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Another Singapore bespoke suit critique thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dbc, Mar 13, 2010.

  1. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    No offense intended at all, but really? From Mohan's - the same guys who do 24hour suits at Far East Plaza?

    Very surprised if it really is the case!


    Well, I specifically asked for it, and it took significantly longer than 24 hours! Something like 5 working days I think. To my untrained eye, it looks canvased. Anything that I should look out for?

    +1

    Those pants needed to be tapered below the knee to something like 8" wide at the hem, maybe 8.5" to stay conservative.

    The sleeves also need a taper.


    Ok great, I'll go measure it when I get off work.

    If anyone could answer my earlier questions about where on the shoulder the shirt should end, as well as, where the cuff should end, that'd be great.

    Cheers.
     
  2. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    *bump*

    Anybody? Taking it for alteration today after work.
     
  3. chrisb0109

    chrisb0109 Senior member

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    something like this would look more proportional with the jacket.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    something like this would look more proportional with the jacket.

    What do you mean?
     
  5. chrisb0109

    chrisb0109 Senior member

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    The legs of the trousers are narrower and shorter It will create a better line and match the jacket better. As is, the jacket is proportionally more fitted than the trousers.
     
  6. Simon4rings

    Simon4rings Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm.... Full canvassed, Super 130s, 5 working days at only S$1000. Either you got a very good bargain or something doesn't add up
     
  7. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    The legs of the trousers are narrower and shorter It will create a better line and match the jacket better. As is, the jacket is proportionally more fitted than the trousers.

    Yep will do. Cutting an inch off and tapering to an 8inch hem below the knee as advised.

    Hmmm.... Full canvassed, Super 130s, 5 working days at only S$1000. Either you got a very good bargain or something doesn't add up

    Well, they work on Sat too and it was over the Chinese New Year break so I'm assuming an Indian tailor would have less customers? In anycase, do let me know if there are any telltale signs (or photos I can put up) that I might not have gotten what I paid for...

    Also, any idea on the shoulders and shirt cuffs please? [​IMG]

    Thanks!
     
  8. gshen

    gshen Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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  9. the_sartorialist

    the_sartorialist Senior member

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    Adding on to gshen's suggestion, I'd normally look / try 2 things to a jacket to see if it's fully canvassed:

    1. Pinch the fabric off the chest area to see if you are 'catching' just a single layer of the fabric (compare the thickness / feel of the fabric to the sleeve), or if you are 'catching' more like an extra layer together with the fabric. If it's the former, you should be able to feel the layer of canvas between the fabric and lining in your other hand, akin to the 'floating' canvas effect. If it's the latter, you are most likely gripping the fused interlining that has glued itself to the fabric.

    2. Flip the lapel and examine the underside to see if you can notice any padstitches. If it's a clean, smooth finish, I understand this would indicate the lapel is fused.
     
  10. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Adding on to gshen's suggestion, I'd normally look / try 2 things to a jacket to see if it's fully canvassed:

    1. Pinch the fabric off the chest area to see if you are 'catching' just a single layer of the fabric (compare the thickness / feel of the fabric to the sleeve), or if you are 'catching' more like an extra layer together with the fabric. If it's the former, you should be able to feel the layer of canvas between the fabric and lining in your other hand, akin to the 'floating' canvas effect. If it's the latter, you are most likely gripping the fused interlining that has glued itself to the fabric.

    2. Flip the lapel and examine the underside to see if you can notice any padstitches. If it's a clean, smooth finish, I understand this would indicate the lapel is fused.


    Hey chaps, sorry for the late reply. I've been so busy that I'm only taking down the thing for alterations this weekend.

    Haven't had time to look at GShen's suggestions but yes, I am just catching a single layer of fabric and I can see padstitches under the lapel [​IMG]
     
  11. ctc79

    ctc79 New Member

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    I'm not exactly an expert on this but I think your suit looks solid! Looks good to me.
     
  12. Chouse

    Chouse Senior member

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    +1

    Those pants needed to be tapered below the knee to something like 8" wide at the hem, maybe 8.5" to stay conservative.

    The sleeves also need a taper.

    The suit is in drastic need of a pressing, which surprises me because as its supposedly 'recent', I have to wear a pair of pants 3-4 times to take the crease out that much.

    If you havent already, strongly consider getting a setup that allows you to press your suit well, it'll help things stay sharp looking.


    Care to elaborate on what you are referring to? A brief search didn't bring anything up [​IMG]
     
  13. Martin Stall

    Martin Stall Senior member

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    The chest looks pretty good, must be a nice bit of chestpiece in there. Sleeves are a mess, I would take it back. Sleeve pitch is way off, and the outside of the sleeve hem is higher than the inside. Trousers are too long.
     
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The collar looks too low and loose; the buttoning point is way too high.
     

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