• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 8: Cuir de Russie card case from Equus Leather

    We are very proud to present this year's edition of the Styleforum Holiday Charity Auctions, this year in support of the Ronald McDonald House Charities of Spokane (www.rmhcspokane.org). Each Auction lasts 24 hours. Please follow and bid on all the auctions.

    The 8th auction is for a Cuir de Russie card case from Equus Leather. Please bid often and generously here

    Fok and the Styleforum Team.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Antonio Meccariello GMTO Ideas

What colour would you like for this GMTO?

  • Antiqued Grey

    Votes: 13 39.4%
  • Grey museum calf

    Votes: 13 39.4%
  • Chisel 2

    Votes: 13 39.4%
  • Soft Square

    Votes: 12 36.4%
  • Argentum Welted

    Votes: 10 30.3%
  • Handwelted

    Votes: 17 51.5%

  • Total voters
    33

beargonefishing

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2009
Messages
7,460
Reaction score
6,182
Not sure if the idea of a wholecut Chelsea is for everyone, but I am making the following GMTO proposal for the community's suggestion. In the worst case I can always order on my own as a single-pair MTO :bounce2:

Background

Wholecut Chelsea boots are not made by many high-end makers. It's apparently made only by those who started off with much determination for making the shoes in the good, old way e.g.

Gaziano & Girling "Burnham", Goodyear-welted, GBP 1300 + VAT
View attachment 1213556




J.M. Weston "700 Chelsea", Goodyear-welted, EUR 900 + VAT
View attachment 1213578

Recently I acquired a pair of Horween hatchgrain boots from Medallion (Antonio's China retailer) during their summer sale. For the first time, I found that this kind of not-so-luxury leather actually has an addictive property.


After two rounds of Saphir wax: a gorgeous patina developing at an incredible pace. The smoothed-out grains at the toe and heel areas certainly add another dimension to the texture of the shoes - something that would be even more interesting on a pair of wholecut chelsea.

View attachment 1213579

The proposal

Model:
Pilus Prior (one-piece wholecut, vertical seam at the back)
Construction: Argentum welted
Leather: Horween hatchgrain (see here for the colour options available from Horween's UK dealer) [? Sienna ? Saddle brown]
Last: ? Round ? Mayfair

The price for single pair MTO is about EUR 850. Using the formula by @ThunderMarch, a successful GMTO campaign would be able to bring this model down to about EUR 680 (-20% from single pair price).

Personally, I would prefer saddle brown or chestnut, which gives my collection a sort of colour variation. But Sienna is certainly a lovely and versatile shade. If that is the popular colour I am happy to go with it as well.

Any thoughts?

Antonio's wholecut Chelsea "Pilus Prior" in pigskin (style reference) - to be realized in a brown/ dark brown Horween hatchgrain
View attachment 1213629
I would love to join, but don't want to order more until I have a good handle on my size. Unfortunately that won't happen until I get the last GMTO shoes delivered. If you circle back to this in December/January, I'm in.
 

shirtingfantasy

Senior Member
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
276
Reaction score
352
@samu12ai Noted. I have three pairs of Chisel 2 and the last shape is very beautiful. Just wonder if other lasts may be more “classic”, since when I look at my shoes I find the sharp Chisel shape to be slightly aggressive. What do you think?

@beargonefishing Actually we are aiming at 12 pairs instead of the minimal 6, so it may take a while to launch. The added advantage of a slightly bigger GMTO, obviously, is for the benefit of participants who may want a different width like @samu12ai 😉

@clee1982 Thank you!

And just saw a recent post from AM Instagram to show how the darker ox-blood hatchgrain would look like in real. It’s quite uniformly brown. Perhaps sienna, by virtue of its lighter colour, can allow for more pronounced antique effect?
 

samu12ai

Active Member
Joined
May 19, 2017
Messages
26
Reaction score
5
I actually like the mayfair last. Already have a pair of loafers on the round last so want to mix things up
 

shirtingfantasy

Senior Member
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
276
Reaction score
352
Same reasoning here, I actually don’t have Mayfair 😂

But the major consideration should be: which last looks best for chelsea boots? I heard, though, that Hawksbill is very good for boots...
 

shirtingfantasy

Senior Member
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
276
Reaction score
352
That should be fun :)
Could consider:

1. Keeping the kudu for texture
2. Change cordovan to smooth calf to contain cost for GMTO purposes
 

frighter3

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2018
Messages
166
Reaction score
23
  • Model: Centurion (Split Toe Derby with Handsewn Apron)
  • Constructions
  • Argentum Welted
  • Leather:
  • smooth box calf
  • Color:
  • Dark Brown
  • Last:
  • Chisel 2
  • Sole:
  • Oak Tanned
It seems the price for handwelted is a bit high and AM doesn't want to do.

If I changed into this spec, any of u guys still interested?
 

boot_owl

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2017
Messages
282
Reaction score
161
Hastatus 2 GMTO update...

We're in the tail end stages. Mostly left with heel attachment, dyeing and finishing.

Estimated completion late Jan 2020.

View attachment 1291930

View attachment 1291931
Hang on, weren't the heel counters meant to be peaked?

No problem guys.

I've read through your inputs and thoughts.

I think that as a group, we are most polarised in terms of whether we should go for contrast facing and heel counters, or not.

Personally, and not just in the interest of wanting the GMTO to happen (God knows I already have far too many shoes), I think the make up would work either way. Honest truth.

The pin grain itself is something that has a really subtle texture, especially from a distance, so it's not immediately apparent. It doesn't really add much in terms of "loudness" (if that's the worry). However, it does make things a little more interesting when you look at it close up.

Here is a link to some pictures, which I feel best represent the overall "look".


That being said, this make up is slightly different because the facing and heel counters are peaked. So it's already rather unique in that sense. So for the sake of not making things too busy, and if you were to put me on a spot, I would say no contrast. But of course, it's not a big deal to me.

With regards to colour, I have never handled a pair in Castagna Del Prete, so I'm not totally sure how dark it is. But I'll say this, Caffè Tostato is a really gorgeous shade of dark brown. Dark oak is really really dark, it's safe and still quite nice, but indoors it looks near black. So I think most folks would find Tostato preferable.
 

ThunderMarch

Distinguished Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2014
Messages
1,733
Reaction score
1,755
Hang on, weren't the heel counters meant to be peaked?
You're absolutely right.

So sorry, I was so busy at work I didn't notice.

At this point of time, I guess there are only 2 possible scenarios.

1) This design will not work, and you'll want the peaked heel counter seams. This will necessitate a remake. Which Antonio will do, but the downside is an extended wait (May-ish?)

2) You aren't bothered by the heel counter seam and are ok with what it is currently. The pairs will be finished as such. And we'll work something out with Antonio.

To avoid clogging up the main thread, do drop me a PM (here, IG, or WhatsApp) to let me know which group you are in?

Thanks guys.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 30 3.7%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 141 17.3%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 265 32.5%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 129 15.8%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 70 8.6%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 48 5.9%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 25 3.1%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 22 2.7%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 17 2.1%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 7 0.9%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 9 1.1%
  • 100+

    Votes: 52 6.4%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
429,035
Messages
9,227,331
Members
193,696
Latest member
teleutosporifer
Top