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Article about neapolitan tailoring in wapo

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jcusey, Nov 11, 2003.

  1. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've never heard of Luigi Cimmino, but I thought that this article about Neapolitan tailoring in the Washington Post was nonetheless interesting.
     


  2. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    good read. the customer's name is "belladonna?" c'mon.
    i believe a man's suit should not have any shoulder padding whatsoever. whoever invented those things? and why do people continue to wear them? the neapolitans have my esteem.
     


  3. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Shoulder pads probably help the jacket drape better off the shoulders. I know mine aren't exactly chiseled out of marble.
     


  4. Sevcom

    Sevcom Senior member

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    I like the pitched shoulder on Brioni suits just fine.
     


  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Judicious use of shoulder pads can help shape and flatter an imperfect physique. Besides, most suits have at least a minimal amount of padding in the structure, even most Neapolitan ones. As in all things, good judgement needs to be used. Even shoulder pads, same as khakis and polo shirts, have a place in a guy's closet [​IMG]
     


  6. Stu

    Stu Senior member

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    Whoa. Did I just read that right? LA Guy saying khakis can be acceptable? LAG: Am I now going to read you saying loafers are OK for casual wear. VBG
     


  7. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    the shape of the suit should relate to the shape of the man's body. many tailors will tell you that if you have one shoulder higher than the other, they can add more padding on one side for symmetry. this is the lazy way of doing it. the adjustment should be made when creating the pattern.

    if you have small shoulders, like i do, that is all the more reason to avoid shoulder pads. they become like make-up; you'll look good with your jacket on, but when you take it off you look bad, like you were wearing a disguise.

    my custom suits have been made without padding. the tailor may put something in there to aid construction, but if he does, it certainly doesn't "pad" the shoulder. my favorite suit is still the isaia i tried on a few months ago (which i could not afford)-no padding and the shoulder seam was on top of the shoulder, rather than jetting outward.

    guys always say "i like my suit to look this way or that way" but to me the best ones are the those that make you look like you.
     


  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Well, the best you possible. A good suit (and any well-suited piece of clothing) will accentuate your strengths and de-emphasize your weaknesses. BTW, your final statement only makes sense in the limited context of choosing clothing that is suitable to your physique, age, and personality. Don't be so peevish.
     


  9. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    i agree. i meant it that way. though i'm not sure about the age part. if a sixty-year-old wants to dress like brad pitt, he is, in effect, expressing his personality.

    as for the shoulder pad thing, it's just interesting to me that so few ever question the reasoning behind them. i'm sure 99% of men who have a suit never ask themselves "why are these shoulder pads here?" "are they necessary?" it is a convention that men's suits have them and therefore few think about it.
    if a tailor were to ask if you'd like butt pads sewn into your pants, i suspect most men would say no. these same men wear shoulder pads without thinking twice about it.

    just food for thought.
     


  10. vero_group

    vero_group Senior member

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    Actually, I could use some butt pads.
     


  11. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    You've been living in LA too long - lol. Seriously, though, those older guys - a disproportionate number of whom are involved in the industry somehow - with the Botox and perma-tans, are just plain sad. There is something to be said for ageing gracefully.
     


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