Anybody ever get a safari jacket made for them?

[FlyingHorker]

One in navy sounds quite appealing.

The closest thing I've found to what I want is from the Armoury, and the price is already that of getting a safari jacket made from a local tailor.

Although I'd rather have high-contrast beige horn buttons instead, and a regular shirt placket. The hidden placket makes it look more boring. Gauntlet cuffs also adds a nice touch.

B&Tailor nicely showcases the effect of the buttons+gauntlet cuff.

Any experiences, tips etc?

 

[dieworkwear]

I've had one made through Ascot Chang. What do you want to know?

 

[Andy57]

I had one made by @CraftsmanCo, using their bespoke service. I felt that it came out very well in terms of fit, and I specified many of the details that you would like to specify.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I've had one made through Ascot Chang. What do you want to know?

Was it an in-person fitting? How much did it cost? Any recommendations for fabric/weight? I'm looking for something that wears very cool, but won't wrinkle super easily. I have a 5.5 oz safari jacket and it feels great, not too warm, but it wrinkles very easily. I've another one in a 50/50 linen/cotton blend in an unknown weight, but it feels a bit heavier and doesn't really wrinkle, more just rumples.

How about length from BOC compared to a suit jacket? Ex: 29.5-30 inches is about the perfect length for me in a suit. Would most makers be willing to wash/shrink the fabric before cutting?

I generally like safari jackets with a loose look that has details that allow heavy tapering in the waist. The 5.5 oz cotton safari jacket I have with the full belt shapes the waist very nicely, but it's not the most practical.

Would a drawstring waist AND a full belt design be feasible on one jacket? What I mean is, have two belt loops on the sides so you can use the full belt when you feel like it, and then take it off and use the drawstring.

That detail is not set in stone, I'm looking for something that provides the most amount of shape around the waist, yet is convenient.

I had one made by @CraftsmanCo, using their bespoke service. I felt that it came out very well in terms of fit, and I specified many of the details that you would like to specify.

Can you post pictures of it? Were you there in person? I am not familiar with CraftsmanCo.

 

[dieworkwear]

Was it an in-person fitting? How much did it cost? Any recommendations for fabric/weight? I'm looking for something that wears very cool, but won't wrinkle super easily. I have a 5.5 oz safari jacket and it feels great, not too warm, but it wrinkles very easily. I've another one in a 50/50 linen/cotton blend in an unknown weight, but it feels a bit heavier and doesn't really wrinkle, more just rumples.

How about length from BOC compared to a suit jacket? Ex: 29.5-30 inches is about the perfect length for me in a suit. Would most makers be willing to wash/shrink the fabric before cutting?

I generally like safari jackets with a loose look that has details that allow heavy tapering in the waist. The 5.5 oz cotton safari jacket I have with the full belt shapes the waist very nicely, but it's not the most practical.

Would a drawstring waist AND a full belt design be feasible on one jacket? What I mean is, have two belt loops on the sides so you can use the full belt when you feel like it, and then take it off and use the drawstring.

That detail is not set in stone, I'm looking for something that provides the most amount of shape around the waist, yet is convenient.

Can you post pictures of it? Were you there in person? I am not familiar with CraftsmanCo.

Had in-person fittings.

It's been years since I ordered it, but I think the fabric was something around 12/13 oz linen from Solbiati. Cost was around $700, give or take maybe $50, but again it's been years. They may have changed the price. And you'd need to have a paper pattern on file. I don't know if the price is the same if you don't, but my guess is that it's likely higher because of the additional work.

I don't wear mine over suit jackets, just over shirts. Not sure how the BOC compares to sport coats, but I'm pretty sure it's shorter.

You can ask your tailor to wash the fabric before making, but I don't think jacketings need to be washed.

You'd have to ask your tailor about the drawstring and full belt, but that sounds like overkill to me. Mine just has a half belt at the back, shirt cuffs, four pockets at the front with the bottom two being bellowed. Looks pretty similar to the first photo you posted, but without the hidden placket.

TBH, I think RTW is fine for these things. I've had a few safari jackets and my favorite is a Holland & Holland piece I thrifted off eBay. The size is slightly big and loose, and I think it looks more stylish that way. With RTW, you also get to have all the design decisions in someone else's hands, and then see if whether you like it or not. There's an uncertainty with bespoke and I'm not sure that much of a payoff. Safari jackets don't have to fit so perfectly. (FWIW, the nicest bespoke safari jackets I've seen are from Antonio Panico, but he doesn't travel. His cut is slightly large and oversized. You can find photos of it around on the internet).

If you get one custom made, I would suggest making design decisions that push this towards jacket territory and not shirt jacket territory. Jacket sized buttons at the front, for example, instead of smaller buttons. You can also talk to your tialor about possibly adding a side body if you want more shape in the waist. I think Anna Matuozzo has made shirt jackets/ safari jackets like that.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Had in-person fittings.

It's been years since I ordered it, but I think the fabric was something around 12/13 oz linen from Solbiati. Cost was around $700, give or take maybe $50, but again it's been years. They may have changed the price. And you'd need to have a paper pattern on file. I don't know if the price is the same if you don't, but my guess is that it's likely higher because of the additional work.

I don't wear mine over suit jackets, just over shirts. Not sure how the BOC compares to sport coats, but I'm pretty sure it's shorter.

You can ask your tailor to wash the fabric before making, but I don't think jacketings need to be washed.

You'd have to ask your tailor about the drawstring and full belt, but that sounds like overkill to me. Mine just has a half belt at the back, shirt cuffs, four pockets at the front with the bottom two being bellowed. Looks pretty similar to the first photo you posted, but without the hidden placket.

TBH, I think RTW is fine for these things. I've had a few safari jackets and my favorite is a Holland & Holland piece I thrifted off eBay. The size is slightly big and loose, and I think it looks more stylish that way. With RTW, you also get to have all the design decisions in someone else's hands, and then see if whether you like it or not. There's an uncertainty with bespoke and I'm not sure that much of a payoff. Safari jackets don't have to fit so perfectly. (FWIW, the nicest bespoke safari jackets I've seen are from Antonio Panico, but he doesn't travel. His cut is slightly large and oversized. You can find photos of it around on the internet).

If you get one custom made, I would suggest making design decisions that push this towards jacket territory and not shirt jacket territory. Jacket sized buttons at the front, for example, instead of smaller buttons. You can also talk to your tialor about possibly adding a side body if you want more shape in the waist. I think Anna Matuozzo has made shirt jackets/ safari jackets like that.

Thank you for the info, my local tailor quoted me around $750 as well. I'm also searching around and talking to MyTailor/Hemrajani.

Yeah I only plan on wearing it over shirts, I just want to get the balance correct in terms of length and buttons. Drawstring+full belt is not set in stone, I will definitely see. I may just go with drawstring.

RTW is definitely fine, but most of the offerings I want seem very close to bespoke pricing anyway, so I figured I'd get all the anal details I want. Ex: The Armoury jacket would cost me about $765 CAD anyway, and I'd prefer if it had higher contrast buttons, was a brighter navy, a regular placket, and epaulettes.

I am definitely pushing it towards jacket territory, I will likely use big ass buttons all over the jacket to really emphasize it.

What is the side body detail? I haven't heard of that one.

Did that solbiati linen jacket wear cooler than a light sweater? I ask because I'm a very hot blooded person who sweats easily, also why I'd like the jacket to be washable

 

[dieworkwear]

Thank you for the info, my local tailor quoted me around $750 as well. I'm also searching around and talking to MyTailor/Hemrajani.

Yeah I only plan on wearing it over shirts, I just want to get the balance correct in terms of length and buttons. Drawstring+full belt is not set in stone, I will definitely see. I may just go with drawstring.

RTW is definitely fine, but most of the offerings seem very close to bespoke pricing anyway, so I figured I'd get all the anal details I want. Ex: The Armoury jacket would cost me about $765 CAD anyway, and I'd prefer if it had higher contrast buttons, was a brighter navy, a regular placket, and epaulettes.

I am definitely pushing it towards jacket territory, I will likely use big ass buttons all over the jacket to really emphasize it.

What is the side body detail? I haven't heard of that one. Did it wear cooler than a light sweater? I ask because I'm a very hot blooded person who sweats easily, also why I'd like the jacket to be washable

Side body is an extra panel put between the front and back panels. It's a way to add shape to a garment.

It wears cooler than a light sweater.

If you use a custom tailor, see if you can find examples of previous work. I think bespoke can get tricky once you stray from the usual suits, sport coats, dress shirt, and dress trousers territory. More than fit, there's the silhouette of a garment, and custom tailors aren't always use to cutting these sorts unusual items. Or you may not like their base pattern/ silhouette. It's not hard to get a safari jacket to fit right, but it can be very difficult to make it look good. The balance between fit and silhouette isn't always obvious, so you can easily end up with something that looks a bit too clean and boring -- like a slightly bigger shirt.

 

[dieworkwear]

Some examples of safari or safari-ish jackets by Panico.

https://journal.styleforum.net/a-visit-to-panico-naples-part-ii/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BWYCTwMjGAG/?taken-by=sartoriapanico

https://www.instagram.com/p/xz-pF5qcxR/?taken-by=sartoriapanico

I don't care for the styling in the last photo, but you get the point. There's a ton of shape to the garment, but it's hard to get that from most bespoke tailors because it takes a lot of practice and tweaking to the pattern. Most will cut you a very simple, straight forward garment that fits slightly like an oversized shirt. Which can be fine, but I think it lacks the drama and style of something with more shape.

You can get more of that shape through ready-to-wear, depending on who you're getting a jacket from. More than the color of the buttons, which can be easily changed even at a local dry cleaner business, I think the most important dimension to the jacket is the shape. That can't be changed, at least not easily.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Side body is an extra panel put between the front and back panels. It's a way to add shape to a garment.

It wears cooler than a light sweater.

If you use a custom tailor, see if you can find examples of previous work. I think bespoke can get tricky once you stray from the usual suits, sport coats, dress shirt, and dress trousers territory. More than fit, there's the silhouette of a garment, and custom tailors aren't always use to cutting these sorts unusual items. Or you may not like their base pattern/ silhouette. It's not hard to get a safari jacket to fit right, but it can be very difficult to make it look good. The balance between fit and silhouette isn't always obvious, so you can easily end up with something that looks a bit too clean and boring -- like a slightly bigger shirt.

Alright, I will ask about that option.

Hemrajani sent some examples and there seems like a wide variance in shape/fabric/details. Some that look close to the ones ITT, and others that look more like a boring fitted shirt. So that suggests to me that communication on my end will be the most important factor for MyTailor, especially as I won't be there in person. If it comes to it, I will send in my previous safari jacket and go from there.

Yes, you're right on the silhouette, and that's exactly what I'm trying to get right. B&Tailor nailed the aesthetic IMO. It is interesting enough to be unique, yet versatile in the same vein as a navy blazer in today's business casual world.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Some examples of safari or safari-ish jackets by Panico.

https://journal.styleforum.net/a-visit-to-panico-naples-part-ii/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BWYCTwMjGAG/?taken-by=sartoriapanico

https://www.instagram.com/p/xz-pF5qcxR/?taken-by=sartoriapanico

I don't care for the styling in the last photo, but you get the point. There's a ton of shape to the garment, but it's hard to get that from most bespoke tailors because it takes a lot of practice and tweaking to the pattern. Most will cut you a very simple, straight forward garment that fits slightly like an oversized shirt. Which can be fine, but I think it lacks the drama and style of something with more shape.

You can get more of that shape through ready-to-wear, depending on who you're getting a jacket from. More than the color of the buttons, which can be easily changed even at a local dry cleaner business, I think the most important dimension to the jacket is the shape. That can't be changed, at least not easily.

Hmm, for Panico, you'd have to go to Naples to get one RTW?

Have any other options for RTW?

http://us.chadprom.com/product/b-tailor-safari-jacket/48/?cate_no=1&display_group=2#none

That IS the jacket in the OP I think, but it's all sold out in my sizes.

The jacket I was thinking of using as a basis for bespoke is this one, as it already nails most of what we've discussed ITT, and I already own it. For silhouette, in person, I wouldn't change much at all.

https://www.tagsafari.com/safari-jacket-for-men-4216.html

 

[dieworkwear]

If you have a jacket you already like, you can probably give that to a tailor to copy. But I also assume you can just buy that RTW jacket and get it altered to have whatever details you want.

Panico doesn't travel. You'd have to see him in Naples, although he also has an outpost in Rome.

I don't have any specific recommendations for RTW. The market changes too quickly from season to season, such that you don't really know what will be offered by any particular brand for any specific season. I think the advantage of RTW, which isn't stated enough, is that you can see how something looks and put it back on the rack if you don't like it. You just have to try various things out to see what works for you.

Andy mentioned Craftsman above, and I think they're a MTO/ MTM company with a base pattern specifically designed for safari jackets. That can be a good route since you're working with a company that has actually thought through this specific style. Stoffa also does MTM field jackets, but you have to be in a city where they do trunk shows. I like my Holland & Holland jacket, but it's vintage and I don't know how the new models fit.

Years and years ago, Will from ASW posted this photo. I think it's from MyTailor. I really like how the jacket looks, FWIW. Has that slightly more casual, oversized vibe that I think makes safari jackets look good.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Yes that is what I'm leaning towards. I would say most of the details are not alterable to something I want, main one being I want a navy jacket first and foremost. Otherwise I've already satisfied my desire for the traditional style safari jackets in beige/khaki.

I did go on the Craftsman website, but not much info there except for Hong Kong consultations.

Will's jacket does look quite awesome, I wonder if that's a bi-swing back...another detail I didn't think about and may do in place of a reverse pleat back. I tried finding his articles on ASW regarding safari jackets but they're no longer there, or I can't find them.

Thank you again for all of the information and pictures though. I will wait and see if Andy has any more info on Craftsman, and I will post ITT if I end up getting the jacket made. Cost will probably be my deciding factor.

 

[dieworkwear]

Yes that is what I'm leaning towards. I would say most of the details are not alterable to something I want, main one being I want a navy jacket first and foremost. Otherwise I've already satisfied my desire for the traditional style safari jackets in beige/khaki.

I did go on the Craftsman website, but not much info there except for Hong Kong consultations.

Will's jacket does look quite awesome, I wonder if that's a bi-swing back...another detail I didn't think about and may do in place of a reverse pleat back. I tried finding his articles on ASW regarding safari jackets but they're no longer there, or I can't find them.

Thank you again for all of the information and pictures though. I will wait and see if Andy has any more info on Craftsman, and I will post ITT if I end up getting the jacket made. Cost will probably be my deciding factor.

Good luck! Let us know how it turns out.

 

[FlyingHorker]

Tailor said my drawstring+full belt idea would be too bulky.

Any opinions on that one? I'm not sure how it'd be too bulky, I'd take the full belt off when wanting to use the drawstring.

For now, I did settle on the full belt.

Any ideas on making it less fussy and more convenient? I did find this button strap on a Private White VC jacket, would it just help keep the belt in place if tying it around the back?

 

[FlyingHorker]

bump