Are "handmade" shoes handmade?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Nerkg, Feb 1, 2012.

  1. Nerkg

    Nerkg Senior member

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    Are handmade shoes sewn every stich by hand or are they hand crafted/burnished.. So forth and stitched my machine? and how where shoes made in say 100-200 years ago, are any made that way now?
     
  2. Naka

    Naka Senior member

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    Instead of posting something snarky, or feeding you probable misinformation, I'll instead ask that you do a search for a member on the Forvm called "DFWII". Please don't PM him, as he is no doubt extremely sick of answering the same questions over and over again, but read through his posts. He is one of the few members on this board that makes shoes, and if you take the time to read through his posts you will gain a thorough understanding of shoe construction.

    I'll also refer you to the Honourable COrdwainer's Company, where you will find more than enough resources to answer your questions.

    http://www.thehcc.org/

    Hope this helps.
     
  3. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Boxercise Toughguy

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    Are hand jobs really jobs? :confused:
     
  4. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Can the fly on a pair of pants really fly?
     
  5. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    No, they are tasks.
     
  6. Equus Leather

    Equus Leather Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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  7. jimmyshoe

    jimmyshoe Active Member

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    The most "handmade" shoes you can commonly buy are entirely handmade apart from the stitching on the upper. These will be described as bespoke shoes, or custom shoes, or handsewn shoes.
    They are made to order and are individual to each customer.
    It is possible to stitch a pair of uppers by hand, but it is very rarely done and looks 'agricultural'.
    Almost any shoe you buy ready to wear will involve machines in a factory. The quality can vary hugely, from the best (Edward Green etc) to despicable shockers from the developing world.
    Basically any shoe you buy which uses the word handmade is not going to be truly made by hand
    To see examples of true handsewn shoemaking, see the following blog

    http://carreducker.blogspot.com/search/label/construction methods
     
  8. Nerkg

    Nerkg Senior member

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    For wives they are
     
  9. Nerkg

    Nerkg Senior member

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  10. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Hey James!! Good to see you here.

    I thought I would post a couple of photos I was given permission by the Northampton Shoe Museum to use for educational purposes...

    These are known as the Attewell boot and were entirely handsewn in 1840 (1846...date of patent...Elias Howe invents the sewing machine), uppers and outsole.

    The tops were Morocco calf, if I recall correctly and I don't know if I ever knew what the vamps were made of.

    [​IMG]

    And the famous cloverleaf tongue

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012
  11. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    I might add that June Swann, Curator of the Shoe Collection at Northampton for many years, has catalogued and personally verified a number of pairs of boots both in the UK and in the US that were handsewn at incredible frequencies--up to 64 stitches per inch on both the upper and the welt.

    Someday I am going to visit Scotland and Britain and I will make a point...a pilgrimage to Northampton and hope that I can cajole my way to a viewing of that work.

    I envy you and Bengal Stripe and others with such easy access.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012
  12. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

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    Much as Spoo is finding with every manufacturer he uses, Not All that Glitters is Gold. Northampton has a nice museum, and a few factory outlets but little else. It is a largely grim post-industrial town. More than 6 hours there would send you running for greener pastures.
     
  13. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I couldn't comment, not having been there.

    But I do know that the Northampton Shoe Museum is highly-respected internationally and that June Swann is widely regarded as one of...if not the...foremost authority on shoe history in the world.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2012
  14. Nerkg

    Nerkg Senior member

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    So What makes Edward Green so good? there not even hand made? is it that they get better material than say allen edmonds or alden? or the craftmanship is better..and john Lobb, for 3000-5000 dollars they should be stiching those babies by hand, every thread. on a side note i cant stand how cordoven looks after it gets creased, anyone feel the same?
     
  15. pebblegrain

    pebblegrain Senior member

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    Edward Green sucks, stick to Bostonian.

    If John Lobbs were stitched by hand they would look like your grandma made them and they would also cost $7000. If you want inferior construction at more expense, I'm sure you can hire someone to hand stitch $7000 shoes for you.

    No one agrees with you on the cordovan creasing except for wright, iroh, and reevolving (good company).
     

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