Antica Camiceria Luciano Lombardi - Napoli - Bespoke Shirt

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by marcodalondra, Apr 18, 2012.

  1. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Few months ago, on a quest for my new favourite shirthmaker, I commissioned several shirts from different makers. For a series of events, I have only just received this shirt and decided to review it.

    After making an appointment I turned up to meet Luciano Lombardi in person at his large workshop/office in an industrial complex in the south east part of town. Although I brought my own Carlo Riva Lenght of shirting, I checked what they had in stock there, and I believe they have visrtually every possible books available as well as many bolts of cloth.

    Mr Lombardi in Person took my measurements and together we discussed the collar option and shirts other details, including the choice of hand finishes (he noted that nowadays many opt for a full machine made shirt to save the extra charges for hand embroidery).

    Few months later, when I finally managed to make it back there, a Muslin shirt was waiting for fitting. They cut a model shirt for fitting out of actual shirting fabric they have in stock, most probably old patterns that could not be sold today, that also include a muslin collar made of the exact shape of the final version. The patterns was slightly adjusted and finalised, and it will then be stored for future reference. The shirt the went into production and was ready approximatelly 3 weeks later.

    The cut is slightly looser comfy that my other shirt but overall very nice and definetelly well made:

    The fit:
    [​IMG]


    The folded shirt:
    [​IMG]


    The Carlo Riva Fabric:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    great fabric! one day id love to make at trip over for this experience.
     
  3. P-K-L

    P-K-L Senior member

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    How much hand work did you get? How is your quest going - who is your favourite so far?
     
  4. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    The usual 8. I ended my quest a while ago, but this shirt had been ordered before I settled for my current shirtmaker.
     
  5. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Just received the above two shirts which I ordered before the summer. The one on the left is made of Carlo Riva's Linen/cotton blend and the one on the right of UW Irish Linen.
     
  6. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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  7. P-K-L

    P-K-L Senior member

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    The buttonholes look good!

    I like the honest statement on the label too :)
     
  8. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    Who is your current shirtmaker? Have you ever tried Anna M?
     
  9. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Thanks for updating the thread, well wear!! Would love to know how they wash and wear over time as well.
     
  10. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    The post you are referring to was from April 2012. I have been using a shirtmaker for over two years but had to switch for some issues. I considered Lombardi as good from day one, but had longer lead times. I can now live with that and I will be ordering mainly from him.

    Never interested in AM, as I do not like the way her shirts fits on most customer, and some other reasons I mentioned in related posts.

    Mactire,

    I will try to keep you updated
     
  11. P-K-L

    P-K-L Senior member

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    By the way, since the buttonholes look so nice - could you take some more detailed pics of the rest of the handwork? Grazie!
     
  12. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    I have to do it with a proper camera as I do not like as close in comes out with the iPhone. But I can assure you that the finishing is second to no one.
     
  13. etkl

    etkl Senior member

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    Thanks
     
  14. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Here as some of the close up pictures.
    Invisible hand felling and yoke double stitch
    [​IMG]

    Travetto and single convertible cuff with hidden button on extended thread
    [​IMG]

    Horizontal last buttonhole
    [​IMG]

    The next two are some close up of their machine stitching, the best I have seen amongst many Neapolitan makers. Lombardi must have very good machine operators as I find their machine work as neat and clean as Charvet, which are probably the best machine built shirts in the world
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Tail/front panel curved hem reinforced with same cloth triangle
    [​IMG]

    finally, the best Initials embroidery amongst all my shirts
    [​IMG]
     
  15. mactire

    mactire Senior member

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    Gorgeous work & beautiful shirts Marco, you're a lucky man!
     

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