Appeal of Panerai?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dopey, Oct 17, 2008.

  1. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Rolex movement, Panerai case and dial design.

    It has the general look of military watches of that era, and is certainly a lovely design.
    Do you know when it morphed into the larger scale that is the hallmark of the current Panerais? Was it as soon as they started making their own movements?
     


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    It has the general look of military watches of that era, and is certainly a lovely design.
    Do you know when it morphed into the larger scale that is the hallmark of the current Panerais? Was it as soon as they started making their own movements?


    Panerai only started making their own movements a couple of years ago (and for high-end models); the vintage watches are as big as the modern ones. In fact, the design has stayed remarkably stable.
     


  3. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Panerai only started making their own movements a couple of years ago (and for high-end models); the vintage watches are as big as the modern ones. In fact, the design has stayed remarkably stable.

    The one I posted doesn't look that large at all.
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    The one I posted doesn't look that large at all.

    Well, to be fair, it's not on a wrist. Gdl knows better, I'm sure, but it's also possible some vintage models were slightly smaller. But as far as I know, they were generally the same size as the modern 44mm cases, or even larger.
     


  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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  6. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    It has the general look of military watches of that era, and is certainly a lovely design.
    Do you know when it morphed into the larger scale that is the hallmark of the current Panerais? Was it as soon as they started making their own movements?


    These were actually larger than most of the current Panerai (which are generally 44mm). They were always designed to be large and easily read underwater, worn over a bodysuit.

    OP started making its own movements (if you could actually say that considering they're really Richemont movements raher than OP movements) very recently (last 3-4 years). Panerai has historically been a design firm and a manufacturer of military instruments - they outsourced or bought what they did not make (e.g. exclusive collaboration with Rolex in the 1930's for the 2533 and 3646 you are referring to). It was not a watch manufacture, although it is now trying to establish itself as one
     


  7. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, to be fair, it's not on a wrist. Gdl knows better, I'm sure, but it's also possible some vintage models were slightly smaller. But as far as I know, they were generally the same size as the modern 44mm cases, or even larger.
    I know, but I think you can get a good idea of the size by looking at the center pin. You can also look at the proportions of the lugs, though not as accurate since you don't really know the strap width. Edit: I hadn't seen gdl's post, and will take his word for it. I am surprised that watch is so big.
     


  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Well, to be fair, it's not on a wrist. Gdl knows better, I'm sure, but it's also possible some vintage models were slightly smaller. But as far as I know, they were generally the same size as the modern 44mm cases, or even larger.

    The model dopey posted is 47mm - i.e. slightly bigger than the 45mm Radiomir I posted
     


  9. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Aesthetically the base Radiomir (and to a slightly lesser degree the Luminor) is a brilliant design, especially in the original 47mm size. In the casual watch category they are easily my favorite. Of course I am biased because I am a big guy with a large wrist and particularly enjoy clean and simple design with a bit of a military vibe to it. '

    I don't feel the same way about all the modified and complicated versions though, cluttering that dial messes them up IMO. I also think that translating the design to a 44mm watch corrupts it a bit.
     


  10. tokyodandy

    tokyodandy Senior member

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    What i sthe appeal of Panerai watches? This i not a knock on them, as I understand people like things for different reasons.
    I first saw one in a mag when I was flying back from a beach holiday in Boracay (1998 I guess) and thought "mmm, neat". I liked the chunky design. When I realised how big it was I cooled off. I still like the look but as with many, many watches it is just ridiculously oversized for daily use unless you like having a two-inch disk of steel hanging off your arm.

    Also a couple of years after that loads of people in the financial markets started buying them and it became a common sight. That too put me off. [​IMG]

    TD
     


  11. tailor made or naked

    tailor made or naked Member

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    simple, clean look. No nonsense, quite solid and not expensive. A little big but if you have the wrist they look good. Only wear mine on casual days or when traveling. Easy to read the time when half a sleep. Many people still think they are some cheap supermarket brand, which is fine by me. However IWC produce much nicer models!
     


  12. Josef Seibel

    Josef Seibel Senior member

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    this "Kampf-Schwimmer Marine" goes on auction in november (dr. crott, frankfurt) -- Rolex Oyster Watch Co, Geneva Swiss/Officine Panerai, Geh. Nr. 260546, Ref. 3646, 47 x 47 mm, circa 1945

    the original with close combat marks....... [​IMG]

    http://www.uhren-muser.de/katalog.html
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  13. tricky

    tricky Senior member

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    I absolutely love the 112 and 000.

    Unfortunately, my watch funds are nowhere the $5k price tag of these but I think they're incredible looking watches. There are also tons of aftermarket straps available for them that change the style of the watch drastically.
     


  14. acidboy

    acidboy Senior member

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    The layout and simplicity of the historic models appeal to me. It has a utilitarian/minimalist approach to it that I like, but then again I'm the type that stops to admire the design merits of machineries. The size doesn't bother me at all since they're casual wear for me anyway.

    Here are a couple I got last year, an 005 and a 24. Haters welcome [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  15. djf881

    djf881 Well-Known Member

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    I don't think the allure of Panerai has anything to do with the history of the brand, since a fascist military watch probably has limited appeal.

    I don't think the popularity of these watches has anything to do with the mechanical movements, either, since Panerai hasn't got a longstanding tradition for great in-house movements.

    I think these watches are primarily prized for the design. More cynically, I'd say they emerged at the right time to ride the big-watch trend, a trend that is primarily about making expensive watches conspicuous at a time when precious metals and gems were not in style. In other words, Panerai is coveted because it produces a small number of watches, which makes the brand exclusive, but Panerais are large and distinctive and can be spotted easily from across the room.
     


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