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Are there any MTM companies out there that will copy a suit/coat that you supply them with?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dreamspace, Aug 25, 2013.

  1. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    I've been hunting for them on Ebay since last year, but there are never any in solid Navy or Charcoal in 40R, that fits my shoulders. The type A's are too wide over the shoulders...which again usually leads me to MTM.
     
  2. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Menlo Park, CA
    

    The soft Roman cut? I am not familiar with it. Any pictures?
     
  3. OxxfordSJLINY

    OxxfordSJLINY Senior member

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    Coram, New York, United States of America, 11767
    

    The Soft Roman Italian cut's construction is 25% firm, 75% soft. The Soft Roman Italian cut completely hides all bodily imperfections-and does a perfect job of it, just like the Milanese Italian cut (whose construction is 90% firm, 10% soft). At the same time, the Soft Roman Italian cut completely brings out all of the good things about the body-and does a perfect job of it, just like the Neapolitan Italian cut (whose construction is 10% firm, 90% soft).

    Despite the Soft Roman Italian cut's construction being 5/6 as soft and 2 1/2 times firmer than the Neapolitan Italian cut's construction, the Soft Roman Italian cut is just as comfortable, pajama like and sweatsuit like as the Neapolitan Italian cut.

    For pictures, go to the websites for the three Caraceni operations The website addresses are www.a-caraceni.it (A. Caraceni Milano), www.tommyegiuliocaraceni.com (Domenico Caraceni Roma) and www.caracenisartoria.net (Ferdinando Caraceni Milano). Other websites to go to for pictures are www.sartoriacarbone.it (Sartoria Carbone) and www.sartoriaceletano.it (Sartoria Celetano). These 5 bespoke tailors do the Soft Roman Italian cut (and a phenomenal job of it, I might add).
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2013
  4. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    I didn't notice any pics of their house style on their sites.
     
  5. Isbister

    Isbister Senior member

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    Neither did I - I've got no idea what he's talking about, it all sounds like varieties of ice cream.

    I'm a little sceptical of the extravagant promises concerning bodily imperfections - nor does the 'pajama like and sweatsuit like' modifier inspire enormous confidence in the Neapolitan cut.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2013
  6. katabatic

    katabatic Senior member

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  7. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Here are the pictures of the SartoriaCarbone House Style:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/40084174@N07/sets/72157620840847771/show/with/3971565557/

    Not to my taste. Too much shoulder. I have an eight year old Battistoni ( Roman) RTW sport coat
    which has a more natural shoulder than the examples shown, and it is too structured for me.


    http://www.styleforum.net/t/341032/san-francisco-sf-meetup-thursday-april-4th-beckett-robb/120


    Sixth photo down, I am the bearded Senior Citizen on the left . Note the shoulder on my jacket.
    That is my preference.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2013
  8. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    This generally isn't a good idea with Bespoke, MTM has to be a nightmare. An MTM factory is about volume, there may be many options but those options are not unlimited for practical reasons. Doing something like using a different canvas would choke up the production and at the end of the day someone has to source that canvas. Do they send someone to the garment district for half the day to source it? These things may not seem like a big deal but they all take time away from a time critical business. If you can work within the factories limitations you may be ok but remember Oxxxford is a super high end maker, those canvasses and processes are expensive for good reason and anybody replicating them will probably want paying as much as Oxxxford.
     
  9. OxxfordSJLINY

    OxxfordSJLINY Senior member

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    Coram, New York, United States of America, 11767
    

    Other than the roping in the shoulder, the Sartoria Carbone house style doesn't look anymore nor any less natural than you jacket, comrade.
     
  10. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Menswear style unlike womens wear style is a a matter of inches or centimeters, if you prefer.
    A roped shoulder makes all the difference in the world. And based on the Carbone photos,
    the shoulders are also extended as well as roped. What I do like is that Carbone hasn't fallen
    into the current fad of cutting short tight jackets. Their jackets have classical proportions.
     

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