Another Kiton question

[MilanoStyle]

Guys, have look at this: http://www.imagehostplus.com/v2....50S.jpg All Brioni and Attolini suit jackets that I have seen so far have this type of hand stitchings inside of jackets (where a lining is sewen onto the fabric). Â Do ALL Kiton suit jackets use visible stitchings when sewing linings onto fabrics like the picture from above?

 

[mjs]

That photo is from a kiton jacket...

 

[Thracozaag]

Guys, have look at this: http://www.imagehostplus.com/v2....50S.jpg All Brioni and Attolini suit jackets that I have seen so far have this type of hand stitchings inside of jackets (where a lining is sewen onto the fabric). Â Do ALL Kiton suit jackets use visible stitchings when sewing linings onto fabrics like the picture from above?

yes. koji

 

[MilanoStyle]

Koji, This is strange. Most of pictures of Kiton suit jackets that I see on eBay, they appear to me that the stitchings are not visible. one example: http://www.stilmacher.com/bilder/kiton_s180s_label.jpg Any comment?

 

[Thracozaag]

I see it on the top half of the lining (above the pocket), but not below--that is odd.

koji

 

[MilanoStyle]

More example. these ones show pick stitchings clearly: http://i15.ebayimg.com/01/i/04/02/69/1f_3.JPG http://i17.ebayimg.com/02/i/03/cd/c8/e0_1_b.JPG http://i14.ebayimg.com/03/i/04/0d/9e/d1_3.JPG these ones do not (no visible bumps from pick stitchings on the seam): http://www.stilmacher.com/bilder/kit...inen_label.jpg http://www.krawattenprofi.de/autoimg...in180s44RL.jpg http://www.stilmacher.com/bilder/kiton_killer_label.jpg Since the pick stitching inside Kiton jacket is the one of traits of authentic Kiton, hence, can I say that the ones that do not have visible pick stitchings are fake ones?

 

[kabert]

You might want to send the Ebay seller(s) a "just curious" email that, in your experience, all Kiton jackets you've ever seen have x/y/z characteristics and you noticed this jacket does not; and could he please explain.  All of these sellers I assume have "guarantees of authenticity" but who knows what that's really worth.  Stilmacher, by the way, seems to be a high-level seller with great feedback, so I'd be very surprised to learn that he is selling fake stuff.  Finally, I've never heard of fake Kiton; not that it's not out there, but the quality level is so high in Kiton that I imagine most people intent of doing fakes would take an easier and cheaper path.

Edit: I also think it's quite possible that the items Kiton makes for the US market are made with different features, such as more visible stitching. The EBay sellers you have noted with Kitons that have less visible stitching I think are selling non-US-market items.

 

[Mark Seitelman]

The Kiton pick stitching that has been illustrated is all done by machine. This is typical of many high end RTW/MTM Italian lines.

Real, hand sewn lining has irregularly spaced stitches. Only some bespoke tailors hand sew the linings.

I would guess that RTW/MTM makers do not use hand stitching because much labor would be wasted by taking apart and re-sewing the lining during alterations. I would assume that bespoke tailors would use hand sewing because most of the coat's structure has been set before the addition of the lining, the last step in the process.

I personally do not like machine stitching that is made to look like hand pick stitching. IMHO it looks phony. It is the equivalent of thermography instead of genuine engraving. I view the machine stitching as a short-cut selling point so that customers think that they are getting hand stitching.

BTW, the hand-sewn lining is just a selling point or nice extra which adds little to the look, longevity, and comfort of the garment. I have had bespoke with both the hand sewn linings and with machine sewn ones (with no visible picking) from the same maker. Unless it matters to you, it doesn't make much of a difference. However, a real, hand sewn lining looks much better than a machine picked one.

I personally prefer either the real thing or nothing.

I don't think that the presence or absence of the stitching should guide you in your purchases.

Cheers.

 

[MilanoStyle]

Son of Brummell,

thanks for your comment.
I personally would not care about pick stitchings. But what I do care is authenticity of an item. If all Kiton jackets have their linings sewen with pick stitchings then it would be one of the check lists that I would use to determin the authenticity of Kiton suit.

I would imagine Kiton would hand pick stitch the linings as Brioni and Attolini's do.

 

[Thracozaag]

To echo the sentiments above, faking a Kiton suit would simply be more trouble than it's worth.

koji

 

[sartoriale]

I would guess that RTW/MTM makers do not use hand stitching because much labor would be wasted by taking apart and re-sewing the lining during alterations

That is true in most cases, although, the Borrelli suits have hand-stitched lining and more hand work, than any ready to wear suits I have seen, including Kiton. According to Borrelli, it takes them 3 hurs to do the lining, they also add pleats and hand embroidered tabs. Auctions (Borrelli suit pictures)