the dream goal is yohji fits everyday but lord knows a college kid can't really afford that. As for height im 6'3 so i think it will look good on me. thanks for the recommendations!
     


  5. HollyJoint

    HollyJoint Senior Member

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    Cordury pants look good in slim fit? I wanted to buy a pair of corduroy pants, but I think it's okay to be stright fit, I'm not sure.

    I saw a levi's 511 slim fit corduroy, it's the same cut as the jenas, but I do not know if it will look good with corduroy, what do you think?[​IMG]
     


  6. Tramlines

    Tramlines Active Member

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    The most affordable solution is to find a girl

    Most affordable solution - find a girlfriend who is handy with a sewing machine :)

    I've never liked the idea of drop crotch: it goes against the design concept of loose and baggy for freedom of movement. The problem with off the rack (ready to wear) clothing - if the waist is right, the length is usually fixed for small niche designers making this kind of loose relaxed fit. I'm 6ft and the lengths just works for me at 33" inseam, still is a bit long for most of these niche brands, with 29" or 30" being average inseams for a 30", rising to 2 inches for a 34" or 36".

    All the best stores are in the USA! www.unionmadegoods.com being my favourite. They are called different things: here Monitaly call it a riding pant (styled after the military motorcycle pants of the mid-last century:

    https://unionmadegoods.com/product/monitaly-vancloth-sateen-riding-pant-in-khaki/

    It tapers dramatically from 13inch thigh down to 6.5inch cuff: great drape. But again, check the length fits for the waist - you can't alter one without the other!

    The Orslow (handmade, shuttlelooms, traditional Japanese high quality) are not as elegant, but more functional - hence the USMC:
    https://www.thebureaubelfast.com/shop/8225/light-green-used-herringbone-usmc-pant

    tapers down to 9inches - it's a bit wide and not as well tailored as the Monitaly.

    Same with Engineered Garments balloon pants - 9inches:

    https://www.thebureaubelfast.com/shop/8475/charcoal-wool-homespun-new-balloon-pant

    Needles, is more reknown for their eccentricity. They are a bit too extreme for my liking:

    http://nepenthes.shop-pro.jp/?pid=120516747

    But it is loose - and baggy and not drop crotch!

    If you're on a budget, your best bet might be to hunt around vintage clothes shops for ex-air force type clothing. The fabrics are usually thick heavy duty and the cuts very generous.

    I'm not a Yohji fan :)
     


  7. Tramlines

    Tramlines Active Member

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    Hollyjoint - are you trying to look like a 1970s maths teacher with these? :)

    (j/k)

    I'm not one for cords. If you're slim, they seem to stretch you even longer. This is slim fit remember. When you forget to turn them inside out in the washing machine, the cord lines start to break and then you end up picking the lines off like broken railway lines. Or maybe that's just me from the last time I wore cords when I was about 10 years old!

    They aren't loose: they aren't baggy either. Maybe you have some idea of what to wear it with - big horn rimmed glasses lol. That would look very cool with these.
     


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