^+1 To talk about Yohji again, I remember reading an interview where he said the reason that he doesn't wear that type of "golden ratio" tailored clothing is because it makes him look very small, diminutive... almost like a kid in a suit. As such, he likes a larger proportion because it gives him (in his words) more "presence." Seeing how he looks in his own clothes, and imagining him or anyone of his body-type/build wearing a more classically tailored item, makes me see his point. Obviously, what works for one doesn't work for another, which is why "rules" don't hold up across the board. A guy with Tom Ford's build obviously looks GREAT in TF's type of tailoring, but put TF in Yohji and he'll not look great either.