Apolis x Styleforum x Context heavy military shirt: the launch

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Nov 28, 2008.

  1. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^
    I was noticing the same thing. I would have to wear an XL in this shirt and I don't think I'm all that big a guy (5' 11" 170). Yesterday I tried on some BOO shirts in size L and they stretched tight across my chest. It seems like they could have more distance between the sizes.
     
  2. KenN

    KenN Senior member

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    I'll field this one. You see, it actually costs more to put the pocket on the right side of the shirt vs. the left.

    Ain't that right, Wonderful Counselor?


    Anyone care to explain? Is it just harder to sew because people are mostly right handed?
     
  3. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    I've got the same question on this that I do on all the shirts from 'streetwear' brands. If the makers are going to cut them in 1/2 size or less increments (+1" in the chest per size increase) then why bother with the standard XS-XL sizing? The XL's are mediums at best in traditional sizing, so why call the shirt bigger than it is?? Doesn't seem like it would help them to sell. Not really a complaint btw, I'm just curious as to the rationale.
    I'll let Fok chime in with his opinion from the production side of things but as a consumer of mostly "streetwear" labels I find traditional sizing to be somewhat of a joke. I'm 6', 160lbs and yet I wear a size small, and in some cases extra small, in shirts and jackets in traditional sizing for them to fit me without appearing that I'm swimming in my clothes. What size should a grown man at 5'8, 145lbs be, a child's large? It's simply two unique ways of tackling the same problem but after years of dealing with traditional sizing I'm much happier and less worried about the measurements of clothing from streetwear labels. I'm the size a grown man should be and hopefully my clothes should be sized as such. The small increments are definitely a reflection of the target audience that would otherwise be in between sizes.
     
  4. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    Anyone care to explain? Is it just harder to sew because people are mostly right handed?
    Yes, I'd care to explain although I'd ask that you explain why you think it'd be harder to sew a pocket on a shirt when people are mostly right handed. Seriously. It was a joke directed at Fok. Originally it was placed on the right to offset a smaller potential pocket on the left that never happened. There was a little bit of confusion and the pocket was never moved over the left where single pockets are traditionally placed. But Fok will tell you it was all part of the Master Plan, that it was a signature move on his part, and that I wasn't the first person to point it out... I've actually grown to like it on the right because while the functionality might be slightly decreased as I am a righty who puts things in his front pockets, it definitely makes the shirt very unique.
     
  5. converge

    converge Senior member

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    What size should a grown man at 5'8, 145lbs be, a child's large?

    Sorry to hi-jack but unfotunately this is what it has come to. I can fit into a RL Polo youth medium. That size is about equivalent to an MJK extra-small.
     
  6. Bam!ChairDance

    Bam!ChairDance Senior member

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    Apolis Activism's sizing is usually pretty unfriendly to waify people, so it's refreshing to see the label offer an XS size that follows the measurements usually reserved for smalls.

    But still, imagine my combination of surprise and disappointment when I tried on an Apolis button-down in size small at Farinelli's, only to see most of it trail behind me when I turned around.
     
  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    ^^^
    I was noticing the same thing. I would have to wear an XL in this shirt and I don't think I'm all that big a guy (5' 11" 170). Yesterday I tried on some BOO shirts in size L and they stretched tight across my chest. It seems like they could have more distance between the sizes.


    You would probably take a large. I was the fit model for the medium, and I am 5'11" and just under 165 lbs, but my frame is pretty long, lean, and rather narrow. If you want a more relaxed fit, you probably want to go for the XL.

    The sizing for the shirt follows European sizing (not for the more conservative brands.) A medium fits a lean 48Eu (me), and the XL is about a 52 Eu, and is meant to be fairly fitted.

    I hope that helps!
     
  8. KenN

    KenN Senior member

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    Yes, I'd care to explain although I'd ask that you explain why you think it'd be harder to sew a pocket on a shirt when people are mostly right handed. Seriously.

    I thought it had something to do with ergonomics of sewing machines... I Seriously didn't know.
     
  9. brimley

    brimley Senior member

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    Is there any construction on the shoulder that makes it fit wider than measured, like a raglan-type construction or anything? 45" chest sounds reasonable, but 18.25" on the shoulders for the XL is fairly brutal.

    As an aside, BoO cuts their XLs to 43" on this seasons's pit-to pit (!)
     
  10. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is a pretty cool shirt so I'm going to start a new thread on my question instead of hijacking this one.
     
  11. Arethusa

    Arethusa Senior member

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    Easy for you to say...[​IMG]
    Yeah, whodini doesn't drink. That's his secret.
     
  12. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Is there any construction on the shoulder that makes it fit wider than measured, like a raglan-type construction or anything? 45" chest sounds reasonable, but 18.25" on the shoulders for the XL is fairly brutal.

    As an aside, BoO cuts their XLs to 43" on this seasons's pit-to pit (!)


    I made sure that the shoulder is tight and the armhole high in order for the shirt to look sharp and precise even when worn very casually. Of course, the shirt is made from a fabric that is essentially a denim weave, so the shirt should mold to your figure at the same time.

    Fok.
     
  13. mulansauce

    mulansauce Senior member

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    I'm about 5'8" and 145 and I went with the small, even though the XS measurements synced better with what I normally like. I was thinking I would be treating it like a jacket, so I would go up a bit...but the more I think about it, the more it seems like I should have gone with the XS. Oh well, order has been placed already...if worse comes to worse and it's too big I can have it tailored a bit to shrink it down.
     
  14. Stacks

    Stacks Member

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    I'm 6'3 180, picked up an XL. It'll be the only XL in my wardrobe, but frankly I'm just hoping I can fit into this piece.
     
  15. Teger

    Teger Senior member

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    I'm thinking about picking this up in an XL to wear as a shirt jacket. How will the fabric breathe in the summer?
     

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