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Antonio Liverano, Florentine tailor

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Apr 17, 2013.

  1. greger

    greger Senior member

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    That is a nice coat. For more roundness it could have more of sleeve caps. In other words, not dropping off so quickly from the shoulder. In cutting the lapel the bottom part could have more belly. The breast dart holds it shape better. No breast dart looks cleaner when chest well shaped. An old rule, some tailors liked, not all, the least amount of seams showing the better, that includes the shoulder seam back out of sight. The roll of the lapels at the bottom should be identical. How straight or crooked the coat is cut can be seasonal and climate. After all, hot weather and open quarters is airy. Closed quarters helps keep the heat in when colder. Some is style, fashion or practical. Italian men love colorful garments. American men are afraid of them. Tis a shame the Americans don't have the freedom.
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2016


  2. Stugotes

    Stugotes Senior member

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    I think the shape (not the cloth...) of that orange jacket above is about as perfect as it gets. Sadly, the prices Louis Cappelli quoted were too high for me. Not Liverano level, but not desirable MBT[​IMG]-prices either.
     


  3. P-K-L

    P-K-L Senior member

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    I did :)
    One of the few bespoke tailors visiting Moscow on a constant basis.
     


  4. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    I doubt that the red coat is for a Italian customer.
    Said this,i like Cappeli much more than Liverano; the lapels are not so large (in true Italian 1950s-60s style),the garnment is clean,the quarter less open but still round.
    Is a great single breasted,and .
    More,the not frontal darts ( that is a different to "no darts",as in American Ivy league tradition) thing are a very rare feature today,both in Italy and in UK.
     


  5. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    I have a morbid question, which I will try to ask delicately.

    Can this house survive the passing of Mr. Liverano? How much responsibility does the old maestro still bare on his shoulders right now, be it in tailoring or business means. Is there a suitable substitute to lead this house when the time comes?

    What percentage of tailoring houses continue to flourish after their founders have passed I wonder? Especially those that don't have family in the business to continue them...
     


  6. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Too many years upon his shoulders...
     


  7. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Four ways spring to mind.

    A well-known and respected tailoring house can survive the founder's death by:

    1. training the founder's child or children in the House Style, and turning the business into a family legacy

    2. training a talented non-filial tailor to become the cutter once the founder is no more

    3. turning the business into a RTW company that regurgitates the past work and fame of the founder, and markets accordingly

    4. a combination of the above

    All of these models require, of course, a combination of luck, skill, contacts, "quality" garments and finding and serving a niche.
     


  8. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    Well,is difficult to said.
    In Italy we have only a case of great tailoring house survived to the death of master,and perpetrated with less or more the same style:
    Caraceni.
    A part Rubinacci, the Italian tailoring houses system is different by the Saville Row system.
    In Saville Row the tailoring houses are firms,in Italy artistic "botteghe".
    We have a "maestro" that develops his cut and his style that is individual.
    Can be some features in common in a city,but the style of great tailor is individual,his hand is recognizable.
    When the Maestro retires or die let learners that are trained in his shop,and that keep on the style...but...
    .....but if the learner is mediocre his work will be a pale imitation of the Maestro style,if is capable and fine develops his own personal style.
    For exemple the Neapolitan tailor Renato Ciardi is said the heir of great Maestro Angelo Blasi,but the excellent style of Ciardi is different to Blasi cut that was more structurate.
    Luigi Cappelli (that is not Florentine but from Puglia and live in Florence only from 1982) had as Maestro the Florentines Vladimiro Mealli and Armando Di Preta,but he have a own style,not the house style of those tailors.
    So in Italy is very difficult keep alive a tailoring house after that maestro passed away.
    Rubinacci instead work as Anderson & Sheppard or Huntsman:is a firms (also if a family firm) with a management,and engage cutters.
    The style is less or more similiar,but obviously can change a lot with the cutter.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2016


  9. greger

    greger Senior member

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    The 1890s the business coats were still the body coats. When the lowly lounge and reefers started moving up the ladder the tailors had to figure out how to make it of the higher standard. It was found that the breast darts made it more durable for the work horse it became, which is why darts won out. The darts are not required, they just hold up better. So it is nice to see these coats without them now and then.
     


  10. greger

    greger Senior member

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    The way I was told is that each cutter developes his own cut, pretty much, but adapts it to the current trends. There are always exceptions, like A&S. And, times change.
     


  11. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    You have right.
    For exemple,today in Naples ( especially foreigners customers) ask for soft cut,spalla camicia and so.
    So the tailors fof Neapolitan structurate school (the Blasi School) make they too spalla a camicia,soft interiors...
    And is a pity.
    Liverano and Cappelli's coats have the darts,but are slanted darts,diagonals from the pockets to the armpit.
    Is a type of dart clean and pleasent,i agree.
     


  12. greger

    greger Senior member

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    Carpu65,
    "Liverano and Cappelli's coats have the darts, but are slanted darts, diagonals from the pockets to the armpit.
    Is a type of dart clean and pleasent, I agree."

    Believe one of my granddads coats was cut this way. He spoke of the competition for bringing these coats up to meet the new standard for them. Regional and individual competition. The lowly lounge put tailors imagination to work. Maybe it would be like trying to make a snowboarder coat into a business coat?
     


  13. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    Liverano (and Cappelli) look is very close to the Italian look of 1950s,that had in Florence many great exponents (Nativo,Rettori,Speciale,Di Preta,Rossella,Giuntini,Maltagliati the young,De Vita,Franchi).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2016


  14. Haroldwong

    Haroldwong Active Member

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    Does he always do extended shoulders? It kinda intensifies the overall silhouette of the jacket.
     


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