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Article from The Rake: how to break the rules

Nicola

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Originally Posted by dasai
That would be what we call the "hips", and it really ought not to be the narrowest point; if it is, then you are probably morbidly obese. .

If your hips are above your hip bones then something is really wrong.

11e.gif
 

Nicola

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Originally Posted by aj_del
^^ Really, then the waist will be lower than the navel ?

In this pic, the buckle of the belt can be seen around the lowest button. So either the trouser rise is short by 3-4 inches or the buttoning point needs to be lowered by the same amount ? Seriously ?


I can't tell for sure with that picture but the pants look low.

Navel / waist depends on your body. Bend over to the side. Your body will bend at your waist. Your navel isn't always that point.
 

JensenH

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Trini, good article, thanks for posting.

Originally Posted by Nicola
Memorial day isn't it?

The period between Labor day and Easter is cool to cold (non-summer) weather in the U.S.

The period between Memorial Day and Labor Day is "permissible" to wear white. But this rule is ridiculous as Florida, Hawaii, and many parts of Southern US have high temperatures even during the winter months.
 

aj_del

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So Nicola and amplifiedheat are saying that either trousers should be at the red line or his buttoning point should be at green line in these 2 pics ?
iccluI.jpg
iesUgY.jpg
 

Nicola

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With the jacket on I'm not sure how clear it is.

[
VivienneWestwoodAutumn201114.jpg


No idea what's up with his face
ffffuuuu.gif


VivienneWestwoodAutumn201123.jpg
 

Nicola

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If I'd pulled something B&W from the 1950s somebody would have complained it was history.

Westwood is old but at least it's this year -)
 

RSS

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Originally Posted by JensenH
Trini, good article, thanks for posting.



The period between Labor day and Easter is cool to cold (non-summer) weather in the U.S.

The period between Memorial Day and Labor Day is "permissible" to wear white. But this rule is ridiculous as Florida, Hawaii, and many parts of Southern US have high temperatures even during the winter months.

Then there is the West Coast ... with summer weather that often qualifies as a cold. After I moved to the Bay Area, I learend not to say, "I'll be a cold day in July before such-and-such happens."
 

Will

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Originally Posted by aj_del
So Nicola and amplifiedheat are saying that either trousers should be at the red line or his buttoning point should be at green line in these 2 pics ?

]


The trousers should be at the red line so the waist is covered (a lower buttoning point would destroy the look of the jacket).
 

Montauk

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Originally Posted by Will
The trousers should be at the red line so the waist is covered (a lower buttoning point would destroy the look of the jacket).
Wearing trousers at the red line would look ridiculous by all but the most die-hard cos-play zootsuiter. Because everyone's proportions are different, the "rule"--in the spirit of Crompton's original article--will be different. As a personal rule of thumb, I'm somewhat long torsoed, and generally feel best-dressed when my coat button is about 1" above my belly button and my trouser waistband/belt buckle is about 1" below it (i.e. suspended from my waist but not ON it). I find this prevents shirt from showing (even with buttoned quarters pulled back to accomodate a hand in the pocket) without making me look like a cartoon. AJ-Del looks like he might be similarly proportioned. I'd recommend a slightly higher trouser rise, but not up to the buttoning point. RL trousers used to be cut for exactly such a fit (until they drank the low-rise, flat front Kool-Aid, that is). Re extra high-rise trousers, I think a lot of us have at least a soft spot for them because they helped so many men look great 80 years ago. But that was in an era when a man didn't often take off his coat, and if he did, he generally still had a vest/waistcoat on. High-rise trousers look great and elongating in that context. Worn without those elements, however, they are a severe anachronism that only devoted wives and girlfriends can be asked to suffer. I mean, have you ever looked at your ass in those things? It doesn't look "bad" any more that breeches and hose do, but I woudn't want to wear either walking down the street. Like braces, true high-rise trousers are best left to 3 pc suit wearin' these days.
 

RSS

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Boys, boys ... hip-huggers are out! To be totally honest, they were never really in.
 

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