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Antonio Meccariello Shoes

WilYa

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Actually, without making anyone unhappy, I was trying to say: if one is just after Aeris (Goodyear-welted), and doesn't require a refined finishing touch, then the remaining pairs of Aeris on Yeossal, or the expanding range on Meccariello official site remain the budget choice :p

Aeris - 2 models available (SGD 384.80/ ~USD 285 ex-VAT)

Aeris - 8 models available (EUR 356.56 - 409.84/ ~USD 395.58 - 454.70 ex-VAT)

Then of course, if one is residing in Mainland China, then the tax-inclusive price is similar. Buying from Medallion could even be slightly cheaper due to the very low shipping cost (~ EUR 10).

Medallion Collection - 8 models available (RMB 4680/ ~USD 664.50 ex-VAT, no additional tax if purchasing from China)



I discussed with Kevin Li (CEO) of Medallion before. He explained that the Medallion collection (their preferred name) is distinct from Aeris because of the finishing and last choices - which in many cases are similar to Argentum Dux offerings. And he claimed that due to these changes, they also had to pay an accordingly higher price to AM compared to standard Aeris offerings.

In summary, I would rank the RTW offerings from AM as below:

Older Aeris -> Current Aeris# -> Medallion Collection (2019)^ / New Aeris (2019/20)` -> Argentum Dux -> Argentum Handwelted* / Medallion Titanus* -> RTW Aurum

# Some leather quality issues in the past have been fixed
^ Premium finishing
` Further improved leather
* Depending on the model and leather chosen
Very informative! Much appreciated.
Are all Titanus handwelted?
 

winghus

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Actually, without making anyone unhappy, I was trying to say: if one is just after Aeris (Goodyear-welted), and doesn't require a refined finishing touch, then the remaining pairs of Aeris on Yeossal, or the expanding range on Meccariello official site remain the budget choice :p

Aeris - 2 models available (SGD 384.80/ ~USD 285 ex-VAT)

Aeris - 8 models available (EUR 356.56 - 409.84/ ~USD 395.58 - 454.70 ex-VAT)

Then of course, if one is residing in Mainland China, then the tax-inclusive price is similar. Buying from Medallion could even be slightly cheaper due to the very low shipping cost (~ EUR 10).

Medallion Collection - 8 models available (RMB 4680/ ~USD 664.50 ex-VAT, no additional tax if purchasing from China)



I discussed with Kevin Li (CEO) of Medallion before. He explained that the Medallion collection (their preferred name) is distinct from Aeris because of the finishing and last choices - which in many cases are similar to Argentum Dux offerings. And he claimed that due to these changes, they also had to pay an accordingly higher price to AM compared to standard Aeris offerings.

In summary, I would rank the RTW offerings from AM as below:

Older Aeris -> Current Aeris# -> Medallion Collection (2019)^ / New Aeris (2019/20)` -> Argentum Dux -> Argentum Handwelted* / Medallion Titanus* -> RTW Aurum

# Some leather quality issues in the past have been fixed
^ Premium finishing
` Further improved leather
* Depending on the model and leather chosen
Where does standard Argentum welted on the AM website fit into that list? IIRC Argentum Dux is different from Argentum welted.
 

frighter3

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Where does standard Argentum welted on the AM website fit into that list? IIRC Argentum Dux is different from Argentum welted.
But how do you determine it is Titanus or no in taobao
 
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shirtingfantasy

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shirtingfantasy

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Where does standard Argentum welted on the AM website fit into that list? IIRC Argentum Dux is different from Argentum welted.
At the risk of making some people unhappy, I extend my list below...

Older Aeris -> Current Aeris# -> Medallion Collection (2019)^ / New Aeris (2019/20)` -> [GMTO Argentum ->] RTW Argentum [-> single MTO Argentum] -> Argentum Handwelted* / Medallion Titanus* -> RTW Aurum

# Some leather quality issues in the past have been fixed
^ Premium finishing
` Further improved leather
* Depending on the model and leather chosen

I have carefully inspected the Argentum single MTO pairs I have, and the pictures on Meccariello and vendor website carefully. The conclusion was that the quality difference between "standard Argentum" and "Argentum Dux" has probably vanished - with the previously lower-level brought up to the Dux or higher level.

For example, if you look closely at the welt and closing of this pair of Argentum RTW:

It's quite clear that the finishing is more similar to the Argentum Dux welt finishing:

Conclusion 1: due to continuous production upgrades, webshop Argetnum is at least Dux or above

The second proposition pertains to the differences between GMTO, RTW and single MTO (SMTO). Without going into details of my observations of Argentum Dux and Argentum GMTO I have personally seen and inspected, I would just state that if leather quality is a priority, strategically one should consider ordering an SMTO, particularly in an uncommon colour/ leather. This gives you the highest chance to get the "first cut" of the leather - almost feels like a complimentary upgrade to Aurum leather. :cheers:

Then, of course, there are still other differences between Argentum and Aurum. Getting the prime cut can get you closer to Aurum, but there are additional differences include tannage of the outsole leather used (Argentum: 14 months vegetable tanning; Aurum: 18-22 months vegetable tanning) which translate into qualitative differences.

Conclusion 2: AM pricing is ultimately fair - you pay more, and you get more
 

winghus

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AM's site says essentially Titanus is better finished Argentum with some better construction too:

However, Titanus and ARGENTUM Ready To Wear shoes have specific features that differentiate them .

Most definitely Titanus processing is more involved. Titanus superior quality is made with higher end materials which amount to a 25% increase in cost and requires 30% more time to complete.

Titanus line is sold exclusively with lasted shoe trees

1) The Titanus models shoe line models are exclusive and are not included in the ARGENTUM Ready To Wear shoe line(but it is possible to find some similar patterns on MTO section)

Some models in specific have been developed in accordance with Medallion’s CEO, Mr. Kevin. Therefore these models are exclusive to Medallion store in China.

In addition, Ready to Wear Argentum models can be adapted to specific lasts upon request, exclusively for Medallion.

2) The Titanus shoe line includes both custom models (created on a specific order or request from Medallion ) and models included in our MTO shoe line, available immediately, no mandatory wait time required (usually about 18 to 20 weeks).

3) The Titanus Footwear welt finishing process takes a longer time,
About twice the time than a standard ARGENTUM line

4) Leather Selection:

All our shoes are produced with premium whole box calf leather, average size: 14 to 16 square feet, thickness: 1.4 – 1.5 mm

As in the production of most high-class footwear, we only use the central part of the calfskin ( the one that goes from rump to belly). However, given the size of the leather and the type of tanning, only a few pieces can be obtained from each calfskin.

Our selection of cuts includes:

Aurum: 1 pair from a single cut of box calf leather
Argentum Handwelted: 1 – max 1.5 pairs from a single cut of box calf leather
Titanus Hadwelted = 1 – max 1.5 pairs from a single cut of box calf leather
Argentum base: 2.5 – max 3 pairs from a single cut of box calf leather
Titanus high end material selection is not limited to the best box calf leathers but also vintage and limited quantity leathers. The extreme care used in material selection makes Titanus a high end and exclusive footwear line.

5) The waist working process

The Titanus footwear waist working process is carried out by hand with a special tool and takes a lot more time to be closed and completed than it takes to produce an ARGENTUM Basic model. It is made similar as a blind waist

Compared to Argentum, Titanus requires on average a 20% increase in production time to allow attention to fine details. The result is a very appealing shoe with lines similar to bespoke footwear and finished with blind welt waist. Shoe waist can be round or square as requested by Medallion.

Titanus Waist

6) Titanus uniqueness lies in the specific selection of its lasts which are made exclusively for Medallion, such as Chisel3 and Chisel-Medallion, for example, which were designed and produced in order to accommodate the customers’ requests provided to us by Medallion.

The following are the models made exclusively for Medallion and include also some exclusive lasts for the shop.

Chisel M o chisel 3=exclusivelye last for Titanus RTW

Round Classic Last with specific Asian Fit = exclusively for Titanus RTW

Romulus Brogues on Mayfair 1 last

Last AD 90 Exclusiveli for Titanus At Medallion

Titanus Chisel A R square exclusively for Titanus at Medallion’s

These are the guidelines of our production process made according to customers or retailers request. It would also be possible to request a square waist instead of a round waist for Titanus footwear due to seasonal adaptations or esthetic changes, without affecting the premium quality and attention to details typical of all our products.



To me it comes down to is it worth almost double the price for the better finishing. Since 900-1300 euros is more than I'll ever pay for a pair of shoes, to me the answer is no. To many the answer is yes. YMMV. Medallion also doesn't seem to carry sizing above 43 which leaves me out. I was first interested in AM for the Argentum welting and the styling of the hawksbill last. There is a pre-order model on chisel2 that really strikes my fancy right now also. So many wants, so few needs, LOL.
 

shirtingfantasy

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AM's site says essentially Titanus is better finished Argentum with some better construction too:

However, Titanus and ARGENTUM Ready To Wear shoes have specific features that differentiate them .

Most definitely Titanus processing is more involved. Titanus superior quality is made with higher end materials which amount to a 25% increase in cost and requires 30% more time to complete.

Titanus line is sold exclusively with lasted shoe trees

1) The Titanus models shoe line models are exclusive and are not included in the ARGENTUM Ready To Wear shoe line(but it is possible to find some similar patterns on MTO section)

Some models in specific have been developed in accordance with Medallion’s CEO, Mr. Kevin. Therefore these models are exclusive to Medallion store in China.

In addition, Ready to Wear Argentum models can be adapted to specific lasts upon request, exclusively for Medallion.

2) The Titanus shoe line includes both custom models (created on a specific order or request from Medallion ) and models included in our MTO shoe line, available immediately, no mandatory wait time required (usually about 18 to 20 weeks).

3) The Titanus Footwear welt finishing process takes a longer time,
About twice the time than a standard ARGENTUM line

4) Leather Selection:

All our shoes are produced with premium whole box calf leather, average size: 14 to 16 square feet, thickness: 1.4 – 1.5 mm

As in the production of most high-class footwear, we only use the central part of the calfskin ( the one that goes from rump to belly). However, given the size of the leather and the type of tanning, only a few pieces can be obtained from each calfskin.

Our selection of cuts includes:

Aurum: 1 pair from a single cut of box calf leather
Argentum Handwelted: 1 – max 1.5 pairs from a single cut of box calf leather
Titanus Hadwelted = 1 – max 1.5 pairs from a single cut of box calf leather
Argentum base: 2.5 – max 3 pairs from a single cut of box calf leather
Titanus high end material selection is not limited to the best box calf leathers but also vintage and limited quantity leathers. The extreme care used in material selection makes Titanus a high end and exclusive footwear line.

5) The waist working process

The Titanus footwear waist working process is carried out by hand with a special tool and takes a lot more time to be closed and completed than it takes to produce an ARGENTUM Basic model. It is made similar as a blind waist

Compared to Argentum, Titanus requires on average a 20% increase in production time to allow attention to fine details. The result is a very appealing shoe with lines similar to bespoke footwear and finished with blind welt waist. Shoe waist can be round or square as requested by Medallion.

Titanus Waist

6) Titanus uniqueness lies in the specific selection of its lasts which are made exclusively for Medallion, such as Chisel3 and Chisel-Medallion, for example, which were designed and produced in order to accommodate the customers’ requests provided to us by Medallion.

The following are the models made exclusively for Medallion and include also some exclusive lasts for the shop.

Chisel M o chisel 3=exclusivelye last for Titanus RTW

Round Classic Last with specific Asian Fit = exclusively for Titanus RTW

Romulus Brogues on Mayfair 1 last

Last AD 90 Exclusiveli for Titanus At Medallion

Titanus Chisel A R square exclusively for Titanus at Medallion’s

These are the guidelines of our production process made according to customers or retailers request. It would also be possible to request a square waist instead of a round waist for Titanus footwear due to seasonal adaptations or esthetic changes, without affecting the premium quality and attention to details typical of all our products.



To me it comes down to is it worth almost double the price for the better finishing. Since 900-1300 euros is more than I'll ever pay for a pair of shoes, to me the answer is no. To many the answer is yes. YMMV. Medallion also doesn't seem to carry sizing above 43 which leaves me out. I was first interested in AM for the Argentum welting and the styling of the hawksbill last. There is a pre-order model on chisel2 that really strikes my fancy right now also. So many wants, so few needs, LOL.
And the hand-welting. :cheers:

Just to make it clear, I wear Blake shoes as well and hence I am not a disciple of the @DWFII school (which considers Goodyear an inferior mass-production technique and handwelted construction is the way shoes should be made). The handwelting "feature", included in the Titanus package, would additionally cost you about EUR 200-300 from AM, depending on how you order your pair.
 

winghus

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Conclusion 2: AM pricing is ultimately fair - you pay more, and you get more
I would agree with that based on everything I've researched, unlike some other manufacturers. I just hate my personal limit on cost for a single pair of shoes is well below the level of finishing I want from AM. Maybe an SMTO is the way to go like you say.
 

shirtingfantasy

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I would agree with that based on everything I've researched, unlike some other manufacturers. I just hate my personal limit on cost for a single pair of shoes is well below the level of finishing I want from AM. Maybe an SMTO is the way to go like you say.
Indeed that's what I usually suggest to friends, even for their first pair of AM shoes. :)
 

spencert

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discussed with Kevin Li (CEO) of Medallion before. He explained that the Medallion collection (their preferred name) is distinct from Aeris because of the finishing and last choices - which in many cases are similar to Argentum Dux offerings. And he claimed that due to these changes, they also had to pay an accordingly higher price to AM compared to standard Aeris offerings.

In summary, I would rank the RTW offerings from AM as below:

Older Aeris -> Current Aeris# -> Medallion Collection (2019)^ / New Aeris (2019/20)` -> Argentum Dux -> Argentum Handwelted* / Medallion Titanus* -> RTW Aurum

# Some leather quality issues in the past have been fixed
^ Premium finishing
` Further improved leather
* Depending on the model and leather chosen
Thanks shirt fantasy for the detailed explanation. Granted, Medallion’s Aeris has better quality leather, the price is almost same as Argentum welted. I would rather go for webshop Argentum welted. Or Y by Yeossal AM line would make more sense.

Indeed that's what I usually suggest to friends, even for their first pair of AM shoes. :)
Fully agreed. 😁
 

winghus

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And the hand-welting. :cheers:

Just to make it clear, I wear Blake shoes as well and hence I am not a disciple of the @DWFII school (which considers Goodyear an inferior mass-production technique and handwelted construction is the way shoes should be made). The handwelting "feature", included in the Titanus package, would additionally cost you about EUR 200-300 from AM, depending on how you order your pair.
I have a couple of Blake shoes and they're fine for their purpose and slimmer looking on top of that. The wife has a Blake rapid pair of boots which is considered above Goodyear w/gemming and they serve their purpose well also.
 

spencert

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I have a couple of Blake shoes and they're fine for their purpose and slimmer looking on top of that. The wife has a Blake rapid pair of boots which is considered above Goodyear w/gemming and they serve their purpose well also.
His blake shoes are Berlutis.... :p
 

shirtingfantasy

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Revisiting "historical" menswear articles and legendary threads is always interesting.

Devils in Deco

"men now value the handcraft that goes into a pair of English shoes so much that they are willing to pay twice the previous standard for high-end footwear. Around half the price of bespoke, and they aren’t even made bespoke..."

"...a bevelled waist, with the upper cut very close to the sole, by hand, to create a rounded, enveloping effect on the arch; heels that are pitched forward in line with the heel cup, or narrowed, so that they continue the line of that slim waist; and extra hand finishing on the upper, to echo the look of an old, bespoke pair of favourites."

Oh, and there wasn't yet AM, not to mention Aeris. Now you can get all these, and more, for about EUR 410 (ex-VAT). :fistbump:

Principes 2 (Aeris line G.Y )In Ciliegia Imperiale di Caserta(cherry )
1225589
 

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