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Antonio Meccariello Shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by goodlensboy, Sep 21, 2012.

  1. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    As sexy as I find G&G's models, especially the Deco line, I agree totally. For the cost of the Deco line, I'm fairly certain you can go the Aurum route + test shoes and (I believe) still have a bit a cash leftover.

    Really hard to compare.
     
  2. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    Anyway, let's get back on topic.
    I apologise, but I've had enough talking about "high-end" English RTW makers, makes me deeply sick to my very core.

    I actually wanted to share a bit about my experiences with Antonio's Argentum last fits.
    Here is a side by side comparison of (from left to right): AM Chisel 1 (UK9), Vass U last (42.5), and Enzo Bonafe 946 (8.5).
    Based on calculations on his website, I fell more or less into a UK 9E. This is a half size up from what I normally wear. Upon wearing the chisel 1 last, I do feel that the length is fairly accurate. The Chisel 1 last feels more generous in the toebox and vamp but with an equivalent instep compared to the U last.
    It is actually a fairly close approximate to the 946 last half size down, but it does look slightly longer, as you can see in the picture.
    In terms of the heel, the Chisel 1 has a more generous heel compared the U.
    It gives me an overall good fit half size up, but I think the facings might eventually close up and I might possibly require a thin sock liner in future.

    [​IMG]

    Next up, this is a side by side comparison (from left to right) of the: Argentum Round last (UK9E), Enzo Bonafe 804 (UK8), and Enzo Bonafe 74945 (Uk8.5)
    The Argentum Round last is less straightforward to fit.
    I had once again gone a half size up to UK9 for this. Immediately, I could feel that this last is more generous overall compared to the Chisel 1.
    It is more generous in the toe box and vamp compared to the 2 other mentioned lasts. But in terms of length it is more or less equivalent.
    The tricky thing here is the length, which you can see, is actually pretty short for a UK9. I would consider just taking my normal size in this, but might run into issues with length.
    I feel that my ideal size in this, would be in between Uk 8.5 and UK 9.

    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  3. beargonefishing

    beargonefishing Senior member

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    The 46.5 U last fits me like a glove. The AM website recommends 12.5 for my foot, but it looks like your experience says .5 up from U last, meaning I should probably go 13. Accurate?
     
  4. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    To be honest I am not quite sure. The EU sizing system and the UK sizing system isn't a direct translation.
    Meaning the difference between a 42 and 42.5 is somewhat less than the difference between an 8 and 8.5.
    A 42.5 is also slightly smaller than an 8.5.
    A "finer" sizing scale so to speak.
    What I can advise is this. If you have a lowish instep. You probably don't need to go a half size up for this. Especially since the toe box isn't a narrow one.
     
  5. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    Anyway, this is an update regarding the GMTO:

    First, here are all the necessary details.

    Model: Hastatus two tone adelaide oxford (Pictured below)

    [​IMG]

    Last: Chisel 2 (also as in above picture)

    Material (C): Box calf
    Colour (C): Antiqued Brogue Super Waxed (Pictured below)

    [​IMG]

    Material (A and B): Pin grain
    Colour (A and B): Chestnut (Pictured below)

    [​IMG]

    Sole: Single leather, option for toe taps will be allowed, extra cost accordingly
    Shoe trees: Optional and allowed, extra cost accordingly
    Widths: Different widths will be allowed, extra cost accordingly

    Cost of shoe: 491 Euros (outside of EU), not including shipping

    What will happen is that Antonio will create a page under his "MTO Special Order" section for the GMTO. And we will all place our orders on our own. He will give me a bunch of 15 to 20 discount codes, to be used, so that the discount for the shoes will be applied accordingly.
    This percentage discount, will not apply to things like width alterations, or shoe trees, these of which must be paid in full.

    For those who are confirmed in, do drop me a PM to indicate as such, so when I receive the discount codes, I can send them to you guys accordingly.

    These are the SF members who have expressed interest in this GMTO:
    @beargonefishing
    @nickrut
    @Elessar
    @nkapped
    @hst
     
    2 people like this.
  6. dalevy

    dalevy Senior member

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    If you send Antonio your measurements (or if he has your personal last), can he not just tell you what size would be best?
     
  7. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    Yes, he gave me pretty good sizing advice based on that as well.
     
  8. canon5dfan

    canon5dfan Well-Known Member

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    Ugh I really want it but I just bought a pair from him lol.

    Curious why you went with the pin leather calf combo? Was it cost? Or just style haha
     
  9. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    Please do not feel obliged.
    The decision for a two tone with pin grain was purely stylistic. The subtle contrast in texture would add a nice dimension to the shoes, I think.
    It would have cost exactly the same if it was fully in regular boxcalf.
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. nickrut

    nickrut Senior member

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    Thunder - how do you compare his uppers to someone like john lobb who has access to the best of the best?
     
  11. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    I've not, and never will, wear a pair of lobbs. But have scrutinized them closely in Isetan Japan. I'll admit lobb and gaziano use very decent leather for their uppers. But handling my recent argentum acquisitions, I would place them at least on par. The leather on my decurion is especially exquisite.
    When you receive your aurum pair, your will also realise the leather is incredible all round. His aurum and bespoke grade shoes all get the first cut. The very best.
    I have a pair of Anthony Cleverleys though. Very unspectacular compared to Antonio, to be very honest.

    By the way, are you still interested in the gmto?
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2017
    1 person likes this.
  12. canon5dfan

    canon5dfan Well-Known Member

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    How would you rate lobb against his argentum semi bespoke?
     
  13. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    If you are talking about lobb RTW.

    It's not even close. Plus his argentum mtm range is handwelted.

    No offense.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2017
    2 people like this.
  14. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    But... Let's just stick to talking about Antonio yes?
    I don't wish to offend any more people.
     
    2 people like this.
  15. 02///M3

    02///M3 Senior member

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    Does anybody have the "Dark Oak with a misty/nuvolato effect" leather on their Meccariellos? It looks very subtle in the pictures online, but I'm afraid in person the misty effect would be more pronounced. Is that the case? I'm not a huge fan of things like museum calf, so it's causing me to hesitate. If they were simply dark brown I'd have placed an order for the RTW Decurions already.
     
  16. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    In the post #2462, the first picture actually shows the RTW decurion in nuvolato. It's very subtle. Quite unlike museum calf.
     
  17. canon5dfan

    canon5dfan Well-Known Member

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    None taken. I just recently joined the shoe game so I'm glad to have received some validation and didn't spring for some lobbs :D
     
  18. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    Generally, when I look at shoes, outside of fit, 3 things (plus maybe a 4th) come to mind (in this order of importance for me):

    1) Construction
    2) Uppers
    3) Finishing and details
    4) Last shape and overall aesthetic

    The 4th point being possibly the most detached, from objective quality.

    The overall construction forms the backbone of the shoe. The inseam joins the insole (through the holdfast) to the uppers and lining, and then the welt. The very structural integrity rests directly on this. Unfortunately, this is completely invisible to the user who doesn't know of construction techniques. Who then bases his judgement of the shoe quality, solely on what he can SEE. Handwelting (done correctly) takes significantly greater effort and results in a much more structurally solid pair of shoes, simply because a holdfast is first carved directly from a sufficiently thick insole, and there is a direct leather to leather connection for the inseaming to be done. In GYW, this process is replaced by a fabric strip glued / cemented to the insole. IOW, the structural integrity of your shoe, rests solely on this glue. The shoemaker's stitch used for handwelting, is also superior to the chain stitch used for GYW.
    Please observe this video here:

    And observe roughly from 6:55 onwards, how the machine worker effortlessly rips off the welt from the gemmed, welted shoe. This is the kind of poorly constructed stuff that's being touted as the BEST.

    Antonio is unique in that he has come up with a way of constructing his shoes, that eliminates the problem of gemming, by machine carving the holdfast, from a handwelt thickness insole. The inseaming is also performed by machine. While not as solid as handwelting, it represents a significant improvement over GYW.

    Apart from this, Antonio also does the above 3 other points very well. His finishing, and detailing is pretty much on another level. Also, as discussed previously, I have no clue, how he manages to machine stitch the outsole, and yet achieve such tightness at the waist.

    Even his designs and lasts, I am sure he has spent an inordinate time preparing and developing. You will notice that his style is not overtly Italian or European, but something in between that and English.
     
    4 people like this.
  19. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    I'm also in, 491 euro is pre or post discount code? I'm going to ask Antonio which size to get.

    Regards, Tor
     
  20. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    Post discount code.
    Thanks, I will keep you in the loop.
     

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