Archibald London: true craftsmanship, no middlemen, Official Vendor Thread

[flx]

Or just make a true seamless whole cut

A seamless wholecut would be fantastic ? I'd definitely order it immediately.

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

Posting this here as well as ultra serious about having someone join.

I also wonder if there is anyone on the forum who understands what we are trying to do and our vision for this collection who might come on board in an official capacity to help us get there faster? Someone who understands these things already and is quicker to absorb the points made by all of you (so someone more knowledgable than us). It would flatten the learning curve, probably be more pleasant and engaging for all of you and it would let this person be a very real and important part (and stakeholder) of something I think is ambitious and quite special.

Some names from the top of my head...

@boot_owl @Rewiag @Xune

So many others but anyone remotely interested? The b

A seamless wholecut would be fantastic ? I'd definitely order it immediately.

Done HW03 confirmed after the jumper boot.

 

[Xune]

Some names from the top of my head...

You can hit me with a private message with some info on what you'd expect.

 

[EgoCamisas]

A seamless wholecut would be fantastic ? I'd definitely order it immediately.

I say a handwelted seemless wholecut Chelsea boot in Horween shell cordovan. That's where it's at!

EDIT: with a slightly chiseled last. I just pictured it in my mind and somehow I can't stop thinking of it.

 

[flx]

I say a handwelted seemless wholecut Chelsea boot in Horween shell cordovan. That's where it's at!

Also a fantastic idea (my wallet prob. wouldn't agree ?)

 

[EgoCamisas]

Also a fantastic idea (my wallet prob. wouldn't agree ?)

My wallet already hates me

 

[Rewiag]

Some names from the top of my head...

@boot_owl @Rewiag @Xune

So many others but anyone remotely interested? The b

Done HW03 confirmed after the jumper boot.

I did not read the whole thread, so a TLDR would be much appreciated

One thing I can mention right now: trying to deliver a true seamless wholecut is likely going to fail. A well-done wholecut by itself is already a statement, prestige piece to most shoemakers. It requires a perfect pattern and clicking, as well as lasting.

Having it done seamlessly is a completely different universe on top of that. You know, cows do not tend to grow 3D hides. When the leather leaves the tannery it comes in a 2D shape. The way you make it into a shape of a shoe seamlessly is that you actually pull it over the last, and start slowly stretching it over until it reaches the bottom of the last where you can nail it down. This is a very sensitive process and requires a lot of skill because it is easy to mess up. On top of that, only the best leather can be used, which yields a lot of waste.

Most shoemakers only offer this in a bespoke service, and definitely not as a first pair (as they really need to perfect your last first, as once the stretching is done no alternations are possible)

 

[flx]

I did not read the whole thread, so a TLDR would be much appreciated

One thing I can mention right now: trying to deliver a true seamless wholecut is likely going to fail. A well-done wholecut by itself is already a statement, prestige piece to most shoemakers. It requires a perfect pattern and clicking, as well as lasting.

Having it done seamlessly is a completely different universe on top of that. You know, cows do not tend to grow 3D hides. When the leather leaves the tannery it comes in a 2D shape. The way you make it into a shape of a shoe seamlessly is that you actually pull it over the last, and start slowly stretching it over until it reaches the bottom of the last where you can nail it down. This is a very sensitive process and requires a lot of skill because it is easy to mess up. On top of that, only the best leather can be used, which yields a lot of waste.

Most shoemakers only offer this in a bespoke service, and definitely not as a first pair (as they really need to perfect your last first, as once the stretching is done no alternations are possible)

I totally agree with you on the difficulty of this and therefore it'd also be the perfect opportunity for AoL to prove themselves in being equal and/or higher than those other premium brands that can do it ?

 

[EgoCamisas]

I totally agree with you on the difficulty of this and therefore it'd also be the perfect opportunity for AoL to prove themselves in being equal and/or higher than those other premium brands that can do it ?

I agree. As @Rewiag explains, it is no easy feat. But if they do it, that really is a step up.

EDIT: Actually I am not sure of how feasible it really is to do this in shell, assuming that Adriano achieves it in calf. Shell and pulling are no good friends... But I am no shoemaker and I have no feeling for it or experience, so I don't know

 

[Rewiag]

I agree. As @Rewiag explains, it is no easy feat. But if they do it, that really is a step up.

I think it would be suicide at sub 1000USD price point. The amount of extra hand work that needs to go into each pair of seamless wholecut over a "simple" wholecut is kinda extreme, also the material waste is about triple if not more...

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

I agree. As @Rewiag explains, it is no easy feat. But if they do it, that really is a step up.

EDIT: Actually I am not sure of how feasible it really is to do this in shell, assuming that Adriano achieves it in calf. Shell and pulling are no good friends... But I am no shoemaker and I have no feeling for it or experience, so I don't know

We do it and make it a limited offer thing.

 

[clee1982]

I did not read the whole thread, so a TLDR would be much appreciated

One thing I can mention right now: trying to deliver a true seamless wholecut is likely going to fail. A well-done wholecut by itself is already a statement, prestige piece to most shoemakers. It requires a perfect pattern and clicking, as well as lasting.

Having it done seamlessly is a completely different universe on top of that. You know, cows do not tend to grow 3D hides. When the leather leaves the tannery it comes in a 2D shape. The way you make it into a shape of a shoe seamlessly is that you actually pull it over the last, and start slowly stretching it over until it reaches the bottom of the last where you can nail it down. This is a very sensitive process and requires a lot of skill because it is easy to mess up. On top of that, only the best leather can be used, which yields a lot of waste.

Most shoemakers only offer this in a bespoke service, and definitely not as a first pair (as they really need to perfect your last first, as once the stretching is done no alternations are possible)

I'm sure I remember RTW that does seamless whole cut as well, AM comes to mind, EB probably does too (for an upcharge probably), would think lots of these new Chinese entry does as well, is Archibald hand lasted?

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

I'm sure I remember RTW that does seamless whole cut as well, AM comes to mind, EB probably does too (for an upcharge probably), would think lots of these new Chinese entry does as well, is Archibald hand lasted?

Hand welted and hand lasted. The sole is not hand sewn though, only partially hand sewn sole.

But Adriano has done the full handlasted multiple times and we can do that for an upcharge.

 

[clee1982]

I know you guys are hand welt, but there are a lot other steps as well (handsewn bottom, hand lasted, stack heel built up one layer at a time etc.)

 

[Rewiag]

Off topic:
@ArchibaldRoh wrote PM re SF-01