another "critique this suit" on me thread...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by cpac, May 9, 2005.

  1. cpac

    cpac Senior member

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    Here's one of the two suits I picked up at the Paul Stuart sale. Â Close up it's a black and white herringbone, with blue threads running in stripes, but overall, as the pictures suggest, it's grey. I'm looking for critique of fit, and of style for my body type (6'5"/220). Â My current criticism is that I think the jacket is about a half-inch too small (44XL should have been 45XL and maybe taken in a bit) and therefore pulls the shoulders back in a slightly odd way. I'm overall fairly pleased with the suit, but want critique and suggestion on fit and style as I plan on spending a bit more on my next suit (a standard navy or charcoal, possibly from Mr. Ned, possibly from BB's golden fleece MTM, possibly HF MTM). Thank you in advance... All the pics are visible here: http://homepage.mac.com/cpac/PhotoAlbum22.html [EDIT] I've now got picks of me in my other two suits. Â Both are 3 button. Â The brown one's the other one I picked up at the Paul Stuart sale (double vented), the black one (gasp. it's black) is a ventless Nordstrom/Joseph Abboud. I'd love comments/critiques on these as well -- especially from those that thought (as I think) that three button might be better on me. http://homepage.mac.com/cpac/PhotoAlbum23.html [/EDIT]
     


  2. NoVaguy

    NoVaguy Senior member

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    The lines on the suit look rather clean.

    going up an inch might be a little more comfortable. It does look slightly tight, but nothing too major. Very good looking suit.
     


  3. philosophe

    philosophe Senior member

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    The clean lines of the suit look good on you, but I agree that the jacket looks just a hair tight across the shoulders. This is preferable to the other extreme (boxy and wide), but how does the jacket feel? Also, are the pants just a tiny bit long? I can't quite tell from the pictures.
     


  4. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looks a bit tighter across the chest than it has to be, but I like room there. YMMV.

    For such a clean jacket, the trouser cuffs are a bit mussed. Perhaps take them up a bit?
     


  5. NoVaguy

    NoVaguy Senior member

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    yeah, maybe take up the pants a little bit, or angle them a little more (i.e., shorter in the front than in the back) so that the lines of the pants are as clean as the jacket...

    still, very nice.
     


  6. cpac

    cpac Senior member

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    w/r/t the pants - they are side-tabbed (my first pair, so I'm still figuring out exactly how to wear them), and this was after a rather large, celebratory lunch, and so I think they were sitting a bit strangely on me in the pictures. Normally they do hang a bit higher - but I definitely see what you both are saying...

    thank you for the comments so far (I welcome more.).
     


  7. rajesh06

    rajesh06 Senior member

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    I am no expert - but I think a suit with a higher button stance would complement your physique better.
     


  8. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    Those are great pictures. I don't know why, but I like them. Especially this one: [​IMG] Anyway, it's tight at the level of the lower button and below, pulling the vent open in back. Also, you seem to sort of lean back. It could just be for the pictures, since people often do that. Is that your natural posture?
     


  9. discostu004

    discostu004 Affiliate vendor

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    i can't tell, but are you holding your abs tight? i always try to keep my posture (stomach area) like you're walking on the beach and don't want to look flabby, so you hold your stomach taut, and it makes a big difference
     


  10. Matt

    Matt [email protected]

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    do you always stand like that? seems like you leaning a long way back
     


  11. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    It looks like it's too small in the hips, is why. Can a tailor let out an off-the-rack suit at all there?
     


  12. cpac

    cpac Senior member

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    to answer a few questions that have come up:

    Yes, I think I was leaning back slightly, but not as much as it appears from the pictures (and so it's close, but not quite, my "natural" posture). I was not tighenting my abs at all I'm sure, so that might help a bit (and not taking the picture after a huge lunch could help as well).

    As for whether the lower part of the jacket could be let out a bit, I'm not sure - it hasn't been altered (except for finishing the sleeves) from its OTR state. Does Paul Stuart usually leave enough extra fabric in there to let it out a bit?

    Finally, rajesh - is there any particular reason you think a higher button stance would work better? (I'm curious, because I think you're right - I generally prefer a 3 button, ventless jacket, but I wasn't sure if it really looked better or not, and what made that the case - I should post pics in one of my other suits).

    Keep the comments coming.
     


  13. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    It appears that the left sleeve is just a touch longer than the right.
     


  14. cpac

    cpac Senior member

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    since the sleeves were never altered from the RTW original (they just sewed on the buttons and made real button-holes), my guess is that the difference it either due to how I'm standing in those pictures, or to the fact that I don't have symmetrical shoulders.
     


  15. naturlaut

    naturlaut Senior member

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    The fronts are too closed, I think. It makes your upper body look bigger and bulkier. I think the colour is great for summer, though.
     


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