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another "critique this suit" on me thread...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by cpac, May 9, 2005.

  1. Brian SD

    Brian SD Moderator

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    I think it looks really great, except for the vent opening in the back. Is it the wind? The waist doesn't look too tight for me.
     


  2. rajesh06

    rajesh06 Senior member

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    I abide by Flusser's rule that attire should draw attention to one's face. With your height, I think the top button on a two button is just too far in distance from your face. This shows too much shirt and the viewer ends up focused somehwere between your chest and neck rather than your face.

    Again - I am a relative newbie at these things - but I'm trying to learn.
     


  3. Charley

    Charley Senior member

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    Yes, I think that is exactly right.

    The taper into the vertical should begin at least and inch, or maybe two, more into the hem of the jacket. Without that taper at the bottome, it has the apperance of a wrapped pole.

    Further, although I'm much smaller, I'm particularly conscious of the gap at the vent. You seem to have the gap. Get the tailor to let the side and back seams out enough to allow the rear vent to hang straight. That may also help the skirt problem. But looking at the lines of it, I believe it will need to be cut a bit to get it where I would want it.

    Not to worry.

    The best thing about buying these thing half way cheap is that you can afford to worry a tailor to death and still be in it for a very good cost. Just be sure you like the fabric before you begin the project of making it fit exactly as you want.
     


  4. cpac

    cpac Senior member

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    (naturlaut @ May 10 2005,17:14) The fronts are too closed, I think. Â It makes your upper body look bigger and bulkier. Â I think the colour is great for summer, though.
    Yes, I think that is exactly right. The taper into the vertical should begin at least and inch, or maybe two, more into the hem of the jacket. Â Without that taper at the bottome, it has the apperance of a wrapped pole.
    I'm afraid I'm getting a bit lost in the terminology here (and the glossary thread didn't help). What exactly is meant by the "fronts" here? Also, thank you rajesh for explaining your rationale - I think you're very likely right, and hopefully I'll be able to post pics soon of the other suit I picked up at the sale (which I think fits a fair bit better, and overal "suits me" better... Thank you all for the posts - I really am learning about more things to look for in fit, and greatly appreciate you all taking the time to post.
     


  5. Hartmann

    Hartmann Senior member

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    The lapels look a little too flat for my taste... have they been pressed?

    The only two areas of concern are the rear vent and the sleeve length (both of which, alas, I have problems with as well).

    All in all a superb purchase, enjoy it.

    Cheers.
     


  6. Matt

    Matt ex-m@Triate

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    (cpac @ May 10 2005,10:07) Finally, rajesh - is there any particular reason you think a higher button stance would work better? (I'm curious, because I think you're right - I generally prefer a 3 button, ventless jacket, but I wasn't sure if it really looked better or not, and what made that the case - I should post pics in one of my other suits).
    I abide by Flusser's rule that attire should draw attention to one's face. With your height, I think the top button on a two button is just too far in distance from your face. This shows too much shirt and the viewer ends up focused somehwere between your chest and neck rather than your face. Again - I am a relative newbie at these things - but I'm trying to learn.
    damned if you do and damned if you dont on that though. for every person who says "shows too much shirt" there will be one who says a higher button stance shows too much cloth across the chest
     


  7. cpac

    cpac Senior member

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    no the lapels have not been pressed.

    Sleeves too long for your taste?  (I could have gone with maybe 1/4 inch shorter, but I'm pretty happy with where they are)

    Oh and, since nobody has answered yet, what precisely is meant by a "front" in the above comments?  (As in, the "fronts" are too closed)
     


  8. bch

    bch Senior member

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    I think it means that the coat, below the fastened button, falls too vertically and is closed, rather than slightly outwardly swept or "open."
     


  9. cpac

    cpac Senior member

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    ah - now things make sense.

    Thank you.
     


  10. Keith T

    Keith T TWAT Master.

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    Kudos for posting pics. I would think the sleeve length is close enough to not want to shorten them further. I would be interested to see a 3-button suit on you, given your height, but I like the 2 well enough. Also like the color.

    Again, I get to say that one of our forum members looks better in a suit than 90% of the other guys out there. The recommendations given here are usually given in the spirit of "a continual pursuit of perfection."
     


  11. cpac

    cpac Senior member

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    I've now got picks of me in my other two suits. Â Both are 3 button. Â The brown one's the other one I picked up at the Paul Stuart sale (double vented), the black one (gasp. it's black) is a ventless Nordstrom/Joseph Abboud. I'd love comments/critiques on these as well -- especially from those that thought (as I think) that three button might be better on me. http://homepage.mac.com/cpac/PhotoAlbum23.html
     


  12. esvoboda

    esvoboda Well-Known Member

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    It appears that you have a tendency to lean a bit to your right or your shoulder naturally slopes more on your right side. Your right hand hangs down further than your left. I'm having a little trouble identifying if it's just your arm length or also your shoulder but there's something that needs to be compensated for. Or maybe it's just that you're standing unnaturally because you are posing for the camera. This issue is consistent in all three suits. You show less cuff on your left than your right. Also, I think showing more cuff would be a good idea especially on that black suit.

    I like you in that light blue suit. I think if you toned down the contrast between the white shirt and the dark tie, it would deal with what some are seeing in that area. My first thought is a lighter tie. You've got fair features and my eye goes for your chest rather than your face.

    If you can lighten the photos of the black suit it would be easier to see the details. Also, the photos of the brown and black suits were taken from a low camera angle with a fairly wide angle lens. That exaggerates the width of your hips and the skirt of the jacket and makes it more difficult to critique. I'd try to shoot the photos from about chest level in the future.

    I'm simply a layman so take my comments with a grain of salt. This is educational for me and I enjoy reading the various opinions from others.
     


  13. scnupe7

    scnupe7 Senior member

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    I was thinking the same thing. Maybe that's why it may look a little tight in the chest to some.
     


  14. cpac

    cpac Senior member

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    thanks for the comments so far. Yes, I believe my shoulders are of different heights - by about 1/2 inch or so, which (as you've pointed out) can cause some issues.

    And yes, I opologize for the picture angle on the second two suits - best I could do at the time.

    Any thoughts from those that don't post on the weekends?
     


  15. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    I think the brown suit looks the sharpest on you. I would try to work more with earth tones. They suit you best. A dark olive suit or sportcoat might be a good next choice.
     


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