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Anything I'm missing on Jantzen shirts?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Toiletduck, May 29, 2006.

  1. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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    I just recently moved back to hong kong and got to make my first ever bespoke item... a Jantzen shirt!...and I love it!


    I also just found out ther are more options to be pondering about rather than just the collar, cuffs, and flat front/stitched, for example, using another awesome fabric to line the cuff+collar, using different colored thread to stitch the buttons/buttonholes, and button color etc.


    What else is there am I missing out?? I feel that my first shirt could have been so much more customized now that i know of these few other options!! I want to know more!! Anyone have tips and suggestions when making a shirt?


    I'm also afraid....because I know where my paychecks will be going from now on...
     
  2. tiger02

    tiger02 Senior member

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    Too many quirks will look affected, at some point. Make sure you understand exactly what image you want to portray.
     
  3. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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    Too many quirks will look affected, at some point. Make sure you understand exactly what image you want to portray.

    well I will limit myself...but I'm just wondering what I'm missing [​IMG]
     
  4. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've never been that tempted to go crazy with my Jantzen. My shirts tend to be fairly conservative. I quickly found a few stylistic hallmarks that I liked -- slightly longer cuffs, for example -- and enjoy having shirts made to match. That subtle consistency is one of my favorite parts of Jantzen.

    One small word of caution on trying out quirky ideas: I've found that a single wrong choice can ruin a whole shirt. I have a Canali linen shirt that fits great and feels wonderful, but it has contrast buttonholes that keep me from wearing it regularly. Just too distinctive, and a bit flashier than I generally prefer.

    That said, Jantzen offers a great chance to try out ideas on a larger, conceptual level. For example, I don't normally wear short-sleeve button-ups, but I had been thinking of having one made in an old-fashioned style, with longer sleeves that flare outward near the elbow. But now I've let it get awfully late in the season for that, I suppose.
     
  5. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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    Jantzen Experiment (the non-existant collar): I believe its 1.5" total collar height including collar band, when standing up. Specified no collar interlining, so its very soft and unstructured. The fabric is a fun one too. Black lining of fabric on the inside of collar band Barrel - rounded - 1 button cuffs Short length (but rounded...I hate squared off ends) [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  6. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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    Jantzen experiment: Double button collar with collar band in exact same pattern and texture but reversed colors. On retrospect, I should have reversed the color of the buttons too to complete! [​IMG] A lot of people have noted it looks like I have a bowtie on from afar if I wear it without a tie. [​IMG]
     
  7. Tampan

    Tampan Senior member

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    Both shirts are very well fitted. The pink shirt does look soft around the neck, I imagine it's great on hot days. With the collar and sleeves up, it makes me think of a moth hit with Mortein [​IMG]

    The white shirt's collar is intriguing. As a look, it deserves to really take off - masterminded by a PoW (not POW, unless it's Mendela) or another style icon, which evolves into striped undercollars, spotted undercollars... I fear that will be resisted due to the reaction of many people to a buttoned-up shirt without a tie - it "seems odd". No proper basis for that statement, however. How does the white shirt look when you also wear a tie? I would think you couldn't use a black tie, it would look like a triple Windsor. Perhaps a red tie. It's a great party shirt. I like it. Please make it mainstream [​IMG]
     
  8. TheIdler

    TheIdler Senior member

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    I'm digging those experimental collars.
     
  9. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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    The pink shirt does look soft around the neck, I imagine it's great on hot days.

    I actually made this specifically for a trip to Malaysia...however not finished in time and I only picked it up after my trip [​IMG]
     
  10. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    How about detachable collars? I don't know if anyone's tried that yet.

    Don't forget "flowback" cuffs, single link cuffs, etc. Or you could get some bizarre pointed cuffs made that link normally on the palm side but go to a point on the outside. I don't know, just random thoughts. Might be cool looking, who knows.
     
  11. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Jantzen Experiment (the non-existant collar):

    I believe its 1.5" total collar height including collar band, when standing up.
    Specified no collar interlining, so its very soft and unstructured. The fabric is a fun one too.
    Black lining of fabric on the inside of collar band
    Barrel - rounded - 1 button cuffs
    Short length (but rounded...I hate squared off ends)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    i like this one very dior homme i have a few very simular to this! all you need now is a unlinned fresco or cream linin coat to go with it
     
  12. j

    j Senior member Admin

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  13. ahbeijai

    ahbeijai Member

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    Toiletduck, love the no-existant collar look. How did you specify it with Ricky, did he have a readily available template for it?
     
  14. yoyo

    yoyo Senior member

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    Thats an interesting look with the collar up
     
  15. prozach1576

    prozach1576 Senior member

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    Hey Toiletduck, want to drop by and ask Ricky to make my order?
     
  16. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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    Toiletduck, love the no-existant collar look. How did you specify it with Ricky, did he have a readily available template for it?


    I had to specify, but he should have an idea now
     
  17. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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    Hey Toiletduck, want to drop by and ask Ricky to make my order? The name is "Zach Shoup". [​IMG]

    haha alright I will remind him next time I pop by
     
  18. Faded501s

    Faded501s Senior member

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    Has anyone ever tried the "horizontal" button holes shown on the Jantzen "new styles" page or whatever it's called. I'm not sure why but I'm really intrigued with the idea.
     
  19. wpeters

    wpeters Senior member

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    Has anyone ever tried the "horizontal" button holes shown on the Jantzen "new styles" page or whatever it's called.

    I did, somewhat inadvertently.

    I've ordered from Jantzen several times, and I always note "bottom button horizontal" on the web form. Several other posters do the same. This results in all the visible buttons cut vertically, and the bottom, unseen button cut horizontally. It cuts down on the halves of the shirt shifting vertically when worn.

    On one single-shirt order, Jantzen apparently misread this instruction as a request for all buttons to be cut horizontally. The result was a white JKT fabric shirt with white-stitched, horizontal buttonholes.

    It's a mildly unusual look. I like it, and it makes the shirt look slightly formal-shirt-ish to me, though I can't say why. I doubt that anyone else has noticed it. If they have, they've never commented.

    If you went with contrast-colored button-holes, it would make the treatment much more pronounced.
     

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