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Another Critique My Jantzen Thread!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by morsem, Mar 26, 2006.

  1. morsem

    morsem Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Hello World!

    Yes, it is time for another famous CMJ thread, this time with my smiling mug.

    Please be brutal, your comments will help me with my next order.

    Notes about this shirt...

    Shirt has been laundered three times now, and the fabric is pretty stiff but soft. I picked the fabric knowing that this would be a test shirt.

    I am highly satisfied with the workmanship in the shirt, the buttons are fantastic as is the pattern matching.

    The fit is pretty good I think, but could use some adjustments. The sleeve pools a little at the cuff, but it is ok because when I wear a jacket it shows cuff no matter my arm position. Since the cuff is the correct size, the cuff does not move away from my wrist.

    I am not so sure about the body of the shirt, so I will wait for comments. I tried to get a fitted, but not tight shirt body.

    I requested a higher armhole along with tighter sleeves. Ricky delivered and I love the sleeve fit and armhole height. I also requested seven buttons on the shirt front not including the collar button. He also provided this as well.

    I am also unsure about the fit of the yoke. I don't know if it is too wide or too narrow, please advise.

    I would really appreciate comments most specifically about the suitability of the collar I chose for my face shape. I think it looks pretty good, but if you think I should increase or decrease the spread or make the points shorter or longer or make the collar height higher or lower, please let me know!

    Also, I chose the french cuffs to be fairly small, but I don't think it is so bad in proportion to my body. Comments?

    Thank you all for being such a wonderful community. I have learned so much here it is unbelievable!

    Regards,

    Morsem

    p.s. first time posting pics so I hope this works, if not I'll fix it asap

    http://img82.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf07617at.jpg
    http://img240.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf07621av.jpg
    http://img82.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf07631ye.jpg
    http://img240.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scf07643ww.jpg
     
  2. denning

    denning Senior member

    Messages:
    1,292
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2005
    Location:
    Canada
    It looks pretty darn good for a first try. The first thing that comes to mind looking at it is the shoulders. The shoulder seam seems to be haning off the the shoulders. I would reduce that measurement as well as a touch in the waist. The extra length in the sleeves does not really bother me as you won't see it with a jacket on.

    Welcome to the Jantzen ride.
     
  3. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,336
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    Morsem

    The yoke is way too big.At least by 1".
    You also have a right low shoulder.

    There are some other minor details, but It would be hard for me to jusdge with out seeing you in person.

    I should start charging for this service.

    Carl

    www.cego.com
     
  4. jmatt

    jmatt Senior member

    Messages:
    295
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
    You're going to get a lot of advice. First, remember that compared to any shirt you've ever bought, I'll bet that's already the best fitting shirt you've ever owned.

    Sleeve length looks great.
    Shoulders - way too big. I'd drop an inch per side.
    Your shoulders are slightly more sloped than the shirt cut. Show Ricky these pictures.
    You can take size out of the chest and the waist - but to me that's a matter of preference and how loose you want the fit. Those may already be perfect depending on your desire.
     
  5. morsem

    morsem Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Thanks for the advice everyone!

    I would say that I agree with everything that has been said so far. It looks like the main problems are in the yoke.

    I can have Ricky take in the sides at the waist, but it will never be sculpted as well as if I had the shirt made bespoke. Another option would be to take the shirt to an alterations place and have the side seams pinned to perfection. The armscyes also will never be perfect but what can you do.

    Having gone through all this effort, I wish I had the budget to afford a bespoke service.

    About the shoulder slope and low shoulder, it's funny, because I did specify that I have sloping shoulders, but there is also an option for very sloping shoulders. Perhaps I should select that option, but I will send Ricky these pictures and let him decide. Also, for the low shoulder, I actually specified a 1/2 inch left low shoulder, but I see that Shirtmaven says that I have a right low shoulder!

    FWIW, I cannot find any measurement in the shirt that would indicate any asymetry in the cut of the shirt, meaning that I don't think it was cut with a low shoulder as specified.

    Also, I specified that I have 1/2 inch of stoop in my posture, as I have had many tailors tell me that in MTM programs in the past. I do not know if this was done in the shirt.

    Additionally, I sent Ricky a few pictures of myself in a T-shirt so that he could see my posture before I had the shirt made. I don't know how much that was incorporated into the final order.

    Overall I am very satisfied though, and it is correct to say that this is so far the best fitting shirt I own.

    Thank you everyone, and I hope to get more comments!
     
  6. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,336
    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2003
    Location:
    NYC
    I did not notice a stoop in your posture.But the correction was made for it. Notice the ripple below where the yoke is joined to the back. There is too much fabric. It was cut to allow for the stoop posture though it is not needed.

    Carl.

    www.cego.com
     
  7. morsem

    morsem Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    You are right, I see the wrinkle you are talking about!

    I can't fault Ricky for that one, it is just my bad directions.

    This demonstrates the problems with self measurement I think.

    Please, more criticisms...
     
  8. Etienne

    Etienne Senior member

    Messages:
    4,666
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Paris
    I would really appreciate comments most specifically about the suitability of the collar I chose for my face shape. I think it looks pretty good, but if you think I should increase or decrease the spread or make the points shorter or longer or make the collar height higher or lower, please let me know!
    I quite like the collar, but I would lengthen the points just a tad. Just an opinion, of course.

    What fabric did you choose? I like it.
     
  9. morsem

    morsem Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Thanks for the input!

    The fabric I chose is the following...

    JKT #0085, Light Lilac 1 cm Herringbone,
    100's, 2 Ply,
    100% Italian Cotton.
    (HKD$310)

    I must say it is nice, a little on the heavy side though. It has a soft surface, but is a little stiff I think due to the weight of the cotton.

    Different than anything I have ever had before.

    I agree with everything said so far about the fit, and I love the comments I have gotten.

    I see the "frogging" on the sleeve placket, and I know a button here would solve the problem, but I would rather have the shirt fit so well that it doesn't do this to begin with!

    Thanks,

    Morsem
     
  10. Earthmover

    Earthmover Senior member

    Messages:
    586
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2005
    Location:
    Upper West Side
    Thanks for the input!

    The fabric I chose is the following...

    JKT #0085, Light Lilac 1 cm Herringbone,
    100's, 2 Ply,
    100% Italian Cotton.
    (HKD$310)

    I must say it is nice, a little on the heavy side though. It has a soft surface, but is a little stiff I think due to the weight of the cotton.


    I got this as well, with french cuffs. I was very surprised at how heavy the cotton was, although it was and remains very soft to the touch. It's definitely not for the summer, although the color's right for it.
     
  11. billiebob

    billiebob Senior member

    Messages:
    707
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2005
    This is the second Jantzen in a week I've seen with a yoke about 2 inches too big. What's going on? Isn't there a bone to bone shoulder measurement on the online order form?
     

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