Any well-constructed, sleek loafers?

[Rrolack]

Hi folks,

Over the past few weeks I've read a lot here about shoes, construction quality, etc. It so happens that one of my favorite shoe types are loafers, but I can't seem to find any that are sleek enough, in a brand that's known for its quality.


To let you know how sleek a shoe I'm looking for, here's a leather-soled Ferragamo that would fit the bill:


Here is another shoe I like. This is a pair of TBNY's with rubber soles; I own a pair of these:




By comparison, here are C&J Mertons. To me, these just don't look as sleek as the previous two shoes. Notice the thicker sole, as well as the shape of the toe, which is boxier than the shoes above.




Here is also the JL Lopez, which is also boxier than what I'm looking for:




With these shoes as references, are there any well-constructed (e.g. easily re-soleable, will hold up over time) loafers that resemble the first two shoes? Or if that's the look I'm after, should I just accept the it's hard to find that sleekness in a well-made shoe, and throw them out as the soles wear down?

I'll mention that the Ferragamo's are fully stitched along the bottom of the sole; maybe this means they can be re-soled.

 

[jcep]

Also interested. The C&J Merton seems a but too pointy and G&G are too hard to find sub-$800

 

[YRR92]

The Ferragamos are probably Blake-stitched (so the side of the shoe rolls under, and the sole is stitched to the bottom of that). Certainly a lot of Italian loafers are.




The Lobbs and the C&Js are goodyear-welted, so the upper is stitched to the insole, which then has a cloth ridge called a "feather" glued to it, which then has a welt stitched to it, to which the sole is finally attached.



In practical terms, what that means is that in the side profile of the Ferragamo (and maybe the TBNY, though that's probably glued together), you're just seeing the upper of the shoe, and the outsole. In the Lobbs and the C&Js, you're seeing the upper, the welt, and the outsole. Also, the welt on a GY-welt shoe has to extend far enough out that the sole can be attached to it, whereas a Blake shoe can have the welt trimmed as close as you like.

So that's part of the issue. Of course, resoling a blake-stitched shoe is trickier, because the stitching is inside the shoe (there may be other reasons, too). But I don't know if it's impossible.

So, if you're married to the sole profile of the Ferragamos, then you're effectively married to Blake or glued construction. In the case of a glued shoe, it's gonna trudge right along until it falls apart. Given that glued construction is also kind of the ultimate cost-cut, the shoe's unlikely to look great. In the case of a Blake-stitched shoe, you can have a cobbler glue on a very thin partial rubber sole, which both protect the actual sole from wear, and also prevent water seeping in (a risk with the stitching of Blake shoes, though not one I've noticed). Blake-stitched shoes also tend to be made in softer leathers that don't last as long, but longevity isn't the aim.

Now, for a loafer, I think Blake-stitching is a perfectly honest method of construction. I don't go for the thinnest soles because I find them uncomfortable, but I own and happily wear a pair of blake-stitched* bit loafers. I don't like how a super-close, Blake-style sole edge looks on anything besides a loafer, so I don't have a compelling aesthetic reason to look for Blake-stitched oxfords or boots.

*They're actually a moccasin construction, but I don't feel like googling a diagram for that, and anyway it's beside the point. There's also Blake-Rapid construction, where (to oversimplify), the shoemaker makes a Blake shoe, but instead of cutting down the sole, uses it as a welt to attach the actual outsole, in basically the same way as a Goodyear-welt.

 

[MRMstl]

Magnanni makes loafers in a similar sleek style to what you're looking for and much cheaper than ferragamo. They aren't by any means the "best" shoes available on the market but if they are the style you're looking for go for it. You can generally find them for a good price through Saks off 5th or Nordstrom rack, eBay etc.

If you want to spend a little more than that, Carmina makes what I consider some pretty sleek loafers. Google carmina 10082 and see if that is what you're looking for.

 

[YRR92]

If you want to spend a little more than that, Carmina makes what I consider some pretty sleek loafers. Google carmina 10082 and see if that is what you're looking for.

Also, most of those are shot from an angle more like real life -- an upper three-quarter view, rather than straight on from the side.

Also, if somebody's looking at my shoes straight on from the side, they're probably lying on the ground, in which case my shoes are not going to be a make-or-break element in our relationship.

 

[guccihomme]

Have you looked at Santoni or Gucci? Very nice loafers. AE Verona is nice but thicker sole. I think AE can recraft shoes but not sure about AE Italian made. Perhaps a more experienced member will know. If history is important I believe it is Gucci that made loafers popular in the 60's.