Anglo-Italian

[RickyTakhar]

They are very similar in terms of fabric and style. Probably made by LA lab as well but with plastic buttons. I doubt that Fralbo (their shirting manufacturer) makes them.

How does the button down hold up under tailoring?

There's been a spike in these kind of polos recently, to be worn with tailoring.

U've got Luca Avitabile, shibumi, angloitalian, informale. And at the higher end g-inglese and marol.

 

[solaro23]

How does the button down hold up under tailoring?

There's been a spike in these kind of polos recently, to be worn with tailoring.

U've got Luca Avitabile, shibumi, angloitalian, informale. And at the higher end g-inglese and marol.

You omit the inevitable offering from Herr Krafty in a washed azure to remind him of the skies above his provencale hovel post lockdown.

I digress. The LA collars are high with or without the buttoning and hold up well under a sports jacket. For my two cents, I think that navy is the only colour worth buying so that you can wear the hell out of it.

 

[coldbrew]

You omit the inevitable offering from Herr Krafty in a washed azure to remind him of the skies above his provencale hovel post lockdown.

I digress. The LA collars are high with or without the buttoning and hold up well under a sports jacket. For my two cents, I think that navy is the only colour worth buying so that you can wear the hell out of it.

green is also very versatile, especially after it fades.

 

[RickyTakhar]

green is also very versatile, especially after it fades.

I've got the blue and brown, had for around 2 years and they've faded nicely.

Looking to add green soon, any of you guys tried the one piece collar?

 

[whorishconsumer]

Wrecked indeed. 37.5% (Into the US).

I have been told that purchases under $800 are not subject to duty, but cannot yet confirm this through experience.

But you'll still get wrecked on the new 25% import tax?

As I understand, the 25% tax pertains to clothing Made in UK. I posted about it in the Customs and Duties thread: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...tions-and-stories-thread.328145/post-10165152

I recently purchased some Made In UK cashmere from a Swiss shop (Frans Boone) for a total below $800 and did not receive a duties bill.

I’ll add that this is all tied up with competition with the EU over Airbus tax breaks and, as I understand, that matter is still being discussed (as Airbus is seeking relief). So I wouldn’t be surprised if no authority is as of yet enforcing this.

As for AI, are any part of their garments manufactured in UK? I think we’d be concerned with where the material was made, as opposed to tailoring.

37.5% seems excessively high. Where did you get that number from?

 

[whorishconsumer]

Also, any US stockists (or any stockists) for AI?

 

[solaro23]

Also, any US stockists (or any stockists) for AI?

Nope. Seen a few pieces on the bay recently though.

 

[BenMN]

37.5% seems excessively high. Where did you get that number from?

I agree. I purchased a number of items from Anglo-Italian, in excess of $800, and was shocked at the duty (? Pretty sure it was duty) required by DHL. This was maybe 8 months ago. Please do correct me if I'm using wrong terms.

I spent an hour or so doing research on this area that I know nothing about, and landed on some US government page about the harmonized trade tariff system or something like that. Every little thing that anyone would ever import is broken down into specifics. For example, "shoes, men's, leather upper, leather sole, " and so forth. And they all have a % attached.

I found a few of the more expensive items from my order (shoes, jackets, trousers), on this harmonized trade tariff website, and it said these were all import taxed (is that right?) at 37.5%, and this jived with my receipt and what DHL was asking for. So I paid the F***ers and moved on.

Now I think twice before ordering over $800. I like the OCBD. Previous poster is right, the polos have plastic buttons. I kinda want that navy linen DB jacket...

 

[whorishconsumer]

I agree. I purchased a number of items from Anglo-Italian, in excess of $800, and was shocked at the duty (? Pretty sure it was duty) required by DHL. This was maybe 8 months ago. Please do correct me if I'm using wrong terms.

I spent an hour or so doing research on this area that I know nothing about, and landed on some US government page about the harmonized trade tariff system or something like that. Every little thing that anyone would ever import is broken down into specifics. For example, "shoes, men's, leather upper, leather sole, " and so forth. And they all have a % attached.

I found a few of the more expensive items from my order (shoes, jackets, trousers), on this harmonized trade tariff website, and it said these were all import taxed (is that right?) at 37.5%, and this jived with my receipt and what DHL was asking for. So I paid the F***ers and moved on.

Now I think twice before ordering over $800. I like the OCBD. Previous poster is right, the polos have plastic buttons. I kinda want that navy linen DB jacket...

Damn. If it came from DHL, then that's legit. And, yes, that would be duties, although DHL probably added a service fee on top of that (for the effort of extorting money from you).

Looking at the harmonized tariff schedule, it looks like they have a whole bunch of loopholes and "other" categories taxed at 37.5%. No doubt your order fell through one of these loopholes.

It really does make it feel like a shakedown. I'm sorry you got hit with that. Not sure I can justify ordering overseas above $800 after seeing this.

Monadic nations forever.

 

[Konnor]

How are the OCBD compared to the ones from Permanent Style (if anyone is able to comment on it)?

 

[BenMN]

Damn. If it came from DHL, then that's legit. And, yes, that would be duties, although DHL probably added a service fee on top of that (for the effort of extorting money from you).

Looking at the harmonized tariff schedule, it looks like they have a whole bunch of loopholes and "other" categories taxed at 37.5%. No doubt your order fell through one of these loopholes.

It really does make it feel like a shakedown. I'm sorry you got hit with that. Not sure I can justify ordering overseas above $800 after seeing this.

Monadic nations forever.

Thanks for your consolation. It was ******.

To my recollection, though, I don't think DHL added any insult to injury. Maybe $5?

To be clear, and here is a maybe bigger problem... I specifically remember finding Italy (the country of manufacture), then "men's, jacket, tailored, wool" or whatever, on that harmonized tariff website. So while on the one hand it sucks to pay this additional $$ "above and beyond" the initial purchase price, wouldn't it also be the case that if I bought a similar made in Italy jacket from a US store then they have already incurred the same import cost and rolled that into their initial asking price? I hope that makes sense.

And if that is in fact the case, then we are talking about the psychology of knowing you're paying a boatload of tax versus being conveniently kept ignorant of it.

EDIT: in thinking about this more, perhaps I got that "country of origin" specific information by taking the harmonized taffiff #s and plugging them into something on a US Customs and Border Protection website. I don't remember, sorry. All I can surely say it's that I chased info down until I was absolutely satisfied that my made in Italy goods, coming into the US, were in fact subject to 37.5% duty. Then I stopped researching, and said never again will I buy from overseas. Then I wondered, well wait a second... and my question above started to formulate.

 

[solaro23]

How are the OCBD compared to the ones from Permanent Style (if anyone is able to comment on it)?

The Anglo ones are made by Fralbo but their oxford fabric isn't as good as the PS OCBD. The PS Oxford fabric is exclusive and made by Canclini - think a really robust oxford fabric which fades nicely, similar to the old school OCBDs of the 50s and 60s.

As you probably know, the OCBD from PS are made in a Naples lab under LA supervision. The collar and roll are better in my opinion and less exaggerated than the Anglo ones. Sizing is a little limited on the PS OCBD as opposed to Anglo. But in the end, it's all about the fabric, you want a OCBD to be a little loose and not too tailored.

 

[whorishconsumer]

Thanks for your consolation. It was ******.

To my recollection, though, I don't think DHL added any insult to injury. Maybe $5?

To be clear, and here is a maybe bigger problem... I specifically remember finding Italy (the country of manufacture), then "men's, jacket, tailored, wool" or whatever, on that harmonized tariff website. So while on the one hand it sucks to pay this additional $$ "above and beyond" the initial purchase price, wouldn't it also be the case that if I bought a similar made in Italy jacket from a US store then they have already incurred the same import cost and rolled that into their initial asking price? I hope that makes sense.

And if that is in fact the case, then we are talking about the psychology of knowing you're paying a boatload of tax versus being conveniently kept ignorant of it.

EDIT: in thinking about this more, perhaps I got that "country of origin" specific information by taking the harmonized taffiff #s and plugging them into something on a US Customs and Border Protection website. I don't remember, sorry. All I can surely say it's that I chased info down until I was absolutely satisfied that my made in Italy goods, coming into the US, were in fact subject to 37.5% duty. Then I stopped researching, and said never again will I buy from overseas. Then I wondered, well wait a second... and my question above started to formulate.

You are correct in that we as consumers in a globalized economy enabled by the Internet have been kept largely ignorant of the true cost of commerce. @dieworkwear has made that point elsewhere. Italist, which focuses in Italian brands, fashions themselves as an import service for just this reason. (I don’t like them, but this conversation does shine some empathy on them).

However, there are other considerations - namely wholesale vs. consumer cost - that would drive the cost down in a US brick and mortar, even if duties were baked into the cost. And I still find 37.5% exorbitant. I don’t think importers of UK-Made stuff would be complaining about a new 25% tax without mentioning a precedent of near-40%, which I haven’t seen.

 

[arakeinprogress]

A while back I posted about my Anglo-Italian made-to-measure suit. Those of you who read it know I wasn't completely happy with the fit.

Several helpful people here suggested alterations that could be made, but I was wary of turning it over to my local tailor who I feared might ruin some of the more intricate details of the suit.

I eventually made the decision to entrust my tailor with a few small alterations in the hopes of tidying up some of the fit issues. The alterations were done a while ago, but I just took photos recently, so I thought I'd share a few thoughts and the before/after photos.

You can read them here or at the original blog post, which includes the update and new before/after photos.

On the trousers, I had my tailor shorten the hem and widen the leg below the knee to a 7.5" opening.

On the jacket, I lowered the collar slightly to remove some rippling across my upper shoulders. Despite my hesitation, I'm pleased with these small alterations. The trousers in particular are quite excellent now.

If I work up the courage to take it back to the tailor, the sleeves could be picked up in the back just a bit and there's a little excess fabric in the back still. More complicated would be adjusting the jacket for my lower right shoulder.

Trouser front below

Trouser front after

Trouser side before

Trouser side after

Jacket back before

Jacket back after

 

[CorozoButton]

A while back I posted about my Anglo-Italian made-to-measure suit. Those of you who read it know I wasn't completely happy with the fit.

Several helpful people here suggested alterations that could be made, but I was wary of turning it over to my local tailor who I feared might ruin some of the more intricate details of the suit.

I eventually made the decision to entrust my tailor with a few small alterations in the hopes of tidying up some of the fit issues. The alterations were done a while ago, but I just took photos recently, so I thought I'd share a few thoughts and the before/after photos.

You can read them here or at the original blog post, which includes the update and new before/after photos.

On the trousers, I had my tailor shorten the hem and widen the leg below the knee to a 7.5" opening.

On the jacket, I lowered the collar slightly to remove some rippling across my upper shoulders. Despite my hesitation, I'm pleased with these small alterations. The trousers in particular are quite excellent now.

If I work up the courage to take it back to the tailor, the sleeves could be picked up in the back just a bit and there's a little excess fabric in the back still. More complicated would be adjusting the jacket for my lower right shoulder.

View attachment 1394648
Trouser front below

View attachment 1394649
Trouser front after

View attachment 1394655
Trouser side before

View attachment 1394656
Trouser side after

View attachment 1394657
Jacket back before

View attachment 1394658
Jacket back after

Those are great results!

So am I right in understanding that lowering the collar was all that was done to the jacket? It seems to have cleaned it up a lot.