Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tedbearz, Nov 24, 2004.
I want. Maybe wear with an eye patch.
Or a monocle.
I was looking for a pair of WWII Officer shoes, the kind that were worn with the dress uniform back in the 30s and 40s back when russet was the coolest color of the day. I have friends with originals and have worn a pair though have never been keen on vintage shoes lest they be deadstock which with shoes is nearly impossible for me to find. Now Buzz Ricskson is well known for it's super detailed replicas of WWII jackets and Khakis and retro jeans and being connected to Toyo industries, their reproduction 1940's Hawaiian shirts. They started making shoes a few years back and of course one of those shoes is the plain old Oxford shoe that the Army recomended officers wear back in the 1940s. They could get the government made shoe or as the manual says, they could go private purchase shoes. This wasn't uncommon for officers back during the war. At the time Officers would go to Brooks Borthers or Saks or Neiman Marcus or their own personal tailor to have their uniforms custom made and the stores would have in stock the uniform green and pink elastique material.
Anywho, buzz Rickson reproduced the classic 6 eyelet flat laced round toed Oxford that the government sold officers at the time.
I bought a pair of Buzz Rickson's
1940's U. S. Army and USAAF
Officers' Low-Quarter Service Shoes
They never ever break in. I don't know if it's the footbed they use, or if they don't have cork in there... I wear dress shoes like tennis shoes and wear through my Allen Edmonds and Alden soles and get them resoled regularly. Alden and Allen Edmonds form to the bottom of your foot within a few days, you can feel how vintage shoes are formed to the previous owner's foot as well. These Rickson shoes are my foot shape yes, yet however they are constructed, they just don't form to the soles of your feet like dress shoes usually do.
Been trying to break them in since October, and for 400 dollars they should have formed pretty well to the bottom of my feet like an original pair or just a good pair of dress shoes, yet the footbed isn't really taking much shape. I love the look, they fit my footshape well... It's just the just the footbed that makes you feel like you are walking on flat concrete.
They look fantastic, though overall not really worth the price in discomfort. Though if I were looking for a similar shoe, I'd probably in the future go for a special order Allen Edmonds Leeds in a similar color and without the Reverse welt
Also, the way the heel is done I can feel that it will never lay flat against the ground on either shoe, so over time it in a way feels like it's cutting into the heel of my foot (hope that makes sense).
Nice look, but I hear your pain. The Buzz stuff is really nice, but the premium price makes most of their items hard to justify. Still, certain items are very well done. Their Pea Coat, for example, is very fine. In fact, it's mostly their coats that I consider (almost) worth their prices.
This is the first pair of BR shoes I've seen anyone post about. Hope they soften up... soon.
I just have nylon jackets from them (B-15 and L-2). They are the best available (IMHO).
You can buy direct from Japan (try Rakuten / Hinoya) at better prices.
Anyway, letter jackets from Eastman are incredible and they are very friendly and reliable.
I have purchased Buzz Rickson from a contact in Japan. I love the stuff but you should be aware that they make it exactly like they did in the 40"s and 50's. Therefor the sizing is true vintage and much smaller than current sizing. The William Gibson line is amazing but with updated sizing in the torso and sleeve length but not really any different in the chest or shoulders. This makes the Gibson line perfect for those 6 feet and taller. If you wear a 42, you might need a 44 unless you really want a snug 42.
I posted this in AAAC on the same subject.
During the course of WWII it was common for officers to
informally modify their uniforms, often influenced by
where they were stationed, or the allied militaries beside whom
they served. My Dad, for example, served in the 8th Air Force
in England and returned with several pairs of non-regulation
shoes, specifically a pair of dark brown Veldtschoen lace-up
boots with leather soles, and a pair of single strap 'Chukka"
boots in medium brown. The Veldtschoens, which are
waterproof, were worn by him for decades Post-War
when it snowed.
Anyone know where to get Buzz Rickson stuff (specifically khakis) in Tokyo?
Hinoya carries Buzz Rickson. They're in Ueno.
Hinoya carries Buzz Rickson. They're in Ueno.
Thanks for the tip. If anyone is looking for direction to Hinoya
Go to the Ueno JR Station. Exit at the Hirokoji exit (next to the Hard Rock Cafe). Straight ahead across the street is a department store called OICity. Cross the street and go toward it. In front of OICity turn right (i.e. go west). The second alley that you come to runs parallel to and next to (and on the east side of) the elevated train tracks. Follow that alley south for about two blocks until you come to Hinoya which is really a large stall. They have tons of Sugar cane, buzz rickson, sun surf stuff.
I'm glad it worked out for you. I was able to buy through Rakuten with them and they were very nice about it. I hope I can visit their store one day. What'd you get?
I'm pretty sure Self Edge in SF stocks some BR. They're a affiliate so check them out via SW&D.
Self Edge definitely carries BR. I checked them out first, but I ended up having to order something they didn't have. getting something from Japan is a risk, knowing it's hard to return things.
I like this:
who would have guessed that...
I love their peacoat. I coveted it last year but couldn't get it.
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