Are full length darts going to look silly?

[longskate88]

So I had about 4 shirts made by an online tailor, and they fit very well except for some extra fabric that bunches behind my shoulder blades.

Dropped one at the tailor today. My usual tailor said there was nothing she could do, so I took it to another tailor who easily said she could fix it.

The shirts have half-length (normal?) darts starting at the bottom of the shirt and running vertically halfway up the back.

She is going to take in the extra fabric by extending the darts so they extend all the way from the bottom of shirt to the yoke. Will this look okay? I don't think I've seen full-length darts before.

Thanks!

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by longskate88

So I had about 4 shirts made by an online tailor, and they fit very well except for some extra fabric that bunches behind my shoulder blades.

Dropped one at the tailor today. My usual tailor said there was nothing she could do, so I took it to another tailor who easily said she could fix it.

The shirts have half-length (normal?) darts starting at the bottom of the shirt and running vertically halfway up the back.

She is going to take in the extra fabric by extending the darts so they extend all the way from the bottom of shirt to the yoke. Will this look okay? I don't think I've seen full-length darts before.

Thanks!

You are going to have to post pictures for a real answer. Darts have been discussed here many times. Some say they help slim things down, others insist a shirt can be slimmed enough just by altering the pattern. It all comes down to preference. I can't think of any situation where darts as long as you are saying are needed. It sounds like the side seams just need to be taken in. Get a new tailor and in all new shirts just get side pleats under the yoke.

 

[longskate88]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

You are going to have to post pictures for a real answer. Darts have been discussed here many times. Some say they help slim things down, others insist a shirt can be slimmed enough just by altering the pattern. It all comes down to preference. I can't think of any situation where darts as long as you are saying are needed. It sounds like the side seams just need to be taken in. Get a new tailor and in all new shirts just get side pleats under the yoke.

Actually the side seems can't be taken in, the waist is already snug. The extra fabric is only in the upper back, so I think besides extending the darts the other options would be taking in fabric at the shoulder seams, if possible.

What she's doing will work, my question is more about whether full-length darts are a standard thing...like you COULD put a dart diagonally across the chest of your dress shirt, but it wouldn't look right, get what I mean?

I found a pic, note how the darts reach all the way to the yoke:

 

[patrickBOOTH]

As in that shirt it is more common in casual shirts. It comes down to what you like. If it is a dress shirt and you are wearing it with a jacket nobody is going to notice, but no it is not common in a dress shirt and personally I wouldn't want it. I think dress shirts should look as clean as they can and minimal amount of seams and such.

What you are describing now seems like the yoke and shoulders are too wide.

 

[TheFoo]

That sounds ridiculous. There must be a better way.

 

[JT82]

^ agreed. It might be the only option at this point for the shirts in question, but on future orders I imagine the proper solution would be to reduce the upper back measurements. Darts are intended to remove fabric from the lower back.

 

[longskate88]

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

As in that shirt it is more common in casual shirts. It comes down to what you like. If it is a dress shirt and you are wearing it with a jacket nobody is going to notice, but no it is not common in a dress shirt and personally I wouldn't want it. I think dress shirts should look as clean as they can and minimal amount of seams and such.

What you are describing now seems like the yoke and shoulders are too wide.

They are dress shirts to be worn without a jacket or tie, I only dropped off one so I'll see how it turns out. I personally like the look of normal darts, I think more seams make it seem like the shirt was kind of built around your body, and I think it makes it LOOK like it fits better. Same idea with athletic gear, they love to add seams and contrasting panels of fabric in certain areas.

 

[longskate88]

Originally Posted by JT82

^ agreed. It might be the only option at this point for the shirts in question, but on future orders I imagine the proper solution would be to reduce the upper back measurements. Darts are intended to remove fabric from the lower back.

Thanks. Yes, compared to a better fitting shirt the shoulders and armholes are slightly too long....unfortunately I have 4 of them in my closet that could use the tailoring.

I'll see how this one turns out before taking in the others, I should have it Saturday.

 

[F. Corbera]

Sounds perilous if you are in the habit of walking backwards into rooms without a jacket.

 

[longskate88]

Originally Posted by F. Corbera

Sounds perilous if you are in the habit of walking backwards into rooms without a jacket.

Whew. I do leave the room at some point though, sounds unfortunate.

 

[F. Corbera]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

That sounds ridiculous. There must be a better way.

You mean like putting the long dart on the front of a jacket?

 

[gladhands]

Game, Blouses.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by F. Corbera

You mean like putting the long dart on the front of a jacket?

Did you have Mina neuter yours?

 

[F. Corbera]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Did you have Mina neuter yours?

No, mine have the long, lapped dart.

 

[dirtyturk]

i suggest the alternative, oft-mentioned yet rarely seen horizontal dart. This is taken around the entire circumference of the shirt around the chest and achieves the objective of raising the narrower waist section upward in effect tightening the fit around the chest area. now let me see if i can find a picture online... note: this is why i always order my shirts extra long to account for potential horizontal darting