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Anyone have any experience with bespoke cotton trousers?

johanm

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I'm thinking about bespeaking some cotton trousers.

Anyone have any recommendations for good books for sturdy, durable cotton cloth in a good variety of colors? What is a good weight for spring-summer-fall wear?

Also, to what extent is shrinkage a concern? Do the trousers need to be made with different dimensions compared to wool ones?

Any other advice for newbies in the world of bespoke cotton pants?
 

Macallan

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I have considered this, as I no longer purchase rtw trousers. Cost is a major issue, Gieves will still charge £1.2k for cotton trousers and other tailors their base rate. Low-end bespoke would be a better option, due to the price; I could justify paying upto £200/£250 for bespoke cotton trousers.

The cloth could be pre-shrunk; however, the trousers would still be made slightly longer than a wool pair. If I had bespoke cotton trousers, I would not machine wash or dry-clean, hand-wash only and never use a tumble dryer either.


If you want light weight trousers, have you considered a wool/cotton mix? You can wear them on the hottest day in summer and still wear them in early fall.

As for books, Zegna is a good start; I have a pair of Zegna cotton trousers in sky blue to be worn in spring/summmer. Purchased the trousers about 2.5 yrs ago; good cloth, comfortable and they seem durable.
 

LeadSmall3BetAllIN

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Originally Posted by Macallan
I have considered this, as I no longer purchase rtw trousers. Cost is a major issue, Gieves will still charge £1.2k for cotton trousers and other tailors their base rate.

Low-end bespoke would be a better option, due to the price; I could justify paying upto £200/£250 for bespoke cotton trousers.


For cotton I'd say:
High end rtw>base rate bespoke> bespoke with surcharge and no benifit
 

NewYorkIslander

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Worth it is all relative, but for me, and I have access to very good budget bespoke, isn't worth it unless its a particular fabric, color, you know you won't be able to get RTW. I have a pair of cotton/cashmere cords and a real think moleskin. In hindsight, I should have looked around RTW a bit more. After one cleaning of the cords its pretty evident that they've been washed and pressed, and I have a feeling the moleskin will be the same. If money is no object, then why not.
 

Flamboyant

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Originally Posted by LeadSmall3BetAllIN
For cotton I'd say:
High end rtw>base rate bespoke> bespoke with surcharge and no benifit


This seems a strange thing to say. Fit is going to be better for second-tier bespoke. Fabric will probably also be better, certainly has been in my experience. Plus you get to select styling details.
 

Flamboyant

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Originally Posted by TonyThe Tailor
Holland & Sherry have a great selection of cottons that I make many trousers from

As a consumer of H&S cottons I second this endorsement. They just last and last.
 

NewYorkIslander

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Originally Posted by Flamboyant
As a consumer of H&S cottons I second this endorsement. They just last and last.

Good to know. Thanks.
 

Flamboyant

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Originally Posted by jerrybrowne
I once wasted $750 on a pair of loro piana cotton bespoke trousers- shrank even with hand washing and hang drying. Great hand though and was able to find the perfect shade of khaki.

That seems excessively expensive, for what is at most a few hours work.
 

poorlawstudent

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Originally Posted by Flamboyant
That seems excessively expensive, for what is at most a few hours work.

I wonder how much some of the folk here bill per hour.
 

GBR

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Yes , I have had several pairs from Gordon Yao - fine investment.
 

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