Artisanal Clothing and accessories discussion (MA+, CCP, Layer-0, Paul Harnden, Taichi Murakami, Bor

[nyarkies]

True it doesn't look good or balanced on all but I've come to like the uneven silhouette. It is part of the design that appeals to me. Unless it really looks all that bad, that is...

Anatomical gets thrown there out a lot and I feel the term is overused. Even if his pieces are meant to be "anatomical", that's one aspect that I'm not completely convinced. A plain tee, which conforms to the wearer's body and gives more freedom of movement compared to any jacket out there, is more anatomical for me. That’s how I see it unless I'm mistaken with the use of the term.

 

[NGOStudio]

True it doesn't look good or balanced on all but I've come to like the uneven silhouette. It is part of the design that appeals to me. Unless it really looks all that bad, that is...

Anatomical gets thrown there out a lot and I feel the term is overused. Even if his pieces are meant to be "anatomical", that's one aspect that I'm not completely convinced. A plain tee, which conforms to the wearer's body and gives more freedom of movement compared to any jacket out there, is more anatomical for me. That’s how I see it unless I'm mistaken with the use of the term.

"gives more freedom of movement"

But I believe any anatomical design is best to built on a particular frame/body type. For instance, I love Rick's stuffs but I'm definitely not having his ideal body type - short and somewhat chubby. Leather or stretchable fabrics definitely help a lot but only to some extent. LEB might have done this through lightly shrinking his wool/knit fused leather. This combo does provide room for the leather to mold onto your body.

 

[t3hg0suazn]

shockingly there's some MA+ on yoox: https://www.yoox.com/us/men/shoponline/m.a+_d#/d=11411&dept=men&gender=U&page=1&season=X

 

[nyarkies]

I wonder if those items come from stores that couldn't sell their remaining stock and offloaded them for yoox to sell. We've seen some random CCP items there before. I've purchased some TVA items there as well. I'm sure there are more that pop out on yoox that gets sold and we're not aware of.

 

[oulipien]

I've seen GBS on yoox. There's been a reasonable amount of LUC there for a while.

 

[Zamb]

I wonder if those items come from stores that couldn't sell their remaining stock and offloaded them for yoox to sell. We've seen some random CCP items there before. I've purchased some TVA items there as well. I'm sure there are more that pop out on yoox that gets sold and we're not aware of.

Exactly how it usually gets there.

I'm not surprised its there, what surprising is the quantity of it and now the PRICE...........

 

[sinnedk]

Yoox knows what's up now it's not a free for all for cheap items anymore, sadly.

 

[NGOStudio]

Yoox knows what's up now it's not a free for all for cheap items anymore, sadly.

One advantage of Yoox that many luxury retailers lack, is a network local mules. From the beginning, Yoox even have local people to handle not only their logistics but also marketing and sale in SEA. In 2010, I tried to sell some overstocked luxury items directly from Italy to the Vietnameses. I also bought some from Yoox and just realized that Yoox rep/distributor was there to do direct sell through many platforms, forums included. And I also encountered heavy competition from those who moved bigger and more mixed inventories than me. Selling overstocked with fake in between seems to be a way to bank in Vietnam back then, and probably for the SEA region. After people had learnt to differenciate a bit, proxy shopping was another trend but now it also had become overcrowded. I knew several proxies in order to survive, they need to find their niche with black market's credits (excluding the fraudulent type but you could still net like 8-15% on a dollar through currency exchange). My acquaintance went to open a logistic company and eventually decide to do only b2b.

 

[LA Guy]

One advantage of Yoox that many luxury retailers lack, is a network local mules. From the beginning, Yoox even have local people to handle not only their logistics but also marketing and sale in SEA. In 2010, I tried to sell some overstocked luxury items directly from Italy to the Vietnameses. I also bought some from Yoox and just realized that Yoox rep/distributor was there to do direct sell through many platforms, forums included. And I also encountered heavy competition from those who moved bigger and more mixed inventories than me. Selling overstocked with fake in between seems to be a way to bank in Vietnam back then, and probably for the SEA region. After people had learnt to differenciate a bit, proxy shopping was another trend but now it also had become overcrowded. I knew several proxies in order to survive, they need to find their niche with black market's credits (excluding the fraudulent type but you could still net like 8-15% on a dollar through currency exchange). My acquaintance went to open a logistic company and eventually decide to do only b2b.

We worked directly with Yoox USA way back in the day, doing a few direct campaigns with them. They are out of that business now, and even moreso after the acquisition by net-a-porter. The issue with working with these companies is that overhead they incur. It's nearly as bad as working in academia, which was what I had done earlier. There is a lot of unnecessary, and frankly, not particularly, useful, intermediate reporting that they, like any other large organization, require. A lot of things become process, rather than, goal, driven, especially when you have multiple even more bureaucracies all looking to pad their asses.

 

[NGOStudio]

We worked directly with Yoox USA way back in the day, doing a few direct campaigns with them. They are out of that business now, and even moreso after the acquisition by net-a-porter. The issue with working with these companies is that overhead they incur. It's nearly as bad as working in academia, which was what I had done earlier. There is a lot of unnecessary, and frankly, not particularly, useful, intermediate reporting that they, like any other large organization, require. A lot of things become process, rather than, goal, driven, especially when you have multiple even more bureaucracies all looking to pad their asses.

You meant the 3rd party regional agents right? I'm not sure how Yoox picked these people but if they got the right people with experience, they pay a very efficient import tax rate and could also avoid income tax, so it could be an advantage. However, I believe the region was not Yoox's strongest growth but it might be something they explored. You are probably right as I don't see much of their presence among Vietnamese shoppers today.

 

[Wunderkammer]

Hello everyone,

I am a newbie on posting on SF. Please be kind with me !
I discovered few months back some new artisanal garment brands on SF and in few stores in Paris.
Search and Want to Buy casual shirts in size S or XSmall from these artisanal brands :
- Archivio JM RIBOT
- Geoffrey B. Small
- Garment Reproduction of Workers
- Araki YUU

+ why not trousers and jackets (S/XS)

Also OK with Paul Harnden or Elena Dawson.

Open to all offers in PM.

Cheers,

 

[newp]

Have you seen Araki Yuu in Paris? I haven't heard anyone stocking it in Europe.

 

[Wunderkammer]

Have you seen Araki Yuu in Paris? I haven't heard anyone stocking it in Europe.

No Araki Yuu in Paris unfortunately but a friend of mine came back from Tokyo with an awesome lab coat.
Araki Yuu only produces few quantities (only sold in Japan and US). Maybe try to buy a shirt from him on Gullam via proxy.

 

[newp]

No Araki Yuu in Paris unfortunately but a friend of mine came back from Tokyo with an awesome lab coat.
Araki Yuu only produces few quantities (only sold in Japan and US). Maybe try to buy a shirt from him on Gullam via proxy.

I've never heard about anyone stocking it in the US either. I have seen it in Gullam, nice clothes but I can't get rid of the feeling it's being "inspired" by Geoffrey B. Small too much both in terms of design and means of production. It's not that no one has a permission to make clothes using locally sourced fabric, handmade and very limited in terms of quantities of course, it's just if I like something I would go for the pinnacle of the industry and Geoffrey undoubtedly stands there at least for me. I highly recommend you to check out his work as well. L'ECLAIREUR BOISSY should have it.

 

[Wunderkammer]

I don't know about stocking in US. The sales agent told my friend that AY is only sold in Japan and US. Never checked about it.
You're absolutely right about GBS. Only saw few clothes at l'Eclaireur earlier this month. Bit pricey.
Always been into clothing but the older I get (ahahah 33yo) the more I tend to buy only few clothes a year but well made/told a story, an atmosphere ones if it makes sense. I started with P. Harnden, E. Dawson, C. Nemeth, Uma Wang (Thanks to Nathalie from L'Eclaireur Hérold).
Other brands you could recommend ?