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Are these shoes shell cordovan?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The Iowan, May 29, 2015.

  1. The Iowan

    The Iowan New Member

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    Yesterday I purchased this pair of Allen Edmonds Oxford shoes from the Salvation Army for a mere 7 dollars. I have no clue whether or not these are shell cordovan or calfskin. I have the intention of selling them to somebody that will appreciate these shoes for what they are I don't want to call them shell cordovan if they are not but if they are I know they are worth much more. [​IMG]

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    If anybody know what type of leather they are, it is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
     


  2. JSO1

    JSO1 Distinguished Member

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    What is the code inside the shoe?
     


  3. The Iowan

    The Iowan New Member

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    It's hard to read the code. I can read the shoe size 10 1/2 B. You can tell that there's code there but its hard to read it.

    What would the code usually be if they are shell v. calfskin?
     


  4. JSO1

    JSO1 Distinguished Member

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    Take more pictures of the vamp and creases in brighter light and with flash.
     


  5. The Iowan

    The Iowan New Member

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    I'm at work right now so not able to take photos at this moment. What do you look for, I know the creasing gives it away but what exactly about the creasing and the "microcreasing" means its not shell.

    Is microcreasing just when you bend a shoe and a bunch of little "cracks" appear in the crease and spread slightly. I'm leaning towards these being shell since it just bends and doesn't have the little cracks that come out from the main bend.
     


  6. JSO1

    JSO1 Distinguished Member

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    Basically what you're looking for are whether there are lines of creasing within the rolls of the shoe.

    Shell will "roll" but will not "crease" - i.e., you should not see individual lines appear in the rolls. From looking at your pictures more closely, it does appear that there is actual creasing in the rolls, which leads me to believe that they are not shell.

    Additionally, the smoothness around the eyelets suggests to me that they are not shell. Shell shoes tend to "bubble" at the eyelets, a bit, whereas calfskin shoes are perfectly flat around the eyelets. Yours appear to be nice and flat around the eyelets, without any "bubbling."

    Another hint is the heel. Assuming it has not been re-soled/re-heeled, AE shell shoes will come with a dovetailed heel.

    If you took pictures with the flash on, especially of the vamp creases and the eyelets, we could figure it out for sure, but right now I'm leaning towards concluding that they are calf, not shell.

    Post up some more photos!
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2015


  7. Watchman1

    Watchman1 Distinguished Member

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    In short, these do not look like shell cordovan.

    The third pic from the top is a dead giveaway.

    Calfskin my friend.

    Thanks.
     


  8. Son Of Saphir

    Son Of Saphir Distinguished Member

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    Not shell cordovan
     


  9. JSO1

    JSO1 Distinguished Member

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    Me agree
     


  10. pmestrad

    pmestrad Senior Member

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    Did not want to start a new thread for this. Got these AEs off of Ebay a bit ago. I have never owned cordovan shoes and was just looking for some opinions on whether or not these are. Thanks!


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  11. JSO1

    JSO1 Distinguished Member

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    The wrinkling in the creases suggests to me that these are corrected grain or calfskin (more likely the former than the latter), not shell cordovan.
     


  12. joman8390

    joman8390 Well-Known Member

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    I was hoping for the help determining whether or not these shoes are shell, the code on the shoe indicates that they are shell but the creasing is leaving me with doubts.
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  13. joman8390

    joman8390 Well-Known Member

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    Bump
     


  14. JRas

    JRas Member

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    I agree with you that the creases don't look quite like shell creasing or groves. Are these vintage Florsheims? Maybe a photo of the code and insole labeling would be helpful to determine if it shell or not since current Florsheim models aren't up to par from previous generations. Can't really say so myself, but the fine creases look more like corrected grain to me, just a hunch.
     


  15. joman8390

    joman8390 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the input, they are vintage Dexters, another old American brand. Here are some more pics:[​IMG]

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