Are Lasted Shoe Trees Worth It For Bespoke Shoes?

[Eustace Tilley]

I've been wondering about this for awhile. Given that English makers typically charge a significant amount for lasted shoe trees ($350-$450 for Cleverley and Fosters, $950 for Lobb), I'm wondering if there is any meaningfull difference if one were to save cash by using high quality RTW trees.

I imagine there isn't, but would like to hear other opinions on this matter?

 

[whacked]

$950 for pair of shoe trees? Jeeeezz...

 

[Gus]

I suppose if you had an odd shaped foot, it would be worth it. Otherwise a conventional last has worked well in some of my oldest shoes from the mid 80's.

 

[518aata]

I've been collecting trees made by D. Mackay, which were made in exact sizes and widths. Mackay trees were made of hard wood (birch?), and were sold to quite a few high end retailers, who generally put their own names on the trees.

I believe the company went out of business 10+ years ago, but you can find them on eBay for $10-$30 (depending on, in part whether a famous store's name has been stamped on it (Church, Gucci, Saks, etc.) There's almost always a pair or two listed, but the trick is, of course, finding pairs in your size.

I presume that a shoe tree made to specific size and width is still not as precise as a one-off, lasted tree, but, if you have a narrow foot, as I do, it's a lot better than the one-size-fits-most type of tree, and beats paying hundreds of dollars.

 

[RJman]

If you have a bespoke shoe -- a shoe made to the shape of a last made to suit your particular feet -- get the lasted trees. It'll help them retain their particular shape -- which was made to fit the particular shape of your feet.

 

[Manton]

Lobb's charge for lasted trees is outrageous, and not (so far as I know) justifiied by any real cost considerations.

The Cleverley charge is also high, but somewhat more reasonable. Lasted trees are made on special machines by one of two companies in Northampton. I visited one of them, but never got around to posting pics.

Bascically, it works like a combination lathe/key duplicating machine. Your last is put on one machine, where it is turned and little arms run over it in every direction. Those arms transmit that data to another machine with a "blank" (an oversized tree form) and the excess is shaved away from the blank until it is the shape of your last. There are few more steps, cutting it in two, hollowing it out, adding the hinge, etc.

This is the way all lasted trees are made, whether bespoke or RTW. But the crucial difference is that with bespoke, the entire production line gets interrupted. One-offs are not cost effective -- not for the shoemaker, who has to drive (or ship) your last to Northamton, then pay to have it shipped back, and not for the last company, which has to interrupt it's higher margin work for RTW clients.

I believe that lasted trees are essential for bespoke shoes, and don't understand why anyone would pay all that money for a bespoke shoe, and then jeopardize their unique shape by not getting lasted trees.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Thanks RJ and manton. A question - does G&Gs 1550 GBP price include the lasted trees?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Thanks RJ and manton. A question - does G&Gs 1550 GBP price include the lasted trees?

No, I think with trees is 1,700 or 1,740 or something like that.

 

[aportnoy]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Thanks RJ and manton. A question - does G&Gs 1550 GBP price include the lasted trees?

I have to admit that this extra charge gave me pause and somewhat soured my ordering.

Cleverley and Scafora both include trees in the base price.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by aportnoy

I have to admit that this extra charge gave me pause and somewhat soured my ordering.

Cleverley and Scafora both include trees in the base price.

Scafora certainly does, but I believe his shoe trees are not lasted (or at the very least, the ones I have seen - are yours lasted?). Cleverley charges 170 pounds for trees.

Thanks manton.

 

[A Y]

G&G bespoke shoes with trees are UKP 1750 without VAT: 200 for the trees, and 1550 for the shoes as mentioned by Manton. The 3-piece trees are more. There's a price list on their website.

I'd also always get the lasted trees with bespoke shoes.

--Andre

 

[aportnoy]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Cleverley charges 170 pounds for trees.

I completely missed this. I specifically asked George about this and he said they were included, or perhaps, I misunderstood.

 

[LabelKing]

I don't see why they don't just include them with the purchase--to create a pair of trees doesn't seem like a lot of extra work anyways.

 

[JamesT]

Originally Posted by LabelKing

I don't see why they don't just include them with the purchase--to create a pair of trees doesn't seem like a lot of extra work anyways.

+1. They had to make the last anyway; I'm sure copying it for a shoe tree isn't exactly a big deal.

That said, I'm sure if I ever went for bespoke shoes I would pay for the trees. I know I would regret not doing it. Not to mention that if I had a shoe custom made for my foot I would want the shoe trees to fit just as well.

I suppose not having the lasted trees is a bit like hanging a bespoke suit on a wire hanger.

 

[whoopee]

I thought about this recently when placing a bespoke order. I don't think lasted trees are necessary if your feet/shoes aren't oddly shaped and normal, non-spring-loaded trees fit well. I haven't noticed any shape distortion when using non-lasted trees in (non-bespoke) shoes under those conditions. If over time it did happen, the shoemaker can re-last the shoe when they're being re-soled.

That said, I still got the trees, as always. Might as well go whole hog.

BTW, I had thought that Scaforas trees were lasted but just checked mine and found the fit to be less perfect than my confirmed lasted trees. No detectable undue pressure, just a bit of space in the instep and arch. Doesn't bother me one bit.