Artisanal Clothing and accessories discussion (MA+, CCP, Layer-0, Paul Harnden, Taichi Murakami, Bor

[curiouscharles]



Just send them an e-mail, great service there and they should be able to help you!

By the way, if you're interested in Araki Yuu, but can't find the right size, might be worth e-mailing Yuu-san directly or asking a store like Gullam to put in an order. He's a really nice dude and the clothes are made on such a small-scale it might be possible

how's the sizing nicely?

is it graded to the japanese market specifically?

assuming so as i see no real international stockists listed on their website.

 

[nicelynice]

The sizing felt fairly generous, actually, but I wasn't really paying close attention. Sorry I can't be of better help, I don't pay attention to the sizes when I try things on most of the time..

 

[Mojo1990]

Judging from select pieces I would hazard a guess and say that a size 2 would be an equivalent to a size 48 / M in European & North American markets.

Similar to Yohji Yamamoto I'm thinking

I will definitely email Gullam and also Yuu San!

Umm kinda of a silly question but does he speak English?

 

[Mojo1990]

Oh and a quick observation question.

This seems to be the soutain collar coat, C02 special ?

http://gullam.jp/shopping/28834.html

Only in green as apposed to thr black version sold in Gullam

 

[uzairh]

http://www.leparadox.com/fashion/archivio-ribot-capsule-i/
http://halemercantileco.com/blog/2016/07/16/archivio-j-m-ribot-capsule-i/

Theres also stuff/text on Lift's member's access pages.

 

[nyarkies]

But what exactly are the items of his collection? All I see are some random items, paintings, furnitures, and very few close up pictures of said clothing.

Seems to be in line with GBS or PH to which I remember nicely's wife asking (not sure if it was her or the exact words) what's the fascination of dressing similarly to a hobo from a previous time/era.

 

[spacepope]

that atelier coat is absolutely halal. looks like the same destroyed raw silk fabric my devoa lapelless blazer is made of––if that's the case it's a steal at that price

 

[Mojo1990]



But what exactly are the items of his collection? All I see are some random items, paintings, furnitures, and very few close up pictures of said clothing.

Seems to be in line with GBS or PH to which I remember nicely's wife asking (not sure if it was her or the exact words) what's the fascination of dressing similarly to a hobo from a previous time/era.

You should really consider looking into his work over at Style Zeitgeist. An entire forum is dedicated to his work and seasonal collections. GBS is not only the most experienced designer out there (has had the most exhibited collection of any American designer at the Paris show), but he also is (hands down) one of the most ethnically conscious pioneers in the business. He uses only the best sourced and most finest of fabrics in Italy. You've got to read his seasonal story books that often accompany the collections made to his select Stockists. Every piece has a story of its own. Japan loves him

http://www.stylezeitgeist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7432&page=46

And as for your comment about hobo's. The poor would often wear clothing neglected by the wealthy, and clothing was made to measure as standard practise in those days. The obvious irony of course is that a "hobo" of that generation dressed far better than most in today's society.

 

[Mojo1990]



that atelier coat is absolutely halal. looks like the same destroyed raw silk fabric my devoa lapelless blazer is made of––if that's the case it's a steal at that price

First time I've heard the term halal been used in this way

it certainly is a fantastic buy. You simply don't get elegant clothing of this level on the high streets

 

[nyarkies]

I have read that thread. I thought you were referring to Archivio to which I am comparing design aesthetics (from what limited images I saw) that seem similar to GBS. I'm not talking about construction or the designer's ethics just to be clear since I don't know much about Archivio and PH in regards to that aspect. Just the visual aspect for now.

 

[Mojo1990]

GBS often uses patent blueprints from 19th and even 18the century designs..depends on the seasonal style I'm thinking. Most of his runways have political environmentally conscious themes.

And I apologise but I'm not too sure who Archivio is. I made a response in regards to Araki Yuu. Anyways have a nice day guys

and happy FW shopping!!

 

[uzairh]



I have read that thread. I thought you were referring to Archivio to which I am comparing design aesthetics (from what limited images I saw) that seem similar to GBS. I'm not talking about construction or the designer's ethics just to be clear since I don't know much about Archivio and PH in regards to that aspect. Just the visual aspect for now.

I wait till I see I collections in person, then come to conclusions or aesthetic comparisons (if any). And it's nice to read about the designer's vision and craft; LeParadox does a good job there.

 

[nicelynice]

Forgive the hyperbole, but Archivio, Geoffery B. Small, and Araki Yuu are garments that truly need to be seen in person to understand them. On a surface-level, they all might appear aesthetically similar (as my wife likes to say, "you've bought the same black blazer five times!"), but the difference really does lie in the details. Some stores have photography that can do this justice, but the pictures on the internet of Archivio clothing belie nothing of the nature of the clothes.

All of them are handmade in the truest sense of the word, flaws and all. The production sizes of the brands makes Paul Harnden look like Zara. It's immediately apparent when you take a closer look at one of the garments the amount of time and love spent producing it - handsewn buttonholes, hand-written care labels, unique buttons, amazing fabric choices, the list continues.

This isn't for everyone - I don't own any garments from the three brands I listed. Some are a bit too wabi-sabi or old-timey or whatever for my tastes. Archivio might be a bit too high-concept for my taste (the overlock sewing machine seems like a useful invention!!) Still, it's great to see smaller brands like this taking off!

 

[curiouscharles]



Forgive the hyperbole, but Archivio, Geoffery B. Small, and Araki Yuu are garments that truly need to be seen in person to understand them. On a surface-level, they all might appear aesthetically similar (as my wife likes to say, "you've bought the same black blazer five times!"), but the difference really does lie in the details. Some stores have photography that can do this justice, but the pictures on the internet of Archivio clothing belie nothing of the nature of the clothes.

All of them are handmade in the truest sense of the word, flaws and all. The production sizes of the brands makes Paul Harnden look like Zara. It's immediately apparent when you take a closer look at one of the garments the amount of time and love spent producing it - handsewn buttonholes, hand-written care labels, unique buttons, amazing fabric choices, the list continues.

This isn't for everyone - I don't own any garments from the three brands I listed. Some are a bit too wabi-sabi or old-timey or whatever for my tastes. Still, it's great to see smaller brands like this taking off!

can't speak for the others, but Geoffrey spent 3 hours taking me through [only part of] his collection this past fashion week, and most of that time was taken up just explaining what medieval techniques he used to finish the fabrics [which were all made by different small families in tiny Italian towns who wouldn't even exist if he wasn't ordering from them anymore].

every button, and every material is actually handmade, and the fabrics are all hand finished as well, quite often with techniques which would be lost to human knowledge if he & his team weren't using them anymore.

some of which he would tell me about, and others he couldn't [for secrecy's sake].

he was telling me how chuffed he was to have gotten his button-hole sewing time down to 10 minutes a button hole... 10 freaking minutes a button hole!

it was probably the most inspiring experience of my adult fashion life to be quite honest.

but you're quite right, it does make paul harnden feel like zara afterwards - kind of spoiled everything else for me in a way.

 

[ddohnggo]

so what's altieri's involvement with archivio? seems to be run by a different individual with input from altieri?