Are there any reasonable bespoke shoemakers?

[AnGeLiCbOrIs]

Originally Posted by oscarthewild

Except for the lucky few
http://www.boston.com/news/education...pus/?page=full

Lucky fellow. He must get pretty tired out.

 

[jmonroestyle]

I have a very hard foot to fit, with a narrow heel and wide toe. Just about every RTW shoe is a compromise in some way for me - cramped toe or slipping heel.

I have a foot that is similar to yours in shape. For many years I was convinced that there were no RTW shoes I could wear that would come even close to fitting properly, so I wore only my custom made cowboy boots and lace up ankle boots.

After what I learned from this forum and some expensive trial and error, through internet purchases, I found a number of shoes made on lasts that are better suited to our shaped feet.

I have found that all the Allen Edmonds shoes and Italian shoes I have tried, pinched in the toes and were too big in the heels.

Here are some shoe companies and last #'s that have wider toe boxes, and narrower heels.

Alden of New England- Copley, Plaza, and Barrie lasts

Alden Foot Balance System- Truflare last, Trubalance last

Barkers of England- 29 last

Trickers-6038 last

Cheaney-last #'s 175, 3184,
3485

Crockett and Jones- 341 last

Grenson- 96 last

In general UK lasts run a little longer and wider than a standard American last when dropping 1/2 size down. For exmple most American lasts in a size 11.5 D are too short for me and usually too narrow. However, a UK 11 E or F (depending on the brand) is about a US 11.8 which gives me that little bit of extra toe room that makes all the difference.

Alden lasts generally run a little longer than standard US sizing also, making them fit more like UK shoes.

Finding the perfect fit for anyone in a RTW shoe, ranges from difficult to impossible for many people. Our feet often change during the day, so a compromise fit is often the best that we are going to get. Often a heavier or thinner sock can put the shoe in the wearable column, as well as some stretching in certain places. I never can just buy a shoe and wear it right out of the box without doing some fine tuning of the final fit.

I would think that with our shaped feet, our best bet is lace-up shoes, as they are the most adjustable. Slip-ons and monk straps I would think are best avoided in our search for good fitting shoes.

Good luck with your search.

Jess

 

[palladio211]

jmonroestyle,
Thanks for your detailed and thoughtful comments. I will try to seek out some of the shoes and lasts you mention.

I agree that lace ups work better, but a man should not have to live by lace ups alone! I would really like to have some shoes in other styles, with better leather or antique finishes.

I finally found a beautiful pair of Santoni slip ons that fit well. I went back to buy a few more pairs and was told they were discontinued (they aren't, according to the HQ people in Italy). They sold me what they called a similarly lasted replacement, but I couldn't stand to wear them for more than two hours. Now I have a $1000 set of Santoni boat anchors in my closet, next to a number of other expensive misfits that I seldom or never wear.

At some point I figured if I want to branch out of my old Church's lace ups and various cowboy/riding boots, I'll have to go the bespoke route. I could wear a $1000-1500 shoe in the real world, but $3000+ is outside my comfort zone. A Ferrari Enzo may be a great car, but I wouldn't want to drive or park one on NYC streets. I wouldn't want to confront sidewalk grates, slush puddles, sharp edges on airline seats, etc. with a $5000 pair of bespoke Lobbs either.

 

[Rosenbaum's]

Originally Posted by palladio211

jmonroestyle,
Thanks for your detailed and thoughtful comments. I will try to seek out some of the shoes and lasts you mention.

I agree that lace ups work better, but a man should not have to live by lace ups alone! I would really like to have some shoes in other styles, with better leather or antique finishes.

I finally found a beautiful pair of Santoni slip ons that fit well. I went back to buy a few more pairs and was told they were discontinued (they aren't, according to the HQ people in Italy). They sold me what they called a similarly lasted replacement, but I couldn't stand to wear them for more than two hours. Now I have a $1000 set of Santoni boat anchors in my closet, next to a number of other expensive misfits that I seldom or never wear.

At some point I figured if I want to branch out of my old Church's lace ups and various cowboy/riding boots, I'll have to go the bespoke route. I could wear a $1000-1500 shoe in the real world, but $3000+ is outside my comfort zone. A Ferrari Enzo may be a great car, but I wouldn't want to drive or park one on NYC streets. I wouldn't want to confront sidewalk grates, slush puddles, sharp edges on airline seats, etc. with a $5000 pair of bespoke Lobbs either.
Palladi211,

A pair of Koronya bespokes should do it for you. Priced at about $1,500.00.

 

[palladio211]

Originally Posted by Rosenbaum's

Palladi211,

A pair of Koronya bespokes should do it for you. Priced at about $1,500.00.

Perfect thanks. They look great on the website and that price is within my range. Plus it gives me an excuse to visit Budapest, which is always a good thing!

Do you know how long it take to get the fittings done? Could I do what is necessary during a 3-4 day stay in Budapest?

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by palladio211

Perfect thanks. They look great on the website and that price is within my range. Plus it gives me an excuse to visit Budapest, which is always a good thing!

Do you know how long it take to get the fittings done? Could I do what is necessary during a 3-4 day stay in Budapest?

You can also get measured and have the fittings in Brooklyn (at Rosenbaum's)

 

[MarcellHUN]

A first fitting can be reacherd in a few days, if you give me your approximate size in paris point.

 

[palladio211]

Originally Posted by MarcellHUN

A first fitting can be reacherd in a few days, if you give me your approximate size in paris point.

I don't understand how you can do a first fitting with just a standard size. I have a rather difficult to fit foot (narrow heel, wide toe, high instep) so standard sizes/lasts usually don't work for me.

I'm not doubting you, I would just think that one would need at least an outline of the foot and some instep measurements to do any fittings.

Also, how many fittings are generally required?

 

[palladio211]

Originally Posted by MarcellHUN

A first fitting can be reacherd in a few days, if you give me your approximate size in paris point.

Also, for the bespoke shoes do you make a custom last?

 

[CunningSmeagol]

Originally Posted by Concordia

Maftei from Vienna has a sales rep at Wellesley College, of all places.

They charge about $1K. I intend to find out if this is too much.

Me too. On thursday

 

[Concordia]

Originally Posted by RunningBeagle

Me too. On thursday

You must be persuasive. He blew me off until finals were over.

 

[the.chikor]

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

But......Norway is about the most expensive country in Europe.
Although, I do not know Myhre's prices, they won't be bargain basement.


Bespoke last year started at about $3000 USD, plus additonal $600 for shoe trees.

 

[MarcellHUN]

Originally Posted by palladio211

I don't understand how you can do a first fitting with just a standard size. I have a rather difficult to fit foot (narrow heel, wide toe, high instep) so standard sizes/lasts usually don't work for me.

I'm not doubting you, I would just think that one would need at least an outline of the foot and some instep measurements to do any fittings.

Also, how many fittings are generally required?

I start from the end: normally 1, sometimes 2.
Normally our customers need custom lasts - no problem with it. If we meet the first day, you arrive, I will measure your foot, and make your last in the next day. You will just get a shoe to try (not to wear - a few days is not enough for that). I would need your size to prepare the upper in advance. With the test shoe, we will just check your last - fits or not?

 

[MarcellHUN]

Originally Posted by palladio211

Also, for the bespoke shoes do you make a custom last?

Sure - you will have your custom last in our shop for your next orders.

 

[vitaminc]

Originally Posted by MarcellHUN

A first fitting can be reacherd in a few days, if you give me your approximate size in paris point.

Do you offer bespoke services for potential customers outside of Budapest?