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Antonio Meccariello Shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by goodlensboy, Sep 21, 2012.

  1. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Distinguished Member

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    The Decanus model.
    Got these from Yeossal.
    Really love the color. It's called "Caffe Tostato".

    2018-01-12-10-53-43.jpg
     

  2. nickrut

    nickrut Distinguished Member

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    How are the Centurions? Was all ready to jump in on the GMTO and then he posted those up for sale. How do they compare to the EG Dovers?
     

  3. nkapped

    nkapped Active Member

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    Actually, I'd be quite keen to hear how the AM Centurion compares to the Vass Kaan by Ascot Shoes. If anyone has experience of both, please share.
     

  4. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Distinguished Member

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    @nkapped
    The Kaan, Centurion, and Dover use the same technique for the apron stitching (pie crust) and the split toe seam (round closing). Both these techniques are done fully by hand.

    I don't have a pair of Kaans yet as my order is still under way and about 9 weeks from completion. But in terms of construction (handwelted), the Kaan is superior to the Centurion and far superior to the Dover. You could of course MTO the Centurion as handwelted if you wished.

    Vass outsoles are hand stitched, but at a fairly low SPI. Both the Centurion and Dover have machine stitched outsoles. If you were to commission the Centurion as Aurum though, then the outsoles would also be hand stitched. The structural benefits of hand stitched outsoles vs machine stitched outsoles, is somewhat less significant as that between handwelting and goodyear welting. At least imo.

    In terms of bottom work, Vass is fairly no frills. The welt finish is pretty meh, but there is a subtle beveled waist, and no fiddleback. I would expect this to be the same for all their shoes, the Kaan included. You've seen the bottom work on Meccariellos, they are the best of the 3 by quite some way. The Dovers are the worst.

    So, in summary, the Kaans win on the subject of construction, the Centurions are in second place in terms of construction, but overall most nicely finished and has the best bottom work. The Dovers are worst all round, in terms of construction, finishing, bottom work.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018

  5. nickrut

    nickrut Distinguished Member

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    What color did you get thunder? Considering a pair myself.

    May now have to do the Kaans and the gmto from Antonio
     

  6. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Distinguished Member

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    Please write a book on your (educated) footwear rants. I’d happily support you taking shots at the established hierarchy of quality men’s footwear!
     

  7. CLTesquire

    CLTesquire Senior Member

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    I don’t know if Vass is doing something different with the Kaan but I have never felt that a Vass shoe was better finished than an Edward Green shoe. That’s based on having 4-5 pairs of each and having to remove a pen mark off one pair of Vass and sole edge dressing slopped on the leather of several others.

    I have no comments on how they relate to AM.

    There also that little thing called fit to consider.
     

  8. nkapped

    nkapped Active Member

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    @ThunderMarch

    Thanks for the detailed commentary my friend! And to think that the Dovers are the most expensive of the lot.
    As I suspected, it's a relatively tough fight between the Centurion and the Kaan and seems to be construction vs overall aesthetics.

     

  9. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Distinguished Member

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    Fit was never part of the discussion.
    And as for finishing, I've certainly never seen anything particularly extraordinary on a pair of EGs. Sole edge dressing on uppers of EGs? Have certainly seen that. A pair of Malverns I once owned but have sold (good riddance) had that as well. Welt finish? Fudging? Sole edge? Heel stack? Outsole stitching? Waist? Anything special? Nothing.

    But really, the BIGGEST slap in the face is construction. Well over 1000 bucks (at least in my currency), and for goodyear welting, REALLY?

    @nickrut walnut museum

    @nkapped you're welcome my friend

    @ericgereghty Well, it certainly wasn't a post about personal prejudices. Was merely stating facts.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018

  10. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    never own any Vass, had EG (sold, though not dover)/GG (still has, though not hove) and AM (not centurion...), in term finishing and bottom, AM wins EG all day, GG has certain aesthetics that if you like then you would probably stick with it.
     

  11. bamboo

    bamboo Senior Member

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    I mostly agree with @ThunderMarch . I own two Dovers, and one pair of similar model from GG. I do not own Kaan or Centurion. Dover is an iconic model from EG and it is a kind of reference of apron front derby and it carries premium and should be easier to sell if you decided to part with it. Looking at the picture, AM apron front looks to be slightly different from other two. If you have an access, see all of them in real and try them on.
     

  12. clee1982

    clee1982 Stylish Dinosaur

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    dover is probably also more a between casual and dress shoe where everything I see form AM tends to be on the dressy side (so is GG hove), i.e. just a bit sleeker. If I know my soft square sizing for certain I would definitely get Centurion (plus it's in stock on yeossal)
     

  13. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Distinguished Member

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    Indeed! That’s why I found the take so refreshing!
     

  14. NJE66

    NJE66 Senior Member

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    Alright then, another day another pair of shoes. Big-ups for @ThunderMarch and the participating gentlemen making the MTO possible.

    I, on the other hand, should be ashamed of myself after another purchase.

    Seriously friend, how to go and maintain cold turkey?
     

  15. Wingtip77

    Wingtip77 Senior Member

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    I own shoes by Vass, Edward Green, George Cleverley, and hopefully soon something a bit special from Meccariello, but without doubt my favourites are my EG Dovers (so far). I don’t get too worked up about the technicalities of shoes, I’m more about how the look and feel, but more importantly how they make me feel, and my Dovers make me feel a million dollars.

    Whilst it’s important to recognise the craft that goes into making things, there is more than construction method that defines quality.
     

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