Antonio Meccariello Shoes

[JohnMRobie]

Many thanks. And...apologies, as I'm sure it's been covered many times in this thread and other places, but the special vintage pieces are supposed to be...especially buttery soft? especially tightly grained? especially prone to crease only in the finest and most elegant way? It's something to do with modern tanneries changing their practices? Or do these vintage hides come from a now-extinct breed of unicorn calves?

I think yes. I have a vintage calf from him. The pair of mine have a glazed look to it and is really dense and tight grain. Not quite shell rolls but not quite standard creasing. I’m not sure I’d call it buttery soft so much as dense and smooth.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Many thanks. And...apologies, as I'm sure it's been covered many times in this thread and other places, but the special vintage pieces are supposed to be...especially buttery soft? especially tightly grained? especially prone to crease only in the finest and most elegant way? It's something to do with modern tanneries changing their practices? Or do these vintage hides come from a now-extinct breed of unicorn calves?

Sounds like you are referring to the original Freudenberg. Buttery soft. Soft creases. An effervescent glow to them.

I would say the AM ones are as @Jmr928 described them. Dense. Tight grain. Not particularly soft (stiff even) but that is fine as the shoes will maintain their appearance for many many years.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Many thanks. And...apologies, as I'm sure it's been covered many times in this thread and other places, but the special vintage pieces are supposed to be...especially buttery soft? especially tightly grained? especially prone to crease only in the finest and most elegant way? It's something to do with modern tanneries changing their practices? Or do these vintage hides come from a now-extinct breed of unicorn calves?

You can most certainly purchase a unicorn brush!

 

[DL120]

Only seen Antonio, ACME and Gaziano (I think Nishant got a couple pairs?)

 

[DL120]

Paging @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes. I think most are box calf but it would depend on the individual leather but I also think he can do some sort of over dye maybe? Maybe @DL120 can chime in since I think he has a pair of centurions in a vintage leather that was dyed wine. For my purposes I really like darker browns and think Antonio has a hide from my birth year which I’m leaning toward using for an Aurum order but am still hung up on what model I want.

I have these in vintage annonay 90s baby calf, wine patina. Vintage leathers had a higher concentrate of “tannage” like casein, and other additives which are not good for the environment from a tanning perspective hence why tanneries like annonay and freudenberg have either changed their recipes or gone under. Now, there’s an argument I guess to be made do vintage leathers actually have better quality or do they have a different tannage not producible anymore, which resulted in a more processed result making the leather seem of better quality, when more contemporary tannage is closer to a “natural” less processed look so it has less of a perfection look. I guess it’s just whatever you like best. The annonay vintage calf is nice, I prefer the small skin, baby box calf from my Aurum pair to the vintage annonay but that’s just me.

sorry, I only have vintage skin in a centurion, I know everyone hates the look a centurion now ????. It’s a joke guys, don’t get upset and all bent out of shape. Enjoy.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

@JustPullHarder ask and you shall receive.

 

[clee1982]

love that Centurion

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I have these in vintage annonay 90s baby calf, wine patina. Vintage leathers had a higher concentrate of “tannage” like casein, and other additives which are not good for the environment from a tanning perspective hence why tanneries like annonay and freudenberg have either changed their recipes or gone under. Now, there’s an argument I guess to be made do vintage leathers actually have better quality or do they have a different tannage not producible anymore, which resulted in a more processed result making the leather seem of better quality, when more contemporary tannage is closer to a “natural” less processed look so it has less of a perfection look. I guess it’s just whatever you like best. The annonay vintage calf is nice, I prefer the small skin, baby box calf from my Aurum pair to the vintage annonay but that’s just me.

sorry, I only have vintage skin in a centurion, I know everyone hates the look a centurion now ????. It’s a joke guys, don’t get upset and all bent out of shape. Enjoy.

In terms of more tanning, you aren't necessarily adding more agents. There is a recipe afterall employed by individual tanneries. Probably you are referring to changing or amending the overall composition of the recipe. If you are referring to certain usages of chromium salts to tan the leather, I believe most of Europe (could be all) stopped using chromium VI. That was the one that was extremely dangerous. In any case, those more dangerous agents only really made the leather softer, not necessarily "better". I guess different chromium salts would have made the skins more accepting of colors, but then the current skins are more colorful than yesteryear.

If you are referring to the usage of chrome tanning (in general), I believe that process has been in use since the late 1800s and still used today. TBF, metal salt tanning has been in use for a longer period. So, someone somewhere has been using metal salts for some time.

Anyways, chrome tanning is basically what we all love to look at. Chrome tanning loves dyes. Always has and always will. Chrome-free still uses salts or a chemical elixir and if not properly contained will cause ecological damage.

Which could be the other thing you were referring to (ecological damage). If it was, you would be right. But that's more to do with an individual tannery not following proper protocol in terms of handling, containment, and keeping up with EU regulations. Not to mention the large amounts of water required.

Lastly, you could have been referring to the final step of finishing. Where they finish the hide with an artificial substance. Those substances are still added today. Probably more finishing substances presently at that.

The vintage hide itself is what is revered. Tighter grain. A beautiful aged look. Softer (due to the chromium cocktail you could have been referring to). Vibrant (though colors are more brighter now which actually is not a good thing).

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

sorry, I only have vintage skin in a centurion, I know everyone hates the look a centurion now ????. It’s a joke guys, don’t get upset and all bent out of shape. Enjoy.

I think everyone likes to loves the Centurion. Mixed feelings on the Cordovan though ?.

 

[acapaca]

Anyone here have the Centurion on the round last? I'm intrigued by that combination.

 

[jischwar]

Anyone here have the Centurion on the round last? I'm intrigued by that combination.

Here you go

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

I'm pretty confident that both @jischwar and @DL120 have the Dover. Any chance either or both of you when you have a chance can share some comparative shots?

For inquiring minds, that don't necessarily want Cordovan leather but do like the Centurion aesthetic, it would be helpful.

I'm sure you who would be curious or interested in both may already know this. For those that don't, the basic HW or Arg HW Centurion should be like 500 to 600+ less than the Dover ?.

 

[acapaca]

Here you go
View attachment 1676424 View attachment 1676423

Those are beautiful! Many thanks!

 

[jischwar]

Here is a dump of comparative shots between EG's 202/606 and AM's Soft Square and Round also some glamor shots ?. Spoiler'ed it to keep things neat and tidy

Spoiler: Pictures

 

[DL120]

I'm pretty confident that both @jischwar and @DL120 have the Dover. Any chance either or both of you when you have a chance can share some comparative shots?

For inquiring minds, that don't necessarily want Cordovan leather but do like the Centurion aesthetic, it would be helpful.

I'm sure you who would be curious or interested in both may already know this. For those that don't, the basic HW or Arg HW Centurion should be like 500 to 600+ less than the Dover ?.

I don’t have a dover. ??‍♂️