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Antonio Meccariello Shoes

4r36

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Hello guys,

Another AM's supporter here. I would like to ask you a couple of questions:

-First, going through the post I read here and there that the new Aeris models have a better leather. Can you quantify that? If I'm not mistaken, in the past years Antonio made 3+ pairs of Aeris per cut, instead of the 2.5-3 pairs he made of machine welted Argentum, 2 pairs of Argentum Dux, and 1.5 pairs of handwelted Argentum. Or, is the improvement at hand not related to the number of pairs per cut, but rather to thickness and/or overall quality of the leather?

- Second, I read that Antonio is thinking about discontinuing his machine welted Argentum line and just keeping the GYW Aeris and the Handewelted Argentum . What is your opinion about that? All the more so in this thread, there has been a long discussion about the flaws of the GYW in comparison with the Argentum construction. If I recall correctly, the whole issue does not simply come down to the reliability of the so-called holdfast, but, at least in theory, it regards the overall weight, sturdiness and flexibility of the shoe, and, last but not least, its ability to keep the footprint also after resoling. Yet it seems to me that many people now are more than satisfied with the Aeris models being offered, not caring, or simply not feeling, such a huge difference after all. Thoughts of those who possess both models?

Have a nice weekend!
 

clee1982

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CJ also has something called city sole, which I guess is a version of dainite that's slimmer, not sure if traction is any better than the usual English dainite though...
 

clee1982

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if his GYW shoe keep getting better than for most people "AW" is just "upcharage" for something they can't see or feel and if you have a large rotation, who cares what welt, even glue shoe will last..., I guess that's the problem. I personally try to support his AW just because I appreciate his effort, than occasionally dip into HW...
 

shirtingfantasy

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@4r36 - the new Aeris leather is a better leather from another tannery (Nuova Osba Italia S.P.A.).

As for @clee1982’s acute observation, yes and indeed, when you have a large enough rotation, even glued shoes can last a long time. The difference in comfort between Goodyear/ AW/ HW is complicated by lining, insole and many other factors so getting pairs from the same maker and try out could be the best way to objectively compare. I have Blake shoes that are really flexible and comfortable out of the box, and sneakers are always glued - in comfort terms alone, it’s dubious whether handwelted leather shoes can compare favourably with them, especially the latter...
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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@4r36 - the new Aeris leather is a better leather from another tannery (Nuova Osba Italia S.P.A.).

As for @clee1982’s acute observation, yes and indeed, when you have a large enough rotation, even glued shoes can last a long time. The difference in comfort between Goodyear/ AW/ HW is complicated by lining, insole and many other factors so getting pairs from the same maker and try out could be the best way to objectively compare. I have Blake shoes that are really flexible and comfortable out of the box, and sneakers are always glued - in comfort terms alone, it’s dubious whether handwelted leather shoes can compare favourably with them, especially the latter...
@4r36 I do not own the AM GYW shoe for comparison sakes. However, if it is comfort you seek, the Blake stitched shoe is the preferred stitch for 95% of any Italian maker I have used or received feedback from.

As it pertains to HW vs GYW, we will again engage in a futile debate, probably, without a satisfactory consensus. I will say that based on the statements made by say a Nicholas Templeman and DW Frommer, the HW shoe produces a ligther and more comfortable shoe. Better materials, better construction, so theoretically a longer lasting shoe.

Whilst I do not have quantifiable data to support that assertion, I can say after an initial break-in they are indeed more comfortable than any GYW shoe I have used or owned.

If your query is really concerning the direction in which to make your next purchasing decision (GYW vs HW), I would suggest the former. It is cheaper, and, at the very least, you can experience what AM's last fits and feels like. Moreover, by all indication, you are receiving improved leather at this price point within its market segment. Additionally, you would have on your feet arguably, by AM's own admission, the best made version of a GYW shoe.

If you want to upgrade the construction on any proceeding shoe, then you should purchase the HW one.
 
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4r36

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@4r36 I do not own the AM GYW shoe for comparison sakes. However, if it is comfort you seek, the Blake stitched shoe is the preferred stitch for 95% of any Italian maker I have used or received feedback from.

As it pertains to HW vs GYW, we will again start a long debate probably without a satisfactory consensus. I will say that based on the statements made by say a Nicholas Templeman and DW Frommer, the HW shoe produces a ligther and more comfortable shoe. Better materials, better construction, so theoretically a longer lasting shoe.

Whilst I do not have quantifiable data to support that assertion, I can say after an initial break-in they are indeed more comfortable than any GYW shoe I have used or owned.

If your query is really concerning the direction in which to make your next purchasing decision (GYW vs HW), I would suggest the former. It is cheaper, and, at the very least, you can get a feel for what AMs last fit like. Moreover, by all indication, you are receiving improved leather at this price point within its market segment. Additionally, you would have on your feet arguably, by AMs own admission, the best made version of a GYW shoe.

If you want to upgrade the construction on any proceeding shoe, then you should purchase the HW one.
Thank you dear,

I already own a pair of handwelted Argentum I'm really happy with. I posed the question more out of curiosity, as I would like to know whether the construction is, in fact, what Meccariello's customers value the most when buying his shoes. For my part, I appreciate, as clee1982 does, Antonio's effort to build a better shoe in all respects, including that of construction, yet over time I increasingly realize that, at the end of the day, what makes me love his shoes is, first of all, their aesthetics. That's why, for my next purchase, I may think of getting a pair of Aeris without thinking too much about the whole issue concerning GYW vs HW.
 

BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes

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Thank you dear,

I already own a pair of handwelted Argentum I'm really happy with. I posed the question more out of curiosity, as I would like to know whether the construction is, in fact, what Meccariello's customers value the most when buying his shoes. For my part, I appreciate, as clee1982 does, Antonio's effort to build a better shoe in all respects, including that of construction, yet over time I increasingly realize that, at the end of the day, what makes me love his shoes is, first of all, their aesthetics. That's why, for my next purchase, I may think of getting a pair of Aeris without thinking too much about the whole issue concerning GYW vs HW.
Then I would implore you to purchase the Aeris. Upgraded leather PLUS all the Meccariello aesthetics and stylings.👍
 
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clee1982

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By the way anyone has recommendations for short Chelsea.

i find on regular Chelsea, the back side of pants always get caught after sitting down, and if you want longer Chelsea to avoid that issue, better go with side zip to have better fit in thigh.

looking for black, so far I see CJ Chelsea 8 and Paul Stuart (might be either CJ or AS, not sure).
 

nishant

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By the way anyone has recommendations for short Chelsea.

i find on regular Chelsea, the back side of pants always get caught after sitting down, and if you want longer Chelsea to avoid that issue, better go with side zip to have better fit in thigh.

looking for black, so far I see CJ Chelsea 8 and Paul Stuart (might be either CJ or AS, not sure).
Paul Stuart made by CJ are great .. with some seasonal sales and coupons, under 300.

My personal favorite is EG Camden. Perfect fit. No problem wearing with dress pants.
 

styc

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I was only a fan of Chelsea in the mid 90s when Frank Leboeuf, Gianfranco Zola, Poyet and Terry were still there.

speaking of short boots (and totally out of point on an AM thread) but what are you guys thoughts on Sons of Henrey and Cavour house brand shoes? I saw a nice pair of Cavour suede chukkas for USD $100
 

clee1982

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Paul Stuart made by CJ are great .. with some seasonal sales and coupons, under 300.

My personal favorite is EG Camden. Perfect fit. No problem wearing with dress pants.
not these short chelsea for PS they never went on sale and priced like $800 (though sole do like CJ HG or AS)

if I’m sticking with “normal” chelsea I would just go AM I suppose
 

clee1982

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I was only a fan of Chelsea in the mid 90s when Frank Leboeuf, Gianfranco Zola, Poyet and Terry were still there.

speaking of short boots (and totally out of point on an AM thread) but what are you guys thoughts on Sons of Henrey and Cavour house brand shoes? I saw a nice pair of Cavour suede chukkas for USD $100
No idea who makes for Cavour, at~$100 it’s same as clark desert boot (if not cheaper than clark) looks like same crepe sole, so can’t go wrong if you just want experiment I suppose
 

nishant

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not these short chelsea for PS they never went on sale and priced like $800 (though sole do like CJ HG or AS)

if I’m sticking with “normal” chelsea I would just go AM I suppose
In 2019, there was an extra 50 around July 4th and then a new customer extra 25
 

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