Another tux/Dinner jacket thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by palim, Nov 11, 2013.

  1. palim

    palim New Member

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    Hello,

    even though i already read all the Tux/DJ threads, I still got some open questions. I would appreciate if someone could give me some responsie :)

    I am going to a weeding next spring. Ceremony starts at 4:00pm. For this reason I want to buy a DJ - my first one. It will be bespoke, so I got much opportunities, but also alot of decisions to be made. Here are some thoughts:

    I thinking about getting a midnight blue, shawl collar with side vents. I am not sure about the colour. In my opinion it should be a bit darker than this:

    :[​IMG]

    Do I wear black trousers or the same colour as the jacket? What material is normally used for the lapel? I am not so much in this shiny-material.

    Thank you,
    palim

    English is not my native langugae, so I apologise for every spelling and grammar mistake.
     


  2. economicus

    economicus Member

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    Trousers should match jacket. Grosgrain lapels are subtler and classier than satin imo. Color should be dark as possible. Ventless is preferred. And in case the pic gives you any ideas, skip the wing collar shirt.
     


  3. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^^ Welcome to SF. You are correct that the jacket should be a good bit darker than the one on that model. Midnight blue should be pretty darn close to black and definitely darker than navy. If it's not a true midnight blue, you are better off with a black tuxedo. Trousers should always be the same color as the jacket. Grosgrain is a more subtle option than satin, though both are acceptable.

    Shawl lapel tuxedos require a spread collar shirt (not a wing collar which can only be worn with peak lapels or better yet, white tie). Ventless is technically more correct than side vents. If you truly want side vents even though they're technically sub-optimal, get them since a competent tailor should be able to sew the vents shut later.
     


  4. Orsini

    Orsini Senior member

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    Small side vents are OK, but vent-less is preferred.
     


  5. palim

    palim New Member

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    Maybe this image wasn't a good example^^. I plan to buy a white spread collar shirt with cuffs and concealed button panel (hope that is the right english expression), a self-tied modern butterfly bow (black), a cummberbund (black) and black (captoe) oxfords.

    As I am not so experienced I am most scared of choosing the right material. I hope my tailor helps me out with it, but it is never bad to be well-informed :)

    I normally only wear side vents on my suits. How is the comfort with no vents? Especially if you sit down, it might feel strange?
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2013


  6. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^^ Not sure what you mean by concealed button panel but a spread collar tuxedo shirt should have room to insert 3 metal studs (4 is more common now and fine if you must but 3 is more traditional and will work if your tuxedo fits properly (don't have a too high buttoning point for your jacket and if you have trousers that rise to your natural waist on anything, the tuxedo is the place to do it). Other details sound good.

    I've never found the ventless jacket to be that uncomfortable and also have all of my suits with double vents. If anything, I find the tailor can nip the jacket a wisp more at the waist if there is no worry about the vents flaring out.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2013


  7. Nine Miler

    Nine Miler Senior member

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    Archibald, I'm pretty sure he means a fly-front shirt, on which the placket is covered by material eliminating the need for studs, as they would be hidden anyway.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2013


  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Figured he might mean that. Really don't like that look.
     


  9. Nine Miler

    Nine Miler Senior member

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    I don't care for it either, but I guess if you are going to do it, the context (shawl collar, cummerbund) make it more palatable. I think the best application for this is with a DB coat where there is less shirt showing, but I am not sure there is a truly "good" application for a fly front. This is my opinion, of course.
     


  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ Agree that the above context (shawl collar tuxedo plus cummerbund) is the best way to do it if it's going to be done at all.
     


  11. palim

    palim New Member

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    I meant that. Found the transaltion on the internet, but fly-front shirt is the word i searched for :D I thought it is more "clean" than black studs. Well, i wil think about it.

    Some random question - why do you insert "^" in front of your posts?
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2013


  12. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ References the above post when I don't feel like quoting.
     


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