Another Suit Fit Question - Critique my fit please

[f-tard]

Hi all, I'm looking for help with a suit fit critique. I posted this up in the tailor's advice thread but didn't get any response, so I thought I'd try creating a separate thread. I got a MTM slim tux made for a wedding and am looking to order another suit from the same company. Overall I think they did a pretty good job the first time considering it's MTM and supposed to be slim style. Now that I'm going to do a second one, was looking for ways to improve the fit...any suggestions/critique/feedback would be appreciated. I'm thinking slightly higher armholes or to slim down/taper the sleeves a bit, adding some light padding to the shoulders and a hair longer inseam for the pants. There are areas in my back/neck that look to be pulling and the wing/chest area seems like there's more room but not sure how to fix those. I realize jacket length is always debated but I'm fine with the length. Any thoughts on what else I can do to make things look better for my next MTM order? Thanks in advance.







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[yls2012]

The main issue seems to be bumps on your right shoulder. Not sure what's causing them but you could have them look into it.

I think the jacket and pants could stand to be a tad longer. This might make them appear slightly more formal. It's fine as it is now, which is a trendier look.

 

[f-tard]

Thanks YLS for the feedback. Yeah, I notice the bump...think light shoulder pads might do the trick. I'm more curious whether higher armholes might help bring a little more form to the chest area. Any thoughts?

 

[knoll45]

The length of the jacket and trousers need to be a little longer, about a couple of inches.

 

[GBR]

There is something that is not very nice in this evening dress but as you have had it made your ability to return and start again is limited.

The coat is1-2" too short as indeed are the trouser's which do not nearly approach you shoes let alone a decent break. Quite what is afoot with the body and shoulder of the coat I cannot be certain but either way it does not look good. Maybe you are trying too hard to emphasise the slim fit.

I would certainly not patronise this maker again - I assume it is on line so your measurements/instructions may be adrift.

 

[HughJ]

I think a couple inches would be overdoing it. Adding a hair to the sleeve length alone would be nice, the rest is within a tasteful range IMHO.

edit: I take that back, the view from the back emphasizes just how short the jacket is.....it really could use a couple inches.

 

[Brendon]

Hi Ftard cannot give you any advice from your photo's other than to say a very well cut suit will stay relatively still when you lift your arms. Your suit is trying to fly over your head. However post a side on a front on and a back on and stand naturally (not upright as if on a parade ground) and I will be happy to offer some advice for what it's worth
regards
Brendon

 

[f-tard]

Thanks for the feedback. As I mentioned, this is a slim suit and the styling is such. As YSL said also, it's fine for the trend that it's going for (no break trousers and shorter jackets). I was more looking for suggestions on how to smooth out the shoulders and some of the areas in the back. I do think the MTM did a pretty good job for what this is supposed to be - a slim suit. I think it's a bit extreme to say not to patronize this vendor again just because it's not the styling you favor. Thanks.

 

[Axxl]

Dear Sir,

there is, in my humble opinion nothing wrong with the overall slim line. You don't look as big to me as you couldn't wear some shaped jackets. But unfortunately, your MTM service did not get the measures right.

Lets start from the back, top down: The shoulder crease in the right shoulder (from the back side picture) clearly comes from a spine with is not straight but slightly s-shaped (from left to right to left again, not the natural curve but looking from the back side frontally on it!). Not clear to my eye if it is posture on the pic or permanent. The horizontal creases below the neck are a sign of a wrong measurement, too. It is at least half an inch too narrow in the upper section. Above your waist, again creases, this time too much fabric in that area. Overall length is according to current standards (a bit shorter than in previous years. Unfortunately not too appropriate with a formal suit).

The front of the jacket: Same creases on shoulder from stance or spinal problem, which leads to the conclusion, that it is a spinal / orthopedic issue, which your tailor or your doctor should take care of, in the long run, the doc option is cheaper, as I may add). Chest area looks fine again until the lower section of the left lapel (in the pic, so your right lapel). Too much fabric there, which in co-operation with a too tight upper button section makes for the crease.

Arms: Armholes could be a bit narrower but this step has to be well thought of. On a suit you want to wear often armholes too tight lead to premature fatigue of the cloth due to the constant movement of the arms along the chest. So a bit more is ok. But not on a formal suit with which you probably whish to dance in! Arms in general are too roomy and not correctly positioned as you can see from the flow of the fabric pulling on the front side and creasing on the back of your upper arm. These must be taken out, drawn around until the fit with a fluid non-creasing fall and then be resewn.

I apologize for my bad language! I am not english mothertongue. And of course for the lenghty post.

Best
A

 

[f-tard]



However post a side on a front on and a back on and stand naturally (not upright as if on a parade ground) and I will be happy to offer some advice for what it's worth
regards
Brendon

Thanks Brendon, I'll try to post some more photos. I see what you're saying about the jacket trying to lift off my body. Seems like there should be a bit higher of armholes and the quarters underneath that should be cut closer with more fabric? I see what you mean by a well-cut suit won't do this. For the side-on, front-on, back-on...the photos I have right now, are they not natural enough? Should I do same position, but just loosen up so it's more natural?

Lets start from the back, top down: The shoulder crease in the right shoulder (from the back side picture) clearly comes from a spine with is not straight but slightly s-shaped (from left to right to left again, not the natural curve but looking from the back side frontally on it!). Not clear to my eye if it is posture on the pic or permanent. The horizontal creases below the neck are a sign of a wrong measurement, too. It is at least half an inch too narrow in the upper section.

Thanks Axxl, this is really helpful and useful information!! Your response helps me gain a better understanding of fit and how fabric should flow rather than blanket statements like "jacket too short." Learned a lot from your response. I've noted the areas that you mentioned in the neckline and above the button stance, and I'll adjust for this in the next round. Thanks for all the information you provided, I understand armholes and sleeve widths a lot better now. Though I'm not sure if I quite understand the point about my spine curve. How are you able to tell from the shoulder bump that my spine is going left to right to left instead of straight down? I'm goign to take some more photos and see if it was just my stance. Thanks for your time and typing such a thorough response, appreciate it.

 

[Axxl]

Dear Sir
Very welcome. Appreciate your comments. Should you find it useful me having a comment on the trousers fit, respectively not exactly fitting areas, just let me know.

So in order to clarify my point with your spine, could anyone not as computer stupid as me do us a favour here and dram a thin red line into that photo with f-tard standing with the back towards the photographer? the vertical line should meet the neck thread of the jacket in the middle and run down straight. Same (with the neckties knor as center) for the full front shot. I will then be able to explain i bit further what alteration might help to balance this posture.

Thank you!

Best
A

 

[lysandar]

Might not the bump in the right shoulder line simply be a lack of accounting for the dropped right shoulder? Left shoulder is clean after all.

 

[Axxl]

@ Lysandar: Actually not, it is much more than just a dropped shulder, the whole upper body has a slight C-shape as you will notice when looking at the creases in the torso under (left to) the right arm. The suitmaker simply did not take the proportions into account. And this is why people turn to MTM or bespoke, right? Otherwise they could go for OTR. I would not accept such a big mistake as a client.

 

[Needsmoreshoes]

I'd have to say the trousers are perfect but that's apparently just me; I prefer no break at all, occasionally -ve break (but not for formal). I'd say the jacket could be a decently longer so as to cover your ass. Try and get the shoulder bumps seen to though.

 

[joeman]

the suit is quite short in my opinion.