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Another Singapore bespoke suit critique thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dbc, Mar 13, 2010.

  1. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    First, thanks to everyone for their help here. Went for the bulk of the advice, except I went for Super130 wool instead of Mohair. This is a fully canvased suit, 2x vent, 2x button. Took it over the course of 2 fittings, over 3 weeks. Did it together with the double-cuff, light blue shirt, made of two-ply cotton. Total cost was about US$670. This is my first ever bespoke, even tailor made, suit. I am generally happy with it, although I'm aware that it may require some alterations. [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] This is another shirt made about 4 months ago. At a different tailor. Also double-cuffed and made of two-ply cotton. Cost me about US$90. [​IMG] Comments welcome and appreciated!
     


  2. Kentishman

    Kentishman Senior member

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    Trying to bear in mind some comments may reflect personal stylistic leanings rather than pure fit assessments , I'll try to remain objective on what looks a solid suit to me. The top shot make some proportions appear odd, most likely due to the below-waist level angle of shot. This is serving to make the buttoning point seem too high. The jacket looks pretty spot on, but the trousers could perhaps benefit from having 1/2-1" off. They also appear more full in the leg than the jacket would suggest. The shirt sleeves do look a bit too long though – seeing where the shoulder seam falls, I wonder if they are too wide across the shoulder? I'm not entirely sure where the seam is meant to fall, but a quick fix would be to simply have the sleeves shortened, although you may need to reduce the suit jacket sleeves accordingly.
     


  3. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Trying to bear in mind some comments may reflect personal stylistic leanings rather than pure fit assessments , I'll try to remain objective on what looks a solid suit to me. The top shot make some proportions appear odd, most likely due to the below-waist level angle of shot. This is serving to make the buttoning point seem too high. The jacket looks pretty spot on, but the trousers could perhaps benefit from having 1/2-1" off. They also appear more full in the leg than the jacket would suggest. The shirt sleeves do look a bit too long though – seeing where the shoulder seam falls, I wonder if they are too wide across the shoulder? I'm not entirely sure where the seam is meant to fall, but a quick fix would be to simply have the sleeves shortened, although you may need to reduce the suit jacket sleeves accordingly.
    Thanks for the comments. Yep, I think I'll take the trousers back and get about 1.5 inches taken off. What do you mean by more full in the leg? Also, do you reckon the shirt (which one are you referring to, or both?) has too much fabric across the shoulder? Thanks!
     


  4. Kentishman

    Kentishman Senior member

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    The trousers appear to be straight-legged, which make them seem to ahve excess material as they get nearer your feet. It's real nit-picking, and I don't think anything to get hung up on.

    As for the shirts, I'd kind of take my earlier comment with a pinch of salt too; too little fabric in the shoulders would make them restrictive and uncomfortable, so I would leave the shoulders, but definitely shorten the sleeves. It would be interesting to see the back of the shirts to see how they are fitted there.

    Also, definitely wait to see what some of the more experienced posters ahve to say!
     


  5. pkiula

    pkiula Senior member

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    Hi. Which tailor made this for you? And did 670 include shirt etc?
     


  6. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    The trousers look a tad long - he break is too 'full' but altogether a decent start. The coat looks quite good, maybe slightly in need of some iron work during construction to take out the marginal excess but that does not detract. I assume that it is canvassed and you chose not to have flaps on the side pockets?



    The other views that can be helpful are the rear view without the coat on and the inside of the coat to review the detailing that the tailor has used. Can you get these.

    Who made it?
     


  7. the_sartorialist

    the_sartorialist Senior member

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    Dbc,

    I won't repeat most of the comments stated above, but I would query if the cut of the jacket shoulder was intended the way you wanted? Maybe it could be the angle of the photographs, but from the rear view of the jacket, the shoulder width looks to be marginally big, such that the drape of your sleeve at the edge of your shoulder looks like it is dipping back into your arm? It's more significant in your right shoulder than your left shoulder..

    Maybe opt for a shorter shoulder width, or less padding?

    And it would be helpful to share which tailor produced this...
     


  8. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    did you get the shirt and suit at the SAME place? Have you washed the shirt a few times to take out the expected shrinkage?

    Because the fit is terrible.


    Button point of jacket is too high
    Shoulder of jacket is off
    Sleevehead of jacket are off too, maybe even the pitch
     


  9. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Hi. Which tailor made this for you? And did 670 include shirt etc?

    Yep, shirt included. This is the tailor's website.

    The trousers look a tad long - he break is too 'full' but altogether a decent start. The coat looks quite good, maybe slightly in need of some iron work during construction to take out the marginal excess but that does not detract. I assume that it is canvassed and you chose not to have flaps on the side pockets?



    The other views that can be helpful are the rear view without the coat on and the inside of the coat to review the detailing that the tailor has used. Can you get these.

    Who made it?


    I'll get that done in a bit soon, thanks.

    Dbc,

    I won't repeat most of the comments stated above, but I would query if the cut of the jacket shoulder was intended the way you wanted? Maybe it could be the angle of the photographs, but from the rear view of the jacket, the shoulder width looks to be marginally big, such that the drape of your sleeve at the edge of your shoulder looks like it is dipping back into your arm? It's more significant in your right shoulder than your left shoulder..

    Maybe opt for a shorter shoulder width, or less padding?

    And it would be helpful to share which tailor produced this...


    I'll take a look at the shoulder padding again in a bit. I actually got them to take out quite a bit of the padding already.

    did you get the shirt and suit at the SAME place? Have you washed the shirt a few times to take out the expected shrinkage?

    Because the fit is terrible.


    Button point of jacket is too high
    Shoulder of jacket is off
    Sleevehead of jacket are off too, maybe even the pitch


    Actually no, as of taking the photographs, I hadn't wash it yet. I'll take photos after a few wears.

    What are you mean by sleevehead of the jacket is off?
     


  10. hymo

    hymo Senior member

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    The jacket is done very nicely. Nothing wrong with either sleeves or sleeveheads.

    Trousers are definitely too long. You may also want to look into side adjusters instead of belt loops in your next commission. They are more comfortable.

    Shirt cuffs in both cases are too loose, and as such ride too low. The green shirt is terrible. Shoulders too wide, torso too billowy, and armholes too low.
     


  11. Lowndes

    Lowndes Senior member

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    Looks very nice for the most part. My only two observations are (1) the trousers need to be shortened and (2) the trousers could use some tapering below the knee.
     


  12. Chrenetique

    Chrenetique Senior member

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    Jacket : nice fit. Too much fabric floating in the back, between your shoulders. Button point looks a bit too high, but the angle of the picture can mislead.

    Trousers : too long.

    Shirts : sleeves are too long.
     


  13. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Ok, I'll take the trousers in on Tuesday to get some tapering and an inch or so off.

    Just a quick question with regards to the shirt. Where should the the shoulder width of the shirt end? Same goes with the shirtcuffs?

    I'm hoping the blue (not green [​IMG]) shirt shrinks a bit in the wash. I'll take it in then to see if the torso still is too big.

    Thanks chaps.
     


  14. nate10184

    nate10184 Senior member

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    Pants need to be shorter and need to be tapered. They should be narrower at the bottom. Otherwise I think it looks okay.
     


  15. nate10184

    nate10184 Senior member

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