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Artisanal Clothing and accessories discussion (MA+, CCP, Layer-0, Paul Harnden, Taichi Murakami, Bor

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by nicelynice, Aug 20, 2015.

  1. Mojo1990

    Mojo1990 Senior member

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    United Kingdom
    

    I'm in talks with Ryne at the moment for a pair of trousers. The expense is well worth it when I consider what it is I'm investing in
     
  2. fistinyoface

    fistinyoface Senior member

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    If anyone's interested, I've got a L'maltieri labcoat for sale. Size 2, cotton jersey, with interior pocket, and with tags. A little small on me, so I'm afraid I have to let it go. [​IMG]

    edit: I've also got a pair of cropped light cotton pants and a heavy cotton long sleeve in bordeaux for the Altieri enthusiasts out there. Both size 2 as well.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2016
  3. coolron

    coolron Senior member

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    What does a size 2 translate to?
     
  4. fistinyoface

    fistinyoface Senior member

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    Generally a 46/small.

    I've got some other things I'm finally listing up too. Taking pics now. If anyone is interested in clothing in small (46/48) sizes and footwear in 43-45 from Devoa/IS/LUC/m.a+/Damir/Julius/CDiem family then hit me up on the ol' pm or check Indiana Jones and The Holy Cup by the weekend. I'm pretty fucking lazy, so you may get a good deal.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2016
    2 people like this.
  5. nahneun

    nahneun Senior member

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    hey its me ur brother
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  6. coolron

    coolron Senior member

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  7. arnoldpettibone

    arnoldpettibone Senior member

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    those are "carpe diem", just not from altieri
     
    2 people like this.
  8. coolron

    coolron Senior member

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  9. nyarkies

    nyarkies Senior member

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    This is a long read but I wanted to share my feedback with ordering from Ierib. Lots of photos too. I will edit them with spoiler tags later as I'm using my phone to post this.

    So I wanted to get a collared leather jacket and got a CCP scarstitch previously. Unfortunately, I found the body length to be short and looked weird when I wear it zipped with an untucked shirt. I always had to tuck my tee which I don't like. So I got rid of it and looked for an alternative. I saw Rei Tanaka's works, also known as Ierib, thanks to @nicelynice referencing him on one of his old posts. On his website, it said bespoke but I wondered if he can make the jacket I'm looking for just through email and my measurements. He already previously made collared jackets although some aspects of the design I wanted to change for my jacket.

    I emailed him and good thing he can make the jacket without me being physically present. The process was getting my current height and weight, size I wear on artisinal/designer jackets I have, and photos while wearing those jackets. From there, he made a canvass toile for fitting which he shipped out to me. I had to send him photos of wearing the toile and feedback on the fit. It was pretty spot on except I asked to lower the armholes a bit as it was too high. As for the leather, I wanted black horse leather and without those deep grains and too much distressing. For those who have seen his jackets on instagram, you know what I'm talking about. I also wanted the pockets to be on the side seam with zippers and without that extended leather ala CCP pockets that you see on his jackets. As with bespoke clothing (semi-bespoke in this case maybe?), there are some limitations to how far you can customise and in this case, it was the sleeve cuffs. I wanted to have zippered cuffs as opposed to his unique cuffs with some sort of knob. No go on that but I understand since it seems a feature that you can identify his work with. Not a deal breaker.

    The whole process from the initial inquiry to receiving the jacket took 5 months with the whole process only done by Rei himself. It could have been sooner but he went to some of fashion week events. Payment was the inital half on commission and the final half upon completion. There was an extra cost for the pattern modification and added zippers for the pockets.

    Here are some fit pics. Note the jacket is still very stiff and will take time to break in. Very minimalist in design.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Some details:

    Sleeve cuffs: turn the knob and it opens. Push it back in and it locks again. The sleeve hem is folded over and quite clean with no visible stitches. I really like how it looks

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Some grain visible seen up close:

    [​IMG]

    Antiqued custom zipper pulls with the logo printed on them. They are quite thin and light but I think very durable. Not something that will break. Zipper teeth remind me of Layer-0.:

    [​IMG]

    Collar and lining. He used 50% silk 50% cupro material. 3 internal pockets:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The jacket is around 5 lbs with horween horse leather used. It was object dyed according to the tag. I could see some brown undertones when I look closely at it. Just to note, he forgot to do zippered pockets as I have requested. I pointed that out when he sent me photos prior to mailing the jacket. He said he will make a new one with the correct details but I said I'm fine with what has been made. So Rei refunded the cost of the zipper pocket and the labor that would take to install it. Also, he gave me a free wallet made from horse butt leather for the mistake he made. All in all I'm very happy with the jacket and the process was easy. He can communicate in English so there wasn't a problem with that. I recommend his work if you fancy what he has done.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2016
    29 people like this.
  10. skeen7908

    skeen7908 Senior member

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    Nice

    What are the base models he can work from ?

    I've seen like a parka before with a hood that looked cool
     
  11. nyarkies

    nyarkies Senior member

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    If you check his instagram, you'll see his old works and some other designs. I guess it's best to ask him what you can modify (collar, zipper placement, overall style) since I haven't explored all the options. I just wanted something simple. Although, I am trying come up with a design for my next commission. I probably want to get something in reversed horse with a little grain/distressing and utilize the dyeing process he is trying out which is using leather dye then overdyeing with Japanese ink... I think.
     
  12. Auximenes

    Auximenes Senior member

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    @nyarkies very nice, the fit looks really good on you. I like that much more than CCP tbh. I ve always been curious about Ierib. He was in Tokyo a few weeks ago to give a chance to people from around here to see and try his stuff out, but i couldn t make it. Thx for sharing
     
    2 people like this.
  13. nahneun

    nahneun Senior member

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    spectacular work. thanks for sharing
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. nyarkies

    nyarkies Senior member

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    My pleasure @Auximenes :marchal:
     
  15. coolron

    coolron Senior member

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    Damn, that looks really good!
     
  16. skeen7908

    skeen7908 Senior member

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  17. nicelynice

    nicelynice Senior member

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    Fukken incredible!! Thanks for sharing, awesome process with an awesome result. Looks great on you. The jackets aren't my style, but thinking about a wallet or bag!
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Graemsay

    Graemsay Senior member

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    Nice jacket @nyarkies . I suspect that it'll age really well, particularly as it sounds like a tea core style leather.

    I haven't seen Ierib before, but I do like the leather peacoat on the web page an awful lot...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  19. nyarkies

    nyarkies Senior member

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    Thanks for the feedback guys :slayer: I've found myself wanting to try what these new artisans have to offer. Although, I don't have much knowledge on what is out there except what I read here and on other fora.

    @Auximenes and @nicelynice you guys are based in Japan. You have easy access to a trove of these artisans :D I find the one piece Ierib backpack really interesting. The guy makes other leather stuff like shoes and hats. His derbies has this style where the laces go through the heels. Must be difficult to thread the laces through if you want to replace them.
     
  20. Mojo1990

    Mojo1990 Senior member

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    Location:
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    Is anyone interested in Elena dawson trousers (with suspenders)? Size S which is equivalent to a size 48-50

    Edit* sorry guys I've sent them back
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2016

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