• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Article about neapolitan tailoring in wapo

jcusey

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 24, 2003
Messages
1,803
Reaction score
54
I've never heard of Luigi Cimmino, but I thought that this article about Neapolitan tailoring in the Washington Post was nonetheless interesting.
 

matadorpoeta

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2003
Messages
4,324
Reaction score
1
good read. the customer's name is "belladonna?" c'mon.
i believe a man's suit should not have any shoulder padding whatsoever. whoever invented those things? and why do people continue to wear them? the neapolitans have my esteem.
 

Alias

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2003
Messages
1,662
Reaction score
321
Shoulder pads probably help the jacket drape better off the shoulders. I know mine aren't exactly chiseled out of marble.
 

Sevcom

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2002
Messages
340
Reaction score
0
i believe a man's suit should not have any shoulder padding whatsoever. whoever invented those things? and why do people continue to wear them? the neapolitans have my esteem.
I like the pitched shoulder on Brioni suits just fine.
 

LA Guy

Opposite Santa
Admin
Moderator
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Messages
57,521
Reaction score
36,352
believe a man's suit should not have any shoulder padding whatsoever. whoever invented those things? and why do people continue to wear them?
Judicious use of shoulder pads can help shape and flatter an imperfect physique. Besides, most suits have at least a minimal amount of padding in the structure, even most Neapolitan ones. As in all things, good judgement needs to be used. Even shoulder pads, same as khakis and polo shirts, have a place in a guy's closet
wink.gif
 

matadorpoeta

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2003
Messages
4,324
Reaction score
1
Shoulder pads probably help the jacket drape better off the shoulders. I know mine aren't exactly chiseled out of marble.
the shape of the suit should relate to the shape of the man's body. many tailors will tell you that if you have one shoulder higher than the other, they can add more padding on one side for symmetry. this is the lazy way of doing it. the adjustment should be made when creating the pattern.

if you have small shoulders, like i do, that is all the more reason to avoid shoulder pads. they become like make-up; you'll look good with your jacket on, but when you take it off you look bad, like you were wearing a disguise.

my custom suits have been made without padding. the tailor may put something in there to aid construction, but if he does, it certainly doesn't "pad" the shoulder. my favorite suit is still the isaia i tried on a few months ago (which i could not afford)-no padding and the shoulder seam was on top of the shoulder, rather than jetting outward.

guys always say "i like my suit to look this way or that way" but to me the best ones are the those that make you look like you.
 

LA Guy

Opposite Santa
Admin
Moderator
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Messages
57,521
Reaction score
36,352
if you have small shoulders, like i do, that is all the more reason to avoid shoulder pads. they become like make-up; you'll look good with your jacket on, but when you take it off you look bad, like you were wearing a disguise.
...
uys always say "i like my suit to look this way or that way" but to me the best ones are the those that make you look like you.

Well, the best you possible. A good suit (and any well-suited piece of clothing) will accentuate your strengths and de-emphasize your weaknesses. BTW, your final statement only makes sense in the limited context of choosing clothing that is suitable to your physique, age, and personality. Don't be so peevish.
 

matadorpoeta

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2003
Messages
4,324
Reaction score
1
BTW, your final statement only makes sense in the limited context of choosing clothing that is suitable to your physique, age, and personality.
i agree. i meant it that way. though i'm not sure about the age part. if a sixty-year-old wants to dress like brad pitt, he is, in effect, expressing his personality.

as for the shoulder pad thing, it's just interesting to me that so few ever question the reasoning behind them. i'm sure 99% of men who have a suit never ask themselves "why are these shoulder pads here?" "are they necessary?" it is a convention that men's suits have them and therefore few think about it.
if a tailor were to ask if you'd like butt pads sewn into your pants, i suspect most men would say no. these same men wear shoulder pads without thinking twice about it.

just food for thought.
 

LA Guy

Opposite Santa
Admin
Moderator
Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2002
Messages
57,521
Reaction score
36,352
though i'm not sure about the age part. if a sixty-year-old wants to dress like brad pitt, he is, in effect, expressing his personality.

You've been living in LA too long - lol. Seriously, though, those older guys - a disproportionate number of whom are involved in the industry somehow - with the Botox and perma-tans, are just plain sad. There is something to be said for ageing gracefully.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 85 37.3%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 87 38.2%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 24 10.5%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 36 15.8%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 36 15.8%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,537
Messages
10,590,221
Members
224,267
Latest member
Greatdayz102
Top