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Another Korean Bespoke Suit Fitting

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ho1joon, Jun 11, 2012.

  1. ho1joon

    ho1joon Active Member

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    Seoul, Korea
    For the first time, I commissioned cumtom-made suit from another tailor shop, not Sartoria Vanni which I used to order a suit.

    The name of the store is 'Spolverino' I think a few of you guys living in Korea have heard of this shop.

    (BTW, as you know, Spolverino is an italian word meaning 'a jacket or a coat which is made without lining or canvas'. However, the store 'Spolverino' does not produce 'Spolverino-ed' suits only. and my one is lined and canvassed. Spolverino-ed one's price is much higher than normal ones. Because it costs more fabric and they stitches much of that part(inside) by hand)

    The store opened in Feb. this year and IMO, successfully positioned in the Korean high-price bespoke suit market. The representative director maps out the store's style, and the tailor(who is prominent figure in korean tailoring field) make it into a real piece. You can see their products at www.hanrhan.com if you also want to 'read', you better browse it with google translator.

    Come back to the original subject,

    Though this is the first order, as you see in the pictures, Fitting is very fine. There might be different preferences on their style, at least this is fairly nice in tailoring respect I think. Interesting feature about this suit is that the tailor used extended front dart style but not make side body and fore part into one-piece. I knew that they used to use extended front dart and one-piece front, but they use other technique on my suit. Full chested effect is observed and also fine handwork on padding stitch is also captured(I will post the completed suit when they finish. You will see the enormous handwork of theirs) The suit will be completed in this week, I'm so look for it.




    * I forgot to take a picture of the back, it was clean. I will post the back picture when I received the completed suit.




    Basted Fitting





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    Forward Fitting





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    Last edited: Jun 12, 2012
    6 people like this.
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looks very good. There is some very good work done in Korea. Have always heard that shops have different ratings regarding the style and quality of work they do. Do you know anything about this?
     
  3. quar

    quar Senior member

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    Looks great. What fabric did you choose?
     
  4. hammer07

    hammer07 Senior member

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    Thanks for sharing. Looks great.
     
  5. robinsongreen68

    robinsongreen68 Senior member

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  6. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Isn't that's the poshest tailor shop in Koera? look very nice
     
  7. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Looks good already, it will be interesting to see the finished suit and compare it. You have good taste, have selected your tailors well and get them to do a good job for you.
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If anyone is interested this is a good visual of a unique way try-ons are prepared by Korean Tailors.

    The first try-on has no pockets or darts cut. Nothing permanent is done on the cloth. Equivalent of a muslin try-on.Tailors in other countries do the same but the way they baste the cloth and canvass together is unique here. The cloth is laid face down to the canvass and basted along the front edge, then flipped over so the face of the cloth is on the canvass. This gives a finished edge when trying the jacket. This step is unique to Korean methods. Long, easy basting to hold the canvass in place and you have a first fitting. The long seams on the jacket and sleeves are overlapped and top basted to hold them together. Saves time by not basting the seam,opening seams with an iron and then top basting, and no creases from pressing to remove. Taking the time for a fitting like this shows the integrity of the tailor to the process of making a suit and doing his best for a client.

    Second fitting has the cloth basted to the canvass in the conventional manner. The darts are cut and sewn, breast pocket and lower pockets are sewn in. The edges are turned and basted. That's why you see the cloth turned over on the edges here and not on the first try-on. Nothing has changed with the sleeves.

    Jacket looks like it is well balanced and will have some style. The front dart is extended to the hem and it looks like they are using a side body too. That's unusual.
    This may be a more expensive shop but they are doing things well.
     
    2 people like this.
  9. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    ho1joon's threads are some of my favorite ones around here.

    :nodding: :inlove: :bigstar:
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2012
  10. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    Thank you ho1joon for sharing this and best wishes on the suit progress. Thank you Despos for your input. This is very educational.
     
  11. ho1joon

    ho1joon Active Member

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    a few of the shops(e.g. SEGI) used to have diffrent ratings which is seperated by labels(SEGI for example, They had 'Bespoke', 'Bespoke Classic', and 'Napoli Sarto') However as far as I know, these seperations are almost obsoleted.



    I picked it from Drago 130's bunch.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2012
  12. incontro

    incontro Senior member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2012
  13. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Excellent stuff.

    Incontro, if you don't mind me asking - what in particular was so disappointing about your SR experience?
     
  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    In my opinion, it takes a great effort to ensure the big SR tailors to do their work with care, it is quiet hard for the non frequent customer
     
  15. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Senior member

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  16. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    Interesting you should say that about SR. I've been bumping into the guy who manages (and owns?) HP quite frequently at social occasions recently, and I have to say the way he dresses in abominable. Considering the global prestige of the House, the sight of him has had me turning in my sleep for months.

    In addition to that, a friend of mine had a suit made up by Norton & Sons not too long ago. He was drawn there by the personality of Patrick Grant and the overall branding of the House (traditional yet open minded, their love for English cloth, their links to the fashion world, &c.) and he was really disappointed with the result. I don't think the suit they made him looks bad, but the armholes were lowish and the overall body was a bit flaccid. Certainly disappointing for £3.5k-ish.

    I've also seen recent examples of G&H, and they're pretty crap (I know they're Chinese-owned now).
    And I've seen a suit made recently by Kilgour [French & Stanbury], and it pales in comparison to the KF&S suits my grandfather had made 30-40 years ago.

    I'm too young to go bespoke yet, but I've been planning my first few bespoke suits recently and Savile Row is looking less and less appealing. I know that A&S, HH, Dege, and Steed still (generally) get very good press, but I'm leaning more and more towards Italian tailors. And I'm a born & raised Londoner/Home Countier.

    @topic
    I've been very impressed with Korean tailoring and style recently - at least with the images floating around the blogosphere. Your suit looks like its going come out brimming with Italian panache. Very nice.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2012
  17. incontro

    incontro Senior member

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    Last edited: Jul 14, 2012
  18. indesertum

    indesertum Senior member

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    how much does spolverino charge?
     
  19. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I had experience with them before as a non-client basic, there are few reasons I believed that why their work had been declined.

    1. Less people appreciate the time and accuracy to make a garment, in the real world there are plenty of people who can afford them one regular basic, but they would prefer world class RTW due to ease of time, that means there are less and less long term client, which brings their sales at very low point, Witt he high rent, they must charge a great premium to get some decent profit.

    2. Great heritage brings too much pride, the establishment of more young fashionable tailoring brand (In my arbitrary comment that will be Oz, Cad when they host their day in C&M, CB), high street brand e.g. A&F, the spirit of the old man had been defeated, they are like the soldiers retreating from the war field.

    Their target market had dropped, higher price to run business, plus poor skills in advertising, thats the death formula for that street.

    p.s. the legal field from the world is still a strong army for SR tailors

    Ignore if you disagree, that just my observation
     
  20. ho1joon

    ho1joon Active Member

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    My one is KRW 1.9M, it's approx. USD1650. and KRW 1.7M(≒USD1450) is the starting prcie of Spolverino, Canonico is in this range.
     

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