Any Suggestions for Bespoke suit in Los Angeles or SF?

[comrade]

Based on how tailoring houses present themselves via their websites, I would stay away
fromTailor's Keep. Do you want a tux made be someone who's dresses like a hipster?
Also," the happy customers" pictured on their site looked like they purchased their kit on
sale at Nordstroms. In contrast , the guy doing the measuring in MyTailor site is well dressed
according to the SF paradigm(s). If I recall correctly, MT's work is done in India, but at least
it is not MTM send to a third party over which the retailer has less control.

 

[soto_nw]

Based on how tailoring houses present themselves via their websites, I would stay away
fromTailor's Keep. Do you want a tux made be someone who's dresses like a hipster?
Also," the happy customers" pictured on their site looked like they purchased their kit on
sale at Nordstroms. In contrast , the guy doing the measuring in MyTailor site is well dressed
according to the SF paradigm(s). If I recall correctly, MT's work is done in India, but at least
it is not MTM send to a third party over which the retailer has less control.

Hi,

I'm a bit less prejudicial in terms of judging the tailoring house based off of the owner or clientele (we all have to start somewhere). And I have seen some posts from tailor's keep of them being able to do more classically inspired pieces.

Divij and Joe are very well dressed over at MyTailor. My understanding is that their items are made in Hong Kong. They do straight to finish items, MTM with a fitting garment used first before sending the final product, and finally their handmade "bespoke" which is:

at a minimum, hand finished
has a hand drafted pattern
and has one basted fitting

In any case my final decision isn't made and I'm still soliciting suggestions from folks like you that are kind enough to reply on this forum. It's a nice distraction from the more serious things we're all dealing with now.

Hope you're doing well and staying healthy.

 

[soto_nw]

I wouldn't get too hung up on the distinction between made to measure and bespoke. It matters to some degree, but what matters most is whether someone can deliver you a good suit.

I've heard bad stories from Huntsman customers, and I believe they're currently dealing with some issues. I think even with bespoke, it can be easy to get drawn in by a company's branding or prestige. Try to get stories from actual customers and look at photos of real-life people (maybe check hashtags on Instagram and see who tagged a company). Don't pay that much attention to well-stylized photos. And try to find people with a similar build to you to see if you think you want to look like that.

Hello,

Thank you. That's actually a good point about MTM and Bespoke. What I ultimately care about is that I have the right Tux for my wedding (part of the reason MyTailor is so high on my list currently - I already have some shirts made with them).

There's also something to be said for not rushing it either, I don't want to chase bespoke, just for the sake of bespoke (though one day I'd love a Chittleborough & Morgan, Michael Brown, Sexton, Thom Sweeney, or Henry Poole mainly because I love their silhouette, especially those first three).

And thank you for the suggestion about looking at suits on similar builds, that sounds like a great idea.

I really appreciate your comments. You're definitely making me keep MyTailor high on the list.

 

[SZNettles]

Hello,

Thank you. That's actually a good point about MTM and Bespoke. What I ultimately care about is that I have the right Tux for my wedding (part of the reason MyTailor is so high on my list currently - I already have some shirts made with them).

There's also something to be said for not rushing it either, I don't want to chase bespoke, just for the sake of bespoke (though one day I'd love a Chittleborough & Morgan, Michael Brown, Sexton, Thom Sweeney, or Henry Poole mainly because I love their silhouette, especially those first three).

And thank you for the suggestion about looking at suits on similar builds, that sounds like a great idea.

I really appreciate your comments. You're definitely making me keep MyTailor high on the list.

If you aren’t chasing bespoke for the sake of bespoke. I would not go bespoke. This forum is plentiful with bespoke horror stories. Many of them weddings as well. Weddings have set dates and bespoke suits do not. I personally do not have a savile row bespoke suit but I have worked a lot with mytailor. I’ve never had a bad fitting garment.

 

[dieworkwear]

If you aren’t chasing bespoke for the sake of bespoke. I would not go bespoke. This forum is plentiful with bespoke horror stories. Many of them weddings as well. Weddings have set dates and bespoke suits do not. I personally do not have a savile row bespoke suit but I have worked a lot with mytailor. I’ve never had a bad fitting garment.

I think this is really sensible advice. I would go a step further and say that the OP should at least see how he looks in quality ready to wear. If your budget is 4500, you have a lot of room to play with.

The problem with custom tailoring is that you can't return it. Maybe the fit doesn't turn out well, or the style isn't how you imagined. Some guys need custom tailoring because they can't find what they need off the rack. But I think most guys should at least see if there's an off the rack model that fits them.

I think No Man Walks Alone and The Armoury carry nice suits. I would try there first. For something more affordable, I think Spier & Mackay is better than many companies double their price. If you don't like these options, you can always return them (maybe check with them to see how pick-ups can be done during this time. Or see if they have an extended return window for when it's safe to go to the post office).

 

[soto_nw]

If you aren’t chasing bespoke for the sake of bespoke. I would not go bespoke. This forum is plentiful with bespoke horror stories. Many of them weddings as well. Weddings have set dates and bespoke suits do not. I personally do not have a savile row bespoke suit but I have worked a lot with mytailor. I’ve never had a bad fitting garment.

Thank you. Yes i think that's what I'm seeing as I get feedback here. Part of the allure of bespoke to me is the pattern, the process, and developing a relationship; but, I should primarily be aiming at finding the right suit not necessarily my perfect or dream suit.

 

[soto_nw]

I think this is really sensible advice. I would go a step further and say that the OP should at least see how he looks in quality ready to wear. If your budget is 4500, you have a lot of room to play with.

The problem with custom tailoring is that you can't return it. Maybe the fit doesn't turn out well, or the style isn't how you imagined. Some guys need custom tailoring because they can't find what they need off the rack. But I think most guys should at least see if there's an off the rack model that fits them.

I think No Man Walks Alone and The Armoury carry nice suits. I would try there first. For something more affordable, I think Spier & Mackay is better than many companies double their price. If you don't like these options, you can always return them (maybe check with them to see how pick-ups can be done during this time. Or see if they have an extended return window for when it's safe to go to the post office).

I have thought about getting more high end ready to wear like Ring Jacket. The best suits I have currently are probably my 4 Suit Supply Suits, 1 Suit Supply Sports Coat, and 1 Pini Parma suit (I both like suits and also have to wear them, with a tie, 4 days a week for work, so I've tried to focus on bang for buck). I was already planning on purchasing a Spier and MacKay Sports Coat to see how I liked their cut.

Truthfully, I've stayed away from going with more expensive ready to wear (over $1100, I think my most expensive suit was $680) because I've always felt if I was paying over $1000, I might as well just save another $400 and get an MTM suit from MyTailor. However, I never thought about getting something from Armoury and just returning it. That's genius.

The allure of going with some form of custom to me is the process and creating a relationship with someone (because I'd then like to go back and get more suits made over time)....but from the feedback I'm getting here, it seems like people are happy with MyTailor (Joe and Divij Hemrajani) - do people feel they like they're able to establish a good relationship with them (likeI said, they were already on my shortlist)?

 

[SZNettles]

I have thought about getting more high end ready to wear like Ring Jacket. The best suits I have currently are probably my 4 Suit Supply Suits, 1 Suit Supply Sports Coat, and 1 Pini Parma suit (I both like suits and also have to wear them, with a tie, 4 days a week for work, so I've tried to focus on bang for buck). I was already planning on purchasing a Spier and MacKay Sports Coat to see how I liked their cut.

Truthfully, I've stayed away from going with more expensive ready to wear (over $1100, I think my most expensive suit was $680) because I've always felt if I was paying over $1000, I might as well just save another $400 and get an MTM suit from MyTailor. However, I never thought about getting something from Armoury and just returning it. That's genius.

The allure of going with some form of custom to me is the process and creating a relationship with someone (because I'd then like to go back and get more suits made over time)....but from the feedback I'm getting here, it seems like people are happy with MyTailor (Joe and Divij Hemrajani) - do people feel they like they're able to establish a good relationship with them (likeI said, they were already on my shortlist)?

Yes you can establish a relationship with joe and divij just like any bespoke maker. Truly I don’t think they’re any different from bespoke.

 

[Andy57]

I have a very good relationship with Joe Hemrajani. Joe and Divij have made a lot of suits for me including all of my dinner jackets. If you commission them to make you a dinner jacket then I think you will likely be very happy. Don’t get hung up on the definition of bespoke. Hemrajani makes a pattern specifically for you. That is what bespoke means. Talk to Joe or Divij. Tell them what you want. That is what you’ll get.

Look at the black tie thread. All my dinner jackets have been posted in there, multiple times. I’d get another of my tailors to make me a dinner jacket...but what would be the point?

 

[soto_nw]

Yes you can establish a relationship with joe and divij just like any bespoke maker. Truly I don’t think they’re any different from bespoke.

Thank you. No, they do not seem too far off from "bespoke" only difference is that they are not doing the pattern making and cutting themselves.

I really appreciate your comments here.

 

[soto_nw]

I have a very good relationship with Joe Hemrajani. Joe and Divij have made a lot of suits for me including all of my dinner jackets. If you commission them to make you a dinner jacket then I think you will likely be very happy. Don’t get hung up on the definition of bespoke. Hemrajani makes a pattern specifically for you. That is what bespoke means. Talk to Joe or Divij. Tell them what you want. That is what you’ll get.

Look at the black tie thread. All my dinner jackets have been posted in there, multiple times. I’d get another of my tailors to make me a dinner jacket...but what would be the point?

Thank you for that response. It's good to know you've been able to forge a good relationship with them. I've only interacted with Joe once in person, he was very patient and kind during my shirt fitting. Based on their shirts (and what I've seen from your post and on Kirby Allison's YouTube channel) I know they do good work. I'm really picturing a nice tux, with dinner cuffs, and roped shoulders, all in midnight blue.

Perhaps they really are the ones I should go with for my first "bespoke" suit (wedding tux). At a minimum, they're the ones I'm really leaning towards right now.

Also, I hope you're doing well and that you and your family are staying safe and healthy.

 

[classicalthunde]

Thanks for the suggestion. Ideally I'd love to go with someone local (I'm in Sacramento, but go to LA often for family - well I did pre-Covid).

I think the problem is finding someone local that is bespoke. Fair amount of "custom"/MTM, but few bespoke options (and I'd like to go full bespoke, but am considering something like MyTailor, which has a "bespoke" option). I'm thinking of a budget range of up to $4500.

Hope you're staying safe and healthy.

I recently got a suit and have another blazer due for delivery soon from MyTailor and would definitely recommend them, they will come in well short of your $4500 budget for their “bespoke” handmade option, which does include one basted fitting and then straight to forward. Paper pattern and handmade in HK, but short of the traditional 2-3 fittings of Savile Row house’s. But it is bespoke in the sense that they can do anything you want, it’s not a list of discrete “options” from some MTM shop.

I got a top end fabric from Drapers for 1800 I think, for 4500 you could get a suit and a tux for the reception (if it’s in the evening) and probably all the accessories too.

for my budget it’s definitely the best option, although if I had yours and the timeline to make it work, I’d def think about using Steed. FWIW, Joe and Divij are great to work with as well, if your around LA you might just pop down to their shop for a meet and browse some of the fabrics they have to get a sense of the place.

 

[soto_nw]

I recently got a suit and have another blazer due for delivery soon from MyTailor and would definitely recommend them, they will come in well short of your $4500 budget for their “bespoke” handmade option, which does include one basted fitting and then straight to forward. Paper pattern and handmade in HK, but short of the traditional 2-3 fittings of Savile Row house’s. But it is bespoke in the sense that they can do anything you want, it’s not a list of discrete “options” from some MTM shop.

I got a top end fabric from Drapers for 1800 I think, for 4500 you could get a suit and a tux for the reception (if it’s in the evening) and probably all the accessories too.

for my budget it’s definitely the best option, although if I had yours and the timeline to make it work, I’d def think about using Steed. FWIW, Joe and Divij are great to work with as well, if your around LA you might just pop down to their shop for a meet and browse some of the fabrics they have to get a sense of the place.

Thank you. Yes, I would prefer a couple more fittings to ensure a great fit, but I love to see how many are happy with MyTailor (the shirts I got were the best fitting shirts on the first try I had ever worn, until I bought a bespoke shirt last year from Burgos in Madrid). I did see Johnathan Behr does bespoke in LA, but haven't seen or heard enough about him to feel comfortable. Given my own experience with MyTailor (with shirts) and what others have been saying here, MyTailor might just have to be the ones I go to.

Thanks again for sharing your experience with them. Hope you're doing well and staying healthy.

 

[bigchris1313]

Have used both High Society (suits/jackets/trousers - ~10 commissions) and MyTailor (shirts - dozens?) for the past ~10 years. Have no experience with MyTailor bespoke, but swear by their MTM shirts (as would many others on here, I suspect). Am a mid-30s native Angeleno in a white collar profession.

High Society occupies an interesting niche. It’s a bespoke product, but without all the bells and whistles. You’re paying for fit and customization—not hand stitching (though it is available for certain items upon request). And it has a price point to match—suits start at just under $2,000. If you want a great fit but can live with machine stitching, it’s a God-send (especially if you have an unorthodox build, as I do). They did my tux, and I’ve brought friends to them for their own wedding tuxes. All their work has been great. I could lecture on the pros and cons (mostly pros) for pages, but I hate typing on mobile devices—feel free to DM me if you would like my 10-year/10-commission perspective.

A quick word on non-local tailors (whether they travel to you, or you travel to them): make sure you have the time (and/or travel budget) to make every fitting you need. As you are no doubt aware, the fittings are where the magic of bespoke happens. I learned this the hard way ~9 years ago with a traveling HK bespoke tailor generally considered far superior to High Society. Even with a full basted fitting, the result was disappointing. There was no substitute for “just one more fitting,” as I enjoyed at High Society—that’s the advantage of having a local tailor. You can go back every week until your commission is “right.” If you want to use an SFO tailor, get ready to fly to SFO at least 3-4 times if you want to do it right. (And with MyTailor, you can drive to their Costa Mesa location.)

As I said, please feel free to DM me if you would like to discuss further. Cheers.

 

[lexxdeleon]

Yes, I was looking at Tailor's Keep in SF and Jonathan Behr in LA (as well as MyTailor in SoCal). My budget is up to $4500 (maybe a bit more). Ideally, I'd like a "true" bespoke option.

I haven't worked with Jonathan Behr directly, but I've commissioned some sample pieces from the workshop he uses when I was toying around with the idea of starting my own bespoke/semi-bespoke company.

You'd get your own hand cut pattern, but by the pattern maker in the workshop who won't be the one measuring you. It's mainly going to be machine made, IIRC only the arm holes are sewn by hand. Depending on the design/cut you want, they may struggle with it - I know I did when trying to get a Neapolitan style cut from them.

Based on what you've described, I don't think he's what you are looking for. But he can definitely turn out a quality garment, that workshop made my favorite pair of trousers. It's also the same workshop that makes neoprene suits for several high-profile athletes, rapper and celebrities.

High Society sounds like it would be a better option from what I've heard.